Serpent 710
#7456
Well since no one answers my question in the engine forum although it has 53 views I will ask you guys.
"I normally use 30% from powermaster because thats what my LHS carries but now they got some 40% odonnel and I already bought it so what can I expect from going from 30% to 40%. Also how good is this engine I am planning on using it in my new NRS-RR12L5. Or should I stick with the 30% I havent opened it yet so I can always change it."
"I normally use 30% from powermaster because thats what my LHS carries but now they got some 40% odonnel and I already bought it so what can I expect from going from 30% to 40%. Also how good is this engine I am planning on using it in my new NRS-RR12L5. Or should I stick with the 30% I havent opened it yet so I can always change it."
#7457
Originally posted by rodrigo1508
Well since no one answers my question in the engine forum although it has 53 views I will ask you guys.
"I normally use 30% from powermaster because thats what my LHS carries but now they got some 40% odonnel and I already bought it so what can I expect from going from 30% to 40%. Also how good is this engine I am planning on using it in my new NRS-RR12L5. Or should I stick with the 30% I havent opened it yet so I can always change it."
Well since no one answers my question in the engine forum although it has 53 views I will ask you guys.
"I normally use 30% from powermaster because thats what my LHS carries but now they got some 40% odonnel and I already bought it so what can I expect from going from 30% to 40%. Also how good is this engine I am planning on using it in my new NRS-RR12L5. Or should I stick with the 30% I havent opened it yet so I can always change it."
#7458
Originally posted by rodrigo1508
Well since no one answers my question in the engine forum although it has 53 views I will ask you guys.
"I normally use 30% from powermaster because thats what my LHS carries but now they got some 40% odonnel and I already bought it so what can I expect from going from 30% to 40%. Also how good is this engine I am planning on using it in my new NRS-RR12L5. Or should I stick with the 30% I havent opened it yet so I can always change it."
Well since no one answers my question in the engine forum although it has 53 views I will ask you guys.
"I normally use 30% from powermaster because thats what my LHS carries but now they got some 40% odonnel and I already bought it so what can I expect from going from 30% to 40%. Also how good is this engine I am planning on using it in my new NRS-RR12L5. Or should I stick with the 30% I havent opened it yet so I can always change it."
#7459
Originally posted by rodrigo1508
Well since no one answers my question in the engine forum although it has 53 views I will ask you guys.
"I normally use 30% from powermaster because thats what my LHS carries but now they got some 40% odonnel and I already bought it so what can I expect from going from 30% to 40%. Also how good is this engine I am planning on using it in my new NRS-RR12L5. Or should I stick with the 30% I havent opened it yet so I can always change it."
Well since no one answers my question in the engine forum although it has 53 views I will ask you guys.
"I normally use 30% from powermaster because thats what my LHS carries but now they got some 40% odonnel and I already bought it so what can I expect from going from 30% to 40%. Also how good is this engine I am planning on using it in my new NRS-RR12L5. Or should I stick with the 30% I havent opened it yet so I can always change it."
With 40%, you need to add 0.1 mm copper shim to the stock 0.3 mm silver aluminum shim.
I can't remember but I read an article of XTreme RC magazine and they were comparing low and high nitro content fuel in terms of laptimes and their engine temperatures. One is when tuned properly and the other is when you do not. I'll dig it out and see.
#7460
Originally posted by SupermaxxRich
Well relatives came over and I didn't get anything done!
I was reading the FAQ page about how Julius describes how to set tweak for the front end only. I just don't quite get it?
Could someone explain to me how its done? Explain it like I am a 6 year old.
Well relatives came over and I didn't get anything done!
I was reading the FAQ page about how Julius describes how to set tweak for the front end only. I just don't quite get it?
Could someone explain to me how its done? Explain it like I am a 6 year old.
By following Julius' method, you will not have that problem anymore. Your droop remains at 0 (for example) even without or with the front sway bar connected.
#7461
Originally posted by rodrigo1508
Well since no one answers my question in the engine forum although it has 53 views I will ask you guys.
"I normally use 30% from powermaster because thats what my LHS carries but now they got some 40% odonnel and I already bought it so what can I expect from going from 30% to 40%. Also how good is this engine I am planning on using it in my new NRS-RR12L5. Or should I stick with the 30% I havent opened it yet so I can always change it."
Well since no one answers my question in the engine forum although it has 53 views I will ask you guys.
"I normally use 30% from powermaster because thats what my LHS carries but now they got some 40% odonnel and I already bought it so what can I expect from going from 30% to 40%. Also how good is this engine I am planning on using it in my new NRS-RR12L5. Or should I stick with the 30% I havent opened it yet so I can always change it."
#7462
Originally posted by InitialD
I would say stick with 30%. No reason to go with 40% nitro. More wear and tear. Of course the car goes faster when tuned right.
With 40%, you need to add 0.1 mm copper shim to the stock 0.3 mm silver aluminum shim.
I can't remember but I read an article of XTreme RC magazine and they were comparing low and high nitro content fuel in terms of laptimes and their engine temperatures. One is when tuned properly and the other is when you do not. I'll dig it out and see.
I would say stick with 30%. No reason to go with 40% nitro. More wear and tear. Of course the car goes faster when tuned right.
With 40%, you need to add 0.1 mm copper shim to the stock 0.3 mm silver aluminum shim.
I can't remember but I read an article of XTreme RC magazine and they were comparing low and high nitro content fuel in terms of laptimes and their engine temperatures. One is when tuned properly and the other is when you do not. I'll dig it out and see.
Last edited by BaxterC; 04-01-2004 at 11:00 PM.
#7463
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
I would personally stick with what you have. There is no major power gain from going to 40% from 30%.
I would personally stick with what you have. There is no major power gain from going to 40% from 30%.
Of course this accelerates wear and tear too.Like Marcos mentioned, you just need to tune the engine right with the fuel you are going to use which means going to colder plug or adding shims under the combustion chamber.
But I agree that for weekend to weekend club racing, no point going to 40% at the expense of higher wear and tear.
#7464
Originally posted by InitialD
You will see power gain going from 30% to 40% fuel. Else, Mike Swauger would not have used it !
Of course this accelerates wear and tear too.
Like Marcos mentioned, you just need to tune the engine right with the fuel you are going to use which means going to colder plug or adding shims under the combustion chamber.
But I agree that for weekend to weekend club racing, no point going to 40% at the expense of higher wear and tear.
You will see power gain going from 30% to 40% fuel. Else, Mike Swauger would not have used it !
Of course this accelerates wear and tear too.Like Marcos mentioned, you just need to tune the engine right with the fuel you are going to use which means going to colder plug or adding shims under the combustion chamber.
But I agree that for weekend to weekend club racing, no point going to 40% at the expense of higher wear and tear.
#7465
Originally posted by InitialD
You will see power gain going from 30% to 40% fuel. Else, Mike Swauger would not have used it !
Of course this accelerates wear and tear too.
Like Marcos mentioned, you just need to tune the engine right with the fuel you are going to use which means going to colder plug or adding shims under the combustion chamber.
But I agree that for weekend to weekend club racing, no point going to 40% at the expense of higher wear and tear.
You will see power gain going from 30% to 40% fuel. Else, Mike Swauger would not have used it !
Of course this accelerates wear and tear too.Like Marcos mentioned, you just need to tune the engine right with the fuel you are going to use which means going to colder plug or adding shims under the combustion chamber.
But I agree that for weekend to weekend club racing, no point going to 40% at the expense of higher wear and tear.
#7466
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
Add in air temp and humidity variables and Ill prove you wrong. Read back a few pages to the discussion we had on this already.
Add in air temp and humidity variables and Ill prove you wrong. Read back a few pages to the discussion we had on this already.
Perhaps Dennis can come in and clarify. Else, i'll just go back and refer to the XTreme RC magazine article.
#7467
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
Add in air temp and humidity variables and Ill prove you wrong. Read back a few pages to the discussion we had on this already. Increasing nitro content only works if you have the temperature to make use of it. If the air temperature drops you can make more power from 20% than you can from 40%. Only reason Mike used 60% in Florida was because it was a real scorcher and the extra nitro became an advantage.
Add in air temp and humidity variables and Ill prove you wrong. Read back a few pages to the discussion we had on this already. Increasing nitro content only works if you have the temperature to make use of it. If the air temperature drops you can make more power from 20% than you can from 40%. Only reason Mike used 60% in Florida was because it was a real scorcher and the extra nitro became an advantage.
#7468
Originally posted by markp27
Didn't consider it - what's the deal on it?
I wanted to go for a Novamega due to the avalability of spares at my LHS - don't think he has JP engines.
Didn't consider it - what's the deal on it?
I wanted to go for a Novamega due to the avalability of spares at my LHS - don't think he has JP engines.
#7469
I know that engine its not legal but at my track its a You have to do what ever you can to your car to win kind of thing so it doesnt really matter.
I will go to the hobby shop tomorrow and change it.
Also my LHS doesnt have all the 710 parts yet but they do have all the 705 ones and I was wondering if the wheel hubs from the 705 fit the 710 because I just had a fight with one of them and I won so now I need a new one.
I will go to the hobby shop tomorrow and change it.
Also my LHS doesnt have all the 710 parts yet but they do have all the 705 ones and I was wondering if the wheel hubs from the 705 fit the 710 because I just had a fight with one of them and I won so now I need a new one.
#7470
Originally posted by InitialD
Where did we discuss this? When we compare both fuels, we take into account that both fuels would be tested in the environment.
Perhaps Dennis can come in and clarify. Else, i'll just go back and refer to the XTreme RC magazine article.
Where did we discuss this? When we compare both fuels, we take into account that both fuels would be tested in the environment.
Perhaps Dennis can come in and clarify. Else, i'll just go back and refer to the XTreme RC magazine article.



