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Old 03-22-2004, 11:35 AM   #6601
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Saw a youngster ( aged 9 ) racing the 710 at our clubrace last sunday. He was driving 17 sec laps with it while I was trying to stay on the track with my 950r ( first time out this year ) doing low 18 sec laps. Our track is the fastest in Holland the big guys ( 1/8 th ) run about 13,5 sec. Trackrecord is 22 laps in 5.05.

He was driving stock setup on his 710 and it was really impressive what he did with the car even when some rain came down and the grip was very low. The car looked awesome, very stable and great acceleration.

Still in doubt of also buying a 710, maybe later this year.
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Old 03-22-2004, 01:21 PM   #6602
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Originally posted by Pyramid
Watch out for 3rd Racing products.. give a lot of sense of 'blings' to the car. No laydown conversion, but that SSG graphites are very nice touch. Will soon built the 3rd car right after upcoming National EP race early next month.
This is just me. But I am not very fond of 3Racing products. They don't have very good quality.

Compared to other option houses such as Five Stars, SQUARE, and Kawahara, 3Racing quality is a bit behind.
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Old 03-22-2004, 01:22 PM   #6603
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however, they are cheaper in price

I guess the old saying applies, "you get what you paid for"
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Old 03-22-2004, 01:50 PM   #6604
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Hi group, I am a newbie to nitro RC cars and just bought my first nitro kit a week ago (710). I have a couple of questions which may seem trivial, so excuse my lack of knowledge. I have an OS 12TR-T motor and am just trying to finish off the assembly correctly now before I run the car.

1) the spacing between the pinion gears (along the axis) and the spacing between the spur gears is quite different - is this correct or did I put the spur gears together wrong? I put in the spacer between the 2 pioion gears, but it still looks like it could use an additional 3-4mm. If this is correct, which gears should line up - the low gear set or the high gear set or in between?

2) I could not get the clutch gap to get to .7mm, even with a .3mm shim on the crank, the gap is at about .4mm, I have done the clutch mod that cuts the weights down and takes them off the posts.

3) The front belt appears to be quite slack in the default cam position - about 4mm deflection in the middle - is this too loose?

Thanks, There's a great wealth of knowledge here, I hope someone can help me out. I'll let you know how my first outing goes when the weather turns around here in a couple of weeks (hopefully!)
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Old 03-22-2004, 02:01 PM   #6605
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Quote:
) I could not get the clutch gap to get to .7mm, even with a .3mm shim on the crank, the gap is at about .4mm, I have done the clutch mod that cuts the weights down and takes them off the posts.
Add shims behing the flywheel in addition to the one 5mm that the book tell you to add. if you need an 1mm before you have 7mm then add a 1mm on top of the 5mm shim againts the engine bearing.
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Old 03-22-2004, 02:21 PM   #6606
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Originally posted by MrChan
Julius,

I have just ran my 710 for 1st time at my local track. The car was quite impressive about performance and gearing.

But I'm having a problem with Traction Roll that I was using 37 , 59-60mm and some of my friends are usiing 42 and even 45, We still had the traction roll at some highspeed corner with red or blue spring. What we should do to solve the problem? raise up the rear roll center ? play with small tire ?

Any idea ?
try raising the front roll center(lowering the upper mounts-angling the arms) this should avoid the traction roll. I run the stock set-up on my 710 with the raised roll center and i haven't traction roll yet , even when i used 35 shore tires front and rear. The track that i run on is a smooth asphalt with alot of traction. Try it and see.
(this is the track)
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Old 03-22-2004, 02:23 PM   #6607
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
Add shims behing the flywheel in addition to the one 5mm that the book tell you to add. if you need an 1mm before you have 7mm then add a 1mm on top of the 5mm shim againts the engine bearing.
how is your 710 working out?



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Old 03-22-2004, 02:28 PM   #6608
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Thumbs up Marco, Initial D

It's working pretty good now, I raced it. I am going to mod the clutch weights tonight and I will also get the 835 two speed shoes. bc the car was not shifting at all.

more.. about my first race in a few minutes
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Old 03-22-2004, 02:33 PM   #6609
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Default Re: Marco, Initial D

Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
It's working pretty good now, I raced it. I am going to mod the clutch weights tonight and I will also get the 835 two speed shoes. bc the car was not shifting at all.

more.. about my first race in a few minutes
was it starting in second gear?or was shifting too fast too early to feel it ? i had that problem with my impulse pro and the 2 speed was too loose.
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Old 03-22-2004, 02:42 PM   #6610
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I dont think it was shifting. I didnt feel it at all, and a friend standing on the straght way (along the side) told me my car was not shifting. The clutch is set stock right now,so maybe I need to losen it up
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Old 03-22-2004, 03:24 PM   #6611
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Originally posted by Julius
As is the case the other way round
Most people are in this for enjoyment. So naturally you go with what gives most enjoyment. Most cars nowadays are good. Each have their particular strong and weak points. In the end it's all about what combo works best.

If you have lots of drivers doing well with a particular car, it's hard to keep inventing all yourself and switching to something you've seen to work is often the easier solution. If that is a way to enjoy the hobby more, all the better.
if you are a Serpent fan and you want to be update
its hard sometimes for customers that there is every year a update ore new kit
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Old 03-22-2004, 03:40 PM   #6612
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Hello all. I've lurked the thread a bit but haven't seen a list of the most commonly broken parts. Does anyone have a listing with part numbers? I just bought a 710 and would like a preliminary list of what to stock in my kit. Can't wait to get this car on a track.

Thanks
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Old 03-22-2004, 03:41 PM   #6613
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
I dont think it was shifting. I didnt feel it at all, and a friend standing on the straght way (along the side) told me my car was not shifting. The clutch is set stock right now,so maybe I need to losen it up
good luck , let me know how your mod works!
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Old 03-22-2004, 04:12 PM   #6614
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Quote:
Originally posted by Profoxcg
Add shims behing the flywheel in addition to the one 5mm that the book tell you to add. if you need an 1mm before you have 7mm then add a 1mm on top of the 5mm shim againts the engine bearing.
Thanks for your reply, I guess I wasn't clear on the exact problem. I had too small endplay (.4mm) using the instructions. Adding shims between the flywheel and the motor reduces the endplay - in my case the endplay was already too small so you need to remove the .5mm shim and replace it with a smaller one. I was able to get the endplay to .61mm by using the .30mm shim instead of the .50mm shim between the flywheel and the motor. I saw other people have the same problem as this. It's not clear in the instructions about this point, I'm wondering how critical the endplay is as I've seen some people here say that .4mm is OK, so is .4 - .7mm a good range, or do you just have to try it on the track?
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Old 03-22-2004, 04:47 PM   #6615
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Quote:
Originally posted by ChrisF
Hello all. I've lurked the thread a bit but haven't seen a list of the most commonly broken parts. Does anyone have a listing with part numbers? I just bought a 710 and would like a preliminary list of what to stock in my kit. Can't wait to get this car on a track.

Thanks
Chris,

Lower and upper bumper plates -802206/7

Front arms Lower and Upper you have to have, same for the rear.

Rear shock tower, ppl like to brake that one, you need one in your toolbox.

That's the basic and what you normally brake, although you can get creative and bust unusual bits also

Good luck with your machine

PS: you can add some body posts

Last edited by cox049; 03-22-2004 at 04:56 PM.
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