InitialD

Cool ! From the pics, I actually thought you over ran the car (too much fun? ) that you broke stuff...

InitialD

Yes, the new rear shock towers are more sturdy. 3.5 mm thick.

The upper and lower bumper breaks apparently. I broke the lower bumper plate twice (both times hitting steel barriers trying to drive on a new track) and bent the upper bumper plate once in one of those times.

For me, the rear wishbone problem can be solved tentatively by using the longer steel pivot ball or by using shorter rear trackwidth which makes the stock pivot balls go in deeper.

I'm using the stock aluminum pivot balls in the rear and usign smaller rear trackwidth with no problems.

cox049

The aluminum spacers are the 802323 that come for the rear trackrod, and the plastic ones were in my toolbox... they are everywere

B

iTrader: (13)

Is serpent going to come out with revised/ stronger front Knuckles and upper suspension arms?

It seems like that lots of people are breaking those as well.

InitialD

Cool. In your last pic, you only used plastic spacers. It looks like you used an aluminum and some plastic spacer. Is that correct? Also, it looks like you moved the 5th body post to offset the new front shock tower position.

InitialD

I guess if you're breaking these parts on the Serpent, you'll also break them on other cars as well.

But seriously, I still have original front upper arms. I'm also still using the same knuckles. I've also used the same pair or knuckles in my 705 (same original one) since it came out as an option for the 705. For me, most of the time the knuckles will pop out of the pivot ball when I clip something. I guess that's the reason why the knuckles do not break. Another guy at our track also kept breaking the original knuckles of the 705 but when he changed to the FC steering blocks (the same ones on the 710), he stopped breaking them. Just that now, the knuckles pop oput of the pivot balls.

As crashed_1 mentioned, my 710 went into the steel fence grills at the high speed sweeper going into a straight and my dogbone just pop out. Nothing else broke.

cox049

Yeah, with the alu spacers its really strong! I highly recommend this mod ( It takes 30 minutes at the most ) and the 5th post will use spacers until you have a new body and make the hole were needed

InitialD

Yup. Brain fade ! Luckily did not break anything. The dogbone came loose out of the drivecup and was still stuck ot one side when I picked the car up. Was very tiring and weary for me to go up and down picking the car up on the track and starting the car. So I called the day short.

Well the next day at Andalas track was fantastic though... Just that you weren't there to watch !

rodrigo1508

Actually the shock tower didnt break

cox049

My opinion:

I'm braking a lot of parts because I'm hitting a lot of things, period. This includes the body which I ripped off a complete fender today...

Now if I ask Proform to make thicker bodies, and serpent to make stronger pieces... what will I end up having?? A nice and strong tank?

I will complaint if a part or component fails prematurely due to normal use, but if I like to go fast and I don't know how, so I crash and brake...

I hope you all understand what I mean this is a fine "race" car

cox049

The mod will protect the shocks, not the tower

rodrigo1508

oohhh!! Thanks, didnt read the post completely and since its called front shock tower mod I thought if was to protact the tower. Ill check it out

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

What rear track rod?

InitialD

Well, the spacers are actually from the small aluminum spacers that the DRS arm uses.

B

iTrader: (13)

There is no doubt that this car is a fine race car. However, there seems to be a lot of breakages of some particular parts. This is not that normal. Especially most racers are breaking them while driving slowly. It is good to see a company acknowledging these problems. And before I, or anyone else for that matter, jump in and spend a considerable amount of money on buying the car, one would like to figure out what problems there are and the solutions for them.

Yes, no car is complete free from breaking. And that newer cars usually have a few problems that need ironing out. However, the 710 is prone to breaking in those few areas, you cannot deny it. And no, that does not happen on a number of other cars. My Mugen and kyosho's for that matter, does not have the same problems. I am not bashing serpent here. I am only stating what is true. That aside, the mugen front knuckle is also prone to breaking, but that is pretty much it.

I have received good replies regarding my questions. Thanks very much to a number of invididuals for that.