Alu should be ok, too. But don't live upto your name and put some Gold ones in there :eek: :lol: they'd be pretty heavy ;) :lol:

Dont use Tamiya / Yokomo Ti screw when you use Hudy wrench.
Too much play..:confused:
Later batch of speedmind is perfect, but there is some newer batch is same as Tamiya screw.
Hope speedmind did not "screw" again on their later batch.

Actually I don't have any problems - I have the Tamiya EVO III Surikarn - it has all the Ti screws and I only stripped hex-headed screw so far, and this was because I put too much thread-lock onto the screw. Apart from that, I've had no problems with the fit with the hudy tools.

That will only happen on a really "High-Level RC Racing" ha ha ..

Maybe they did a better fit now. During the new 414WC time, we always stripped the hex-head, especially on those suspension block screw.
Thats why we switch to speedmind screw.

I dont compress the shocks all the way just compress it until the chassis touches the floor. But that was just one time to see how it measured up.

Muahahah ! :deathstar

Aluminum may not be stronger and not advisable on parts with a lot of stress. Between titanium and aluminum, aluminum is definitely lighter.

Well, when I was in Thailand, I saw Suruth's car. Titaniums screws everywhere and for certain places, aluminum screws were used. His brother said that it saved about 50 grams or so with those stuff on it ! :nod:

I use the titanium screws from Xenon Racing. They are pretty good actually and reasonable too. About close to USD 4 for a pack which consist 8 screws of the same type.

I initially thought that all screws had some play in them until I changed my 2 mm Hudy ! :o So all this while it was the Hudy tool that has worned out.:lol:

You're completely right! The front roll center has to be higher to fight traction roll.

I didn't run this weekend (work). I was out during the week. Cold but traction was ok for the circumstances.

If you run a "pushing" tire split (more than 1mm difference) you will very soon end up wit a 1:1 or slightly pulling split. This is because rear tires wear faster anyway but in the beginning it will be even more so because they do all the work. That would make the car change a lot in the first 5 - 10 minutes until the tires are back to a 1 -0.5 mm split.

The track is quite flat, but the car does bottom out a bit in the last 5 minutes. It get's a bit unpredictable :D
Of course this test is a bit extereme but I just want to see what happens and how the car changes. It's quite good till 58mm (about 40 min) and then things get interesting.

I think one of the very good qualities of the 710 is the small difference between large and small tires.

Where can I get Xenon Racing Titanium screws from "D"?

That would depend on the track. On some tracks that kind of tire choice would make the car very different in left and right corners. If you can use it with the car feeling neutral I'd most likely try it.

In long mains you will slowly adapt to the unevenness of the car when tires wear different left and right. Starting out with an unequal car is more difficult.

If you don't change spring settings (adjust ride height) when putting on new tires, don't change downstop. But if you loosen the springs to lower the car when using big tires you'd need to make the downstop higher (to get the total travel of the suspension the same)

It's under setups :weird:

I get it from my LHS. It's Japanese based and I believe Xenon Racing makes the Barracuda electric shaft driven car.

Cool because I noticed that you guys used it during last year's EC in Portugal.

I agree. So the trick would be to keep the tire wear as close as possible to enable you to drive consistantly is the key I guess...

:nod:

I think most people don't know your surname as Kolff.;)