Sorry guys. Was busy. Below are some clearer pictures...

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL115/...2/48075015.jpg

On the left was the modded clutch shoe with the inner part recess for the spring cup reamed out and on the right is the stock clutch shoe.

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL115/...2/48074983.jpg

Cut out the clutcshoe to 3 equal pieces exactly where the holes are as in the picture.

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL115/...2/48074970.jpg

Here's the end result upon assembly onto the flywheel.

Re: 710 vs 705
 

I think this was mentioned before. The 710 is easier to set (wider sweet spot) and to drive than the 705. With the 705, you need more time to get a correct setup when with the 710, it is very simple and easy to do. Maintenance wise, it's also easier to do on the 710 than on the 705.

Out of the box with stock setup, the car tends to understeer. But I guess this was done on purpose to get those people who are beginners to get used to the 710 before tuning it for more steering.

Yes. More steering, rear traction and transition speed from side to side is very much improved. I guess it's partly due to the lightened drivetrain and suspension parts and not forgetting the reduced CG of the car.

I need to add that at the end of the day, it all depends on the person behind the Tx.

As far as the rear shock tower, I went ahead and made a "just in case" brace out of sheet graphite. We are just getting out of carpet season here, so our 710's are just hitting the track.

I was having clutch problems, but, after re-adjusting my clutch gap, I think I noticed the problem. Apparantly, I installed the thrust bearing backwards upon assembly.

Even though I ran the impulse platform for a couple of years, I am still relatively new to the centax-style clutch. I actually bought my 705 used (but in new condition), so my first centax was assembled for me, and I never messed with anything but the engagement point. I think that I understand how the clutch works, but I am unsure what the thrust bearing's contribution is to the operation.

What exactly does the thrust bearing do, and why is the inside diameter larger on one side?

The thrust bearings are purposely there to handle the axial load from the clutch shoes. Normal bearings would only handle radial loads.

The larger diameter (5.2 mm) of the thrust bearing piece needs to go first inside because this will avoid the whole thrust bearing spining at the same engine revolution and making the bearing toast afterwards ! That would happen if you install the 5.0 mm side of the flange first.

Ah yes, it all makes sense now. When, oh when, will you write your book, InitialD?

:lol: :lol: :lol: Don't worry. You'll get the first autographed copy once it's out ! :lol: (j/k)

Maybe this has already been dicussed a thousand times, but what is the advantage of making the "ID" of the clutch shoe bigger? And what is the benefit of making the clutch shoe into three equal pieces??
Art Carbonell posted on the "GRID" that he found the stock setup to be sluggish but after he put the Centax 2 spring in there, set the gap to book spec and adjusted the nut till he liked the performance, he said that the clutch was now nice and responsive. Anyone ever try doing this? Thanks.

705 better than the Impulse. Got the conversion from Serpent USA

Is that particular thrust bearing only for the 710 clutch? My thrust bearing seems to be the same size on both sides.

I have a G4 with a push type clutch. It has a washer with a groove on one side and a ring of balls goes inside the groove and a similar washer goes on the other side.

WHERE CAN YOU HIDE THAT???????:rolleyes: :eek: :sweat: :lol:

All Centax type clutch use the same type of thrust bearings. The 710 uses the 5x10x4 thrust bearing. So does the MTX-3. Perhaps on the G4 it is of a different size thrust bearing.

I was referring to the 2 washers. If you measure their internal diameter carefully, you will find one is bigger than the other. The one with the bigger diameter needs to go first nearest to the engine clutch shoe. Else, you'll keep toasting your thrust bearings and your LHS will be a happy man ! :lol:

The G4 has a smaller ID washer on one side of the thrust bearing as well.

Hey AGGDADDY, I think the design or the thrust bearing will differ slightly from one manufacturere to another, I hope this is what you are after and I wouldnt worry too much if your bearing is the same on both sides. this simply means it 'SHOULD' be able to go in anyway, but just check the manual anyway...

I am looking for some info, I am looking at a MULTIPLEX PROFI SPEED servo, it has metal bearings and is digital. another plus is that it isnt the usual black, but rather red, and I think it would look rather different. but that is not important, what is, is how does it act in the car??? I know the 710 isnt a monster truck but my little uneducated mind tells me that a high torque servo should be used for stearing...? As you would need power to hold the wheels in place while turning... I suppose one would need speed though instead...

Ummm, to lighten it?;)

If they are not in 3 equal places, it will cause rotational imbalance !

I think a few of us here tried like what Art did. Follow everything from the manual and set the spring tension nut accordingly and change to the Centax 2 spring.

I tried the harder Centax 2 clutch spring the last weekend with the flyweight mod. Well, did not like it as I thought the clutch slipped a little out of the corners. I loosened the spring tension nut and when I took it out and measured, I was at 0.5mm from the thread end of the exposing nut. But I think I still need to loosen it some more. Must do more testings with it.

With the stock gold Centax spring, I had to tighten the spring tension nut down to 1.2 mm and the engagement was perfect with the clutch mod. I'll put back the stock Centax spring and try it out this weekend.

The design of the thrust bearing remains the same from car to car. Just different sizes but the principle of installation and setup is the same. For your information, you could buy these thrust bearings off the shelf of a decent bearing shop.

No experience with them but I thought that the Multiplex servos are made by Futaba but I may be wrong...

Decent high speed servos have decent torque figures and holding power. Normally, it is more than what the steering requires actually. So naturally when you already have all those features covered, you would want high speed feature for the steering servo.