Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race
 

That's the idea ! :rolleyes: :lol: Concord please.:lol:

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race
 

Oh, ok. I think that's a polite way of saying, "InitialD, over my dead body getting a lift from me"...:lol: :lol: :lol: :cry: :(

Anyway, congrats to you, Michael and the rest of Team Serpent for a fine run.:nod:

:lol: I like the rear end. :D

BTW, nice ride lagnaf.:nod:

How did you manage to do that?:confused:

You can try the HK online shopping sites (www.rc-mushroom.com) or try The Border (http://shop.the-border.nl) or RCCarinternational (http://www.rccarinternational.com)which both are based in Holland.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race
 

I believe Julius does not measure this and always sets this on the track...

Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race
 

I'm currently using 0.7 mm clutch gap, yellow shoe, cut flyweights to mount it in the center of the flywheel post and with 2 M3x4 set screws on each flyweight like what Pyramid / Golfinger did. Boy, a lot of punch ! Julius was right to say that it bogs the engine down a lot. I had to use the super hard Mugen spring and crank the spring all the way down to like 1.2 or 1.4 mm from the clutch nut threading (did not really measure) and it started to engage right.:nod:

NEW 710 RIMS
 

WHEN ARE THESE COMING OUT?

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race
 

I did not have too much time to experiment, but I started with a .5 gap, yellow shoe, and stock flyweights with one set screw in each ("glenn cauley" style). Like this, the clutch bogged the engine horribly. I tightened the adjustment nut a few times...which didn't work well enough. I then increased the gap to .6.
It still did not feel perfect, but I just went with it...I had other problems to deal with. At that point, I would have taken the black shoe setup I had previously over the yellow shoe setup, but I did not have the time or motivation to rebuild and reset my clutch.

I think that I will move the gap to .7 and tighten the adjustment nut a little more before I go to the track again. Hopefully this will give the results I want.

For anyone that is interested, my SARCAR race report --- 710's took 1st and 3rd. Link, with photos, is:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...917#post959917

Re: Re: LRP - nitro Tourin car masters
 

:lol: :lol: :lol: So Mr. Levy now tired building the diff?:lol: :lol:(j/k)

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race
 

Mine is now exactly like yours: yellow shoes, one screw on each, 0.5 gap BUT with hard spring. I believe both Art C and Glenn himself are using this configuration. I like it a lot with my RR12L3

Re: Re: Re: LRP - nitro Tourin car masters
 

:lol: :lol: :lol: :cry: :cry: :lol:

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race
 

I think the set screws provide too much axial force ! You really need a hard spring to tighten the shoes down. I find even the harder Centax II spring (1.8) than the stock one is not able to get the engine not to bog down with the setup I have.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race
 

I forgot to add that I had the bogging problems when I changed to the yellow shoes. Not that it is bad but that goes to show that the shoe provides a lot of grip.

Using black stock shoes with the flyweights cut and installed in the middle of the fywheel post and with 2 M3x4 set screws on each shoe, I had to really crank down the pre tension clutch nut to 1.5 mm thereabouts. This is with the stock softer Centax spring.

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: LRP race
 

The yellow shoe does grab very hard!
I don't really feel that I am too far away from where I want the clutch set. I doubt that I will need to change to a harder spring for my home track, but it is probably something I will end up playing with soon. Right now, the only spare spring I have is a mugen silver spring...I believe it is the hardest one mugen makes.