:rolleyes:

Sponsor decals?:lol: How I wish ! More like decals sponsored from the own pocket ! :lol: I think it's already too much trouble asking to airbrush the bodyshell. Don't think you'll like pasting decals and all. If you wish, you could do it though but I don't mind doing it myself.:sweat:

:eek: Hand made? I guess that comes with graphically talented people have certain computers running certain platform?:rolleyes: :lol:

Since I built my 710, I blasted the grease inside all of the bearings (except for the smaller bearings in the clutch and in the diff) and lubed it with Mobil 1 SAE 0W-40. A little heavy for bearing oil but so far so good and I have not yet needed to lube the bearings up till now.

I've regularly cleaned the external part of the bearings with Serpent cleaning gum though. The gum picks out the dirt and dust from the external shield without contaminating the interior bearing race. No air compressor blasting on those parts as dirt goes in and there goes the bearings.

Perhaps on the next major service on the bearings, I'll use the Serpent Bearing Lube 1682.

I take out the pivot pins when I access the dogbones. That was, you keep the wheel camber and trackwidth settings the same always without having the need to put it on the setup board.

You could also access the dogbones when you take the diff or oneway out from the top.

Some of the electric guys actually run 3 one ways. Front, rear and center. Must be fast, cause the lap times are really low.

Hey you could stick a picture of your wallet on your car :lol: :lol: :lol:


:nod: Now he's starting to see the light! :nod:

Well, you learn something everyday! :nod: What is the point in having a centre one-way when you have a front and rear :weird:
I bet those cars are awsome accelerating out of corners!! :nod: Just hope they never want ot brake :lol: :lol:

New Stuff !
 

This is what I got last night at the LHS ! :sneaky: :D

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL115/...2/47891248.jpg

Clockwise from top left is the Centax 3 Clutch Housing Open (802502), Tool Pressure Nipple / Centax Nut (1462) and the Shocktower Carbon Rear (802301).:sneaky:

Rear Shock Tower (802301)
 

The revised rear shock tower is 3.5 mm thick and not 4 mm as mentioned earlier. The old one has a thickness of 2.5 mm. Same part number as the old one but the difference is that it has new cut outs.

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL115/...2/47892009.jpg

The bottom rear shock tower in the picture is the newer revision.

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL115/...2/47892023.jpg

Putting them one on top of the other, I also noticed that the rear body post mounts are slightly lower than the old one.

This was what I meant...

http://pic1.picturetrail.com/VOL115/...2/47891071.jpg

The rear arms still have ample uptravel at trackwidth below 200 mm. I think still more than the car ever requires when you put the shocks on.

Of course, like what you said that it's kinda like putting upstop screws when you limit the rear trackwidth but these so called "upstop screws" are only located at a place where it would not interfere with the working suspension travel of the rear arms when the shocks are attached.

Yep, that's the thing! :D Seems pretty good to me! In fact, the shocks take a bit of travel out anyway, so it probably doesn't even get close to locking-out :nod:

Oh Man!!! You've got all the new bits :cry: Excellent virtual D1 pics :lol:

What does wifey think of them? http://www.terranuts.com/forums/images/smilies/wife.gif :lol:

.

HEY!!! :flaming: What are you doing with those ti screws and where did you get them from :flaming: Look just like my Surikarn ones.....uh-oh! :eek: The Dark Lord has swiped my screws with a Jedi mind trick!!!!!!!!! :cry:

Virtual D1 pics? I beg your pardon ! :flaming: :lol:

Wifey? What wifey? What new stuff?:lol: :lol: :lol:

What Ti screws? :rolleyes: :lol: Perhaps the pic is from a Surikarn rear ! :lol:

You need to just believe and it will be on your car ! :sneaky: :lol: :deathstar