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Old 02-03-2004, 02:44 AM   #3826
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Here is the Starter box...along with my other necessary tools. ye athe dirty cloth also.
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Old 02-03-2004, 03:02 AM   #3827
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Originally posted by jfc_tech
Here is the Starter box...along with my other necessary tools. ye athe dirty cloth also.
You are sticker happy just like me But I have cut down alot since too much looks too messy
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Old 02-03-2004, 03:07 AM   #3828
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Quote:
Originally posted by cyba888
You are sticker happy just like me But I have cut down alot since too much looks too messy
Im getting used to it since my EP era. But it getting worse now my sticker happy time with the Asean race at Kuching Sarawak race which requires 1,800grams minimum on the weight...this of coz gonna be problem for our 710
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Old 02-03-2004, 03:53 AM   #3829
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Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
To bad I needed to work on th only dry day in weeks shheezz
Oh well...

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
You're right about the droop and drs arm when changing the lower pin position. If you change the top pin's position you'll need to check camber. If you are referring to Schrijver99's change. I think he only changed the top point to the out position. That gives more steering into corners. With a one way and low grip that doesn't work. But with the ball diff in front it balances the car nicely.
Yeah, you're right Julius. I just realised what was written by Schrijver99. Apologies for the oversight ! But I think if you change the upper pin from stock to outer (shorter upper rear arm, UBO/LB), that would only make the rear roll center only marginally higher than the stock if I'm not wrong. To get a significant increase in the rear roll center, the rear lower pin change is better.

Anyway, I notice that by going with the upper rear pin on the outer side (shorter upper rear arms, UBO), I need to turn the pivot balls out a lot to get -4 camber in the rear. The upper pivot ball is already turned in to the max. This makes the rear lower pivot balls very succeptible to stripping out of the plastic threads. The rear end trackwidth is 198 to 199 mm.

I also notice that with the stock shock lenghts in the rear (if I remember correctly, that was what I measured), I cannot get more droop in the rear than +6.

As for the rear diff, I notice that when the diff is cold, it gives a very tight setting. When the car comes in after a few good rounds, I notice that the diff will be slightly looser but then it stays constant. Just thought that people should notice this when checking diff settings of other cars...

If I use 4 mm spacers under the upper front arms to get a lower front roll center, I notice that I cannot use the lowest hole on the front shock tower.

Just some observations of mine.
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Old 02-03-2004, 03:57 AM   #3830
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I don't think the silicone fuel tubing is a problem but on a side note, I love how the original Serpent ones that come with the kit will last me !

The last I measured, I run mine at 20 cm. The delivery line with the inline Tornado fuel filter is as short as possible. Perhaps you can try running a fuel filter (mind the direction of the air) in the pressure line. Then you can run at shorter lengths.

Ummm, can you try and get hold of a different pipe? Perhaps borrow a spare one from a friend? I don't know but perhaps the pipe you're running sounds dodgy. My 2 cents.
Initiald:

Thank you... I have a Novarossi Inline pipe on backorder at Rc-Mushroom but am still waiting

I will keep you posted as too how i go though.
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Old 02-03-2004, 04:05 AM   #3831
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
More angled (upper link) = less camber change when cornering.
Shorter upper link = the speed (faster) of camber change.
I think we should not confuse camber change with roll centers. These are 2 different settings and affected by the physical length and hence the angle of the arms. Long arms make for smaller camber changes and vice versa. Angling of the arms differently because of the different arm positions, different arm lengths etc makes for different roll centers. My 2 cents.

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Actually (I need to find my setup booklet and re read) what I confuse about is the statement (if I remember it correctly) that says higher front = more grip while higher rear = less grip.. Maybe I just mis read the setup booklet.
I think I made that same mistake last time. I think you mistook the higher front UPPER ARM position (means lower roll center due to less angling in the front arms) = more front grip.

The same went to the rear... Higher rear SPACERS (means higher roll center due to more angling in the rear arms) = less rear grip.
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:31 AM   #3832
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Yes D, I think so about the misperception when reading...

Have you tried putting the rear lower pin in its high position (= higher roll center)? what did you feel on the rear? I definetely felt it is more planted to the ground which is should not according to the setup book (which should be less grip)..

Also, sory D, I did not agree with this one.. longer amrs does not makes less or more of camber change.. the angle does

Another opinion as I remember to brough up now, shimming the upper deck by 0.9mm (just to make it as high as the one on front bullkhead) would have been really important to keep the chassis from unwanted tweak. The middle braket does not design to hold the upper deck for having angle. So when you force to screw angled upper deck, you will have tweak somewhere.. may not be on the 4mm chassis as the 2mm upper deck is more flexible as well as the plastic middle bracket...
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:43 AM   #3833
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
As for the rear diff, I notice that when the diff is cold, it gives a very tight setting. When the car comes in after a few good rounds, I notice that the diff will be slightly looser but then it stays constant. Just thought that people should notice this when checking diff settings of other cars...
There is a way to mod a little bit to make the diff runs much smoother without any grease applied. I think Goldfinger has more info about it.. which is the same noticable problem with the Xray T1 rear diff right before the EVO2 I believe (they changed the design I think).
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:47 AM   #3834
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, can you try and get hold of a different pipe? Perhaps borrow a spare one from a friend? I don't know but perhaps the pipe you're running sounds dodgy. My 2 cents.
S710_Nut, the above is a good idea. From your description, its worth trying out another pipe just for comparison.

My 1.5 cents' worth
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Old 02-03-2004, 07:56 AM   #3835
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
There is a way to mod a little bit to make the diff runs much smoother without any grease applied. I think Goldfinger has more info about it.. which is the same noticable problem with the Xray T1 rear diff right before the EVO2 I believe (they changed the design I think).
Pyramid, do you mind repeating the mod here for us all? Mine is already really gritty and its time for a rebuild. I wouldn't mind doing the mod at the same time.
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Old 02-03-2004, 08:32 AM   #3836
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Which exhaust pipe do you guys like to use? I'm running a ns12s3 novarossi engine.
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Old 02-03-2004, 08:41 AM   #3837
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pit-racer
Which exhaust pipe do you guys like to use? I'm running a ns12s3 novarossi engine.
Pit ... you need to be legal? Apparently there were great results achieved at the recent Serpent Asia Challenge with the TP06 (both kinds - EFRA and Outlaw versions). I think someone mentioned that GrandMaster MS used it on his S3 based KHM with great zooooooom!
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Old 02-03-2004, 09:13 AM   #3838
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Default Tweak

I know this has been answered but I have to ask myself so bear with me. I just setup my car and set the tweak before I hooked up both swaybars and upon doing so it is off now. So ultimatley I am going to set tweak according to whether or not I am using my swaybars? I mean the end result is to have a car's tweak perfect they way I plan on running it correct?
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Old 02-03-2004, 09:37 AM   #3839
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Quote:
Originally posted by kreidel
... I mean the end result is to have a car's tweak perfect they way I plan on running it correct?
Sounds correct to me ...
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Old 02-03-2004, 09:42 AM   #3840
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Have you tried putting the rear lower pin in its high position (= higher roll center)? what did you feel on the rear? I definetely felt it is more planted to the ground which is should not according to the setup book (which should be less grip)..
I'm currently using the rear lower pin in the lower position. Previously, I tried the high position but the car turned in too much for my liking. Sometimes I experienced a lot of off power oversteer. So now I'm back to the rear lower pin in the lower position.

Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Also, sory D, I did not agree with this one.. longer amrs does not makes less or more of camber change.. the angle does
Perhaps you can see it the other way around when the arms are longer / shorter which makes for different angle... Camber changes when the arms are longer are less than when the arms are short.
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