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Old 02-01-2004, 07:35 PM   #3796
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Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
just race
easy method = ditch the sway bars and run stiffer springs
I can set my whole car up in less than 10 minutes (including setting droop with shocks undone) using the hudy setup stuff
Sbmon

What springs, oil are you running?
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Old 02-01-2004, 08:37 PM   #3797
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Quote:
Originally posted by S710_Nut
Thanks InitialD... I have a tornado filter on it's way, i am going to try new fuel line, filter and tank an see if i can over come this problem. I haven't had a chance to do anything as yet as i have had the car in bits for some maintenance
S710_Nut, how long is your pressure line tubing from the tank to the pipe? What pipe are you using? Can you by any chance try a different pipe? Is there any excessive bubbling in your tank?
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Old 02-01-2004, 08:40 PM   #3798
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Quote:
Originally posted by JustRace
What springs, oil are you running?
For me, I run yellow with 35wt oil and 4 holes open. Stock shock position on the shock tower. No front sway bar.
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Old 02-01-2004, 08:47 PM   #3799
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Quote:
Originally posted by Schrijver99
Had the new front balldiff installed today, man what a brake the cars has, but also much understeer. To counter the understeer i'm lucky there are most of the time teamdrivers at my track, to help me out. Rene told me to chance the roll-centre of the upperrear arms and use the outside position and turn in 3 turns the upper pivotballs. And that worked. Still i need to learn to drive with a balldiff in front, i'm used to drive with the oneway.
With snow and everything, you guys still get to play? Well, you guys are real hardcore !

Yes, the rear roll center thingy makes a lot of difference in the car. I tried that rear roll center position like what you did but on a one way front. Boy, it had tremendous amount of on power steering ! It is actually the same setup as what Michael Salven did on his car in Thailand. And yes, WITHOUT front sway bars too ! The car oversteered a lot in the mid and out of the corners on my track. Around hairpins, the rear of the car rotates very easily.

Anyway, when you change the rear roll center (moving the rear lower pin up), you also need to reset your rear droop, right? Also your DRS arm position. If I'm not wrong, if you set your DRS arm to level when your rear pivot pin is stock, changing the rear pivot pins to up position will make the DRS arm to below.
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Old 02-01-2004, 08:54 PM   #3800
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Default Re: Front tweak and droop

Quote:
Originally posted by JustRace
Initial....after you use the cam to get both sides equal don't you find that you need to turn the cam to get the tweak correct? This in turn throws off the droop. I'm wondering if you just need to go back and forth until the droop and tweak all balances out.
On my setup, I actually do not use the front sway bar !

I did remember having your problem with the front sway bars. But I think I remember Julius mentioning that just set the droop equally on both sides (without shocks and sway bar), then put them on and just check equal droop. The droop may be more than what you intended but that should be OK. Just make sure left and right is the same.

Quote:
Originally posted by Julius
If they are equal left and right but just lower (about a mm is normal) there is nothing wrong. The droop is measured without shocks. When you mount the shocks the springs will push on the arms making the downstop seem lower. As long as you always measure with the shocks off it's ok.

If they are uneven left and right it may be a tweak in the sway bar.
The reason why I'm not using the front sway bar at the moment is I'm just testing out some setups. Pretty good from what I am getting. To balance out oversteer in the middle / out of the corner, I loosen the rear diff a little.
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Old 02-01-2004, 09:35 PM   #3801
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Default Re: HOW TO MAKE YOUR PIC LARGER?

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Originally posted by mop_iko
change the PIXEL SIZE of your image.... i always use 1000pixel for the width.... and resolution is 72dpi...

that will make your image size BIG in SIZE but SMALL in file size so your images can show up faster.


mop
Thanks, will try.
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Old 02-01-2004, 09:50 PM   #3802
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justrace please don't bash me
but i run a mugen
I just like to read this thread to get ideas and keep abreast
of the competition
seriosly though The 710 looks to be a very nice high quality car
but for me with all those adjustments you guys have it looks to be a bit much for me currently. I like to stick
with KISS (keep it simple stupid) This is why i am trying new setups , like running my car without the front swaybar (its one thing less to worry about setting perfectly) So far though I have to admit my car does not feel quite as planted as it did in the past with the swaybars on , but I have only recently begun testing without them so time and tinkering will tell
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Old 02-01-2004, 10:02 PM   #3803
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Default Re: Front tweak and droop

Quote:
Originally posted by JustRace
Initial....after you use the cam to get both sides equal don't you find that you need to turn the cam to get the tweak correct? This in turn throws off the droop. I'm wondering if you just need to go back and forth until the droop and tweak all balances out.

Anyone with an easy method?
I'm not Initial, but, IMO, you don't use the cam to adjust for tweak. You use spring pre-load. After you set the droop with the front anti-roll bar disconnected, and shocks off, hook the anti-roll bar back up, and adjust the cam so the left front suspension is being supported by the down-stop (not with the cam), with no pressure being applied to the anti-roll bar. N.B. the cam is not setting the droop; it is raising/lowering the left suspension so that when the droop is correct, the down-stop is limiting the suspension travel, and the anti-roll bar is unloaded. The droop should still be as you set it before hooking up the anti-roll bar. Now you hook up your shocks/springs and adjust out any tweak with the shock pre-load.
Remember to make compensatory changes to opposing springs so the ride height doesn't change.
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Old 02-01-2004, 10:09 PM   #3804
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Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
I like to stick with KISS (keep it simple stupid)
A spy ! No worries, we won't bash you up if you don't have a 710. Just stick to the rules, be kind and we're always open to suggestions and inputs from other people.

You're right that the number of tuning options available on the car will make one shy away from it. But don't get it wrong. The stock setting is fine. The additional tuning options on the 710 are for those advance people who like to take the car to the next level. If you're adventurous enough, just follow the setup book table on page 33 provided (excellent companion) and just follow the suggestions that you need to do to the car if this and that happens.

Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
This is why i am trying new setups , like running my car without the front swaybar (its one thing less to worry about setting perfectly) So far though I have to admit my car does not feel quite as planted as it did in the past with the swaybars on , but I have only recently begun testing without them so time and tinkering will tell
The rear of the car behaving a little too wild out of the corners? Have you tried loosening the rear diff with a lighter oil?
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Old 02-01-2004, 10:10 PM   #3805
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Default Re: does anyone here have a novamega sx12 ss 3p-turbo engine here???

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Originally posted by baller360
does anyone here have a novamega sx12 ss 3p-turbo engine here if so tell me what you think of it becuase am thinking of getting one and where I could get it for a really good price? also what do you think of it to the novarossi ns12 s3 and the rb concepts v12 3port turbo? these were my other choices.any information on these engines will be appreciated thanks!
I run the SS 3pt turbo. You Will not be disappointed. FYI the ss and the ns12 s3 are incredibly close. They are technically the same motor just different markings on the outside. I paid 235 for my SS
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Old 02-01-2004, 10:56 PM   #3806
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Quote:
Originally posted by sbmon
just race ...
sbmon, this is the BEST advice I've heard ALL year!
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Old 02-02-2004, 12:54 AM   #3807
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Talking Master D

What is the approx cost of a 710 at your place? I've got a reasonably good deal here.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:25 AM   #3808
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
With snow and everything, you guys still get to play? Well, you guys are real hardcore !

Anyway, when you change the rear roll center (moving the rear lower pin up), you also need to reset your rear droop, right? Also your DRS arm position. If I'm not wrong, if you set your DRS arm to level when your rear pivot pin is stock, changing the rear pivot pins to up position will make the DRS arm to below.
To bad I needed to work on th only dry day in weeks shheezz

You're right about the droop and drs arm when changing the lower pin position. If you change the top pin's position you'll need to check camber. If you are referring to Schrijver99's change. I think he only changed the top point to the out position. That gives more steering into corners. With a one way and low grip that doesn't work. But with the ball diff in front it balances the car nicely.
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Old 02-02-2004, 01:27 AM   #3809
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
S710_Nut, how long is your pressure line tubing from the tank to the pipe? What pipe are you using? Can you by any chance try a different pipe? Is there any excessive bubbling in your tank?
The pressure line is 17cm long and i am using an eagle racing pipe.

I am going to to try with the filter on the delivery line, what size do you run and what size pressure line should i run. I have some new JET Racing fuel tube? What do you suggest?

SN
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Old 02-02-2004, 08:12 AM   #3810
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I remember reading the S710 set up booklet and came accross about the roll center. If I remember them correctly, they are opposite explenation between the higher front and higher rear as it describe less traction for rear (with higher rear, lower pin high) and more traction for front (higher front, less spacer below)... Is this really correct? or I just miss interpret the statement? or better yet, I got it all wrong
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