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Old 01-05-2004, 06:58 PM   #2656
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Old 01-05-2004, 07:30 PM   #2657
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Quote:
Originally posted by JoshVilleneuve
Actually , I started out with Ellegi 40's then went to 37's and yesterday went back to 40.
Same shore front and rear?

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Originally posted by JoshVilleneuve
As far as the rear diff, I started out with tight like my impulse pro. Did not work well. When I loosened the rear diff it actually improved and then I am tightening it up as other adjustments improve the handling!
When you tighten the rear diff, off power steering suffers. You need to use more caster angle to get back off power steering. Front shocks should be sufficiently hard to support side to side front weight transfer due to the larger caster angle. Stiffening the front sway bar slightly also helps.
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Old 01-05-2004, 07:57 PM   #2658
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yes D, we started to go stiffer (red springs in rear) also and this is helping. I'm just surprised no one has mentioned this. That and the clutch seems to be the biggest issues so far and all the guys at our local track in S. Florida are having the same problem. I hear that using the long upper arm position for the rear roll center addresses the problem completely, but I have not had the chance to try this yet!
Thanks for your responses!
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Old 01-05-2004, 08:06 PM   #2659
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Originally posted by JoshVilleneuve
How come no one has mentioned the terrible push the car develops coming out of the turns? Yesterday we had four or five guys, including Serpent driver Scotty Gray racing the new 710, and we all had the same on power push coming out of the turns.
I guess you run in the big fast flowing track there...(just guessing).
I was told by another driver that test 710 in kind of that track.
They only step up the rear shock mounting and after using harder(red) spring with the same tire shore the problem is gone.

Mine is run in small tight track. I like those push (a bit) so I can squeeze throttle earlier even before the front is not facing the racing line yet.

Julius ever told me to use softer front shore (dont worry, this car is very well balanced front to rear)... it was awesome for those who had an aggresive driving style. But my finger is still cant keeping the aggresive front wheel. Its a matter of choice/style I think.
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Old 01-05-2004, 08:44 PM   #2660
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Quote:
Originally posted by JoshVilleneuve
yes D, we started to go stiffer (red springs in rear) also and this is helping. I'm just surprised no one has mentioned this. That and the clutch seems to be the biggest issues so far and all the guys at our local track in S. Florida are having the same problem. I hear that using the long upper arm position for the rear roll center addresses the problem completely, but I have not had the chance to try this yet!
Thanks for your responses!
Late
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This on power push problem seems to be the perfect opportunity to try the DRS feature.
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Old 01-05-2004, 08:46 PM   #2661
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Quote:
Originally posted by JoshVilleneuve
yes D, we started to go stiffer (red springs in rear) also and this is helping. I'm just surprised no one has mentioned this. That and the clutch seems to be the biggest issues so far and all the guys at our local track in S. Florida are having the same problem.
Josh, I agree with you. From the get go, I started with my own mod on the 710 clutch using the same parts from the kit. Just different way of mounting the flyweights. I also used smaller end float (0.4 mm instead of 0.7 mm) and used the same 1 mm clutchnut gap. I only experienced fantastic acceleration. The clutch is very responsive to a certain extent that the tail kept going off in the corners if I throttled too much. No bogging of any sort.

As for the push, I did not experience any. I started out with full size 40 shore all around (Speedmind tires), yellow stock springs all around and with 30 wt stock Serpent shock oil. I realised I made a mistake when I set the shocks. I used 2 holes in front and 3 holes in the rear. Anyway, I left it as it is.

Front toe in was 0 with rear +2. I adjusted the rear droop to +9 but the front I left it at 0 instead of adjusting it to +2 with the 66 mm tires. Front ride height is 6 mm and rear 7 mm. I thought the car was a little twitchy for me in the straights. So I changed the caster and added more. Now I have it at 2 mm caster clip at the back of the front upper arm. Sway bars was stock in the rear and flat 0 degree in the front. The DRS arm and the roll centers were stock too. I also tightened the rear diff a little. I liked the feel of the car coming out of the corners. Too tight and the tail was twiching when I gunned the throttle too much.

With yellow springs, the car was more forgivable on the track that I run. With red springs all around, the car was more responsive and was a little difficult to drive at first especially in the corners. Later I found out the front was reacting too fast that made the cornering a little unpredictable when I throttle as the car tails. This made me drive slower in the corners and in the infields. Switch to making the front sway bar at 45 degrees and the car handles corners perfectly and the faster around the corners.

Quote:
Originally posted by JoshVilleneuve
I hear that using the long upper arm position for the rear roll center addresses the problem completely, but I have not had the chance to try this yet!
Keep us updated. Julius posted on mytsn to say that longer rear upper arms would make for more stable braking but the shorter rear upper arms will give you better steering in fast corners as the car reponds more direct.
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Old 01-05-2004, 08:50 PM   #2662
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Quote:
Originally posted by Proficar403
This on power push problem seems to be the perfect opportunity to try the DRS feature.
I'm still itching to try the feature out. All this while I set it to stock which is at neutral position. It is now set to HIGH but I simply do not have the opportunity to test it out yet.

It took me some time to set the shims properly though. So what I did was to put a very small drop of CA glue on the shim and to let one of the conical shims stick to it.
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Old 01-05-2004, 09:11 PM   #2663
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kreidel, the car looks good. More pics please !
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Old 01-05-2004, 09:22 PM   #2664
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by InitialD
[B]Josh, I agree with you. From the get go, I started with my own mod on the 710 clutch using the same parts from the kit. Just different way of mounting the flyweights.

"Verry interesting"! Perhaps this is why you are not having a clutch problem. Thanks to a suggestion by Robert of Ashford Hobby (a ready source of Serpent parts) I'm building up a clutch with the flyweights shortened so that they will rest between the posts (not on the posts) as this will increase the centrifigal force engaging the clutch. Is this what you did?

Last edited by clmbia45; 01-05-2004 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 01-05-2004, 09:31 PM   #2665
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
Tried Fast Harrys recommended HPI 74100 pinion gear wrench-works better than my fingers! Less than $8
I should mention that this simple little device comes with instructions. You would think that when there are only 2 ways of doing something that now and then you'ld do it right just by luck!
NO such luck. If you follow the directions it works GREAT!
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Old 01-05-2004, 10:38 PM   #2666
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Quote:
Originally posted by clmbia45
I'm building up a clutch with the flyweights shortened so that they will rest between the posts (not on the posts) as this will increase the centrifigal force engaging the clutch. Is this what you did?


Jack, test the clutch with a small end float like 0.3 or 0.4 mm. The clutchnut can be set at 1 mm from the thread. See if you like it.
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:05 PM   #2667
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD


Jack, test the clutch with a small end float like 0.3 or 0.4 mm. The clutchnut can be set at 1 mm from the thread. See if you like it.
I don't understand the term "small end float like 0.3 or 0.4 mm"?? I set mine like no mevement at all horizontally but if i spin, it moves freely....is that not ok?
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:18 PM   #2668
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Originally posted by jfc_tech
I don't understand the term "small end float like 0.3 or 0.4 mm"?? I set mine like no mevement at all horizontally but if i spin, it moves freely....is that not ok?
I was referring to the procedure in Step 8.6. The manual recommends 0.7 mm.

After you install the clutch with all the bearings in place, you should have very minimal or no play at all. Like you say, when you spin the clutchbell, it will spin freely without touching the clutchshoes.

Sometimes it is necessary to add shims between the clutchnut and the bearing as per Step 8.7 to take out most of the end play.
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:47 PM   #2669
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Quote:
Originally posted by GoldFinger

This week I finish third in our local Lola shell race, but with 710
Its kinda hard you know, to go back to my 705 after cruising with this new snake.
GoldFinger, can you tell us how you mounted the Lola on the 710?

I know someone mentioned reversing the rear bodypost and then just using the 705 Lola bumper but I was wondering if you have done it differently.

Thanks
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Old 01-05-2004, 11:52 PM   #2670
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Originally posted by InitialD
Ummm, I think I've repeated this many times already.
Told you a personal website which captures all the stuff you know and searcheable is better

... and if you really want to be "interactive" set-up a small forum on the site too. Imagine that D, you get to moderate !
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