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Old 11-20-2003, 06:09 PM   #1156
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Originally posted by Diesel Racer
Congratulations InitialD.

Tech Champion.
Yeah, how I wish that was true on the track too...
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Old 11-20-2003, 06:10 PM   #1157
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I still remember like 4-5 years ago, ammdrew was one of the few that can opened up the Impulse SS and shared his setup thru the net forum.
Yes, it was Andrew on the old non HPI forum that taught all of us what is droop, weight transfer and all that shit that is still stuck in my head !! Many thanks to him !

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Originally posted by Rookie Solara
I still remembered my buddy and I will only race our Impulse SS with Ammdrew's hand made foam tires only...........definitely not cheap from him back then, but somehow there were no foams like that and they were well worth the price and wait.
Yeah, Impact foams on Impulse rims ! But I believe the foams on 1/8th scale and on the Impact are different. They give better traction while giving you long wearing tires especially when run on a 1/10th scale TC !
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Old 11-20-2003, 06:11 PM   #1158
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D
I want to know when you actually find time to work on your cars.
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Old 11-20-2003, 06:15 PM   #1159
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
this is more of a problem for an engine without the aid of tuned pipe pressure
Ummm, perhaps but with the G4, almost everybody has the fuel pickup problem. I don't know how Josh Cyrul solves his but a lot of guys change their tanks to a different one and the fuel problem miraculously went away... Sounds like another NTC3 tank problem to me !
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Old 11-20-2003, 06:16 PM   #1160
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
So is it common to use more rear downstop when running with a oneway? I always have trouble getting my car to break straight when running a one-way, even though I check for tweak with a tweak station. InitialD already pointed out that I should check the downstops to make sure they are perfectly equal. Any other tips there? I should mention, that I do run very little break, so I'm not really hitting the breaks hard either
Just to reiterate, by Julius saying more rear downstop would mean less shock travel. On the droop gauge, that would mean +6 to +8 for example.

Yes, with a one way, more rear downstop as Julius says would make the rear break less under braking. It limits the weight from transfering to the front. This may be good on huge tracks but on smaller ones, you may probably need more turn in or more weight transfered to the front. So that would say that you need to strike a balance.
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Old 11-20-2003, 06:21 PM   #1161
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
D
I want to know when you actually find time to work on your cars.
Work on cars? Nah... It's a Serpent. No maintenance work required !

Not to blow my trumpet or anything but seriously, I used to work a lot on the car with setup and all. Learned a lot too. But now, I don't even need to check the settings. I just clean the car (unlike somebody who uses Photoshop filters ! ) from weekend to weekend racing with little maitenance here and there. The settings still stay true after a few hard races.
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Old 11-20-2003, 06:21 PM   #1162
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Default Re: Re: New pinions and spurs

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Originally posted by donorato
About the new pinions and spurs, Is there any difference between two equal relations, one with old style big teeth, and same relation with the new smaller teeth??.

Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
The 710 spots a finer pitch (0.8 module) of pinions and spurs while the 705 is still using the older coarser ones.
I guess the question is if (for example) using 15/50 with coarse pitch is the same as using 30/100 with finer pitch. In both cases the relation is 3.33. In other words, Does the smaller teeth have any intrinsic advantage over the bigger ones?
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Old 11-20-2003, 06:30 PM   #1163
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Default Re: Re: Re: New pinions and spurs

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Originally posted by Fernando_M
I guess the question is if (for example) using 15/50 with coarse pitch is the same as using 30/100 with finer pitch. In both cases the relation is 3.33. In other words, Does the smaller teeth have any intrinsic advantage over the bigger ones?
Of course there's an advantage ! Just like electric cars (not that I know anything), higher pitch gears have better transmission efficiency. So you could jump higher tooth from 1st to 2nd gear and not feel the engine bog down too much !

If you look at the NTC3 (despite the fact it has a smoother shaft drivetrain), you wonder how could they jump 7 teeths in the gearing...

My guess is that with the new 0.8 module gearing, you can afford to jump 4 to 5 teeth easily on the pinions and spurs unlike on the older gearing where you would use the 3 or 4 teeth rule of thumb.

The downside of a finer tooth pitch is the teeths wear faster. So hopefully with Serpent's excellent plastic, the gears would not strip easily too much.
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Old 11-20-2003, 07:00 PM   #1164
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Master D


When do you have time to worl on your cars!?!?





Congrats!!
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Old 11-20-2003, 07:10 PM   #1165
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Default Re: Re: Re: New pinions and spurs

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Originally posted by Fernando_M
I guess the question is if (for example) using 15/50 with coarse pitch is the same as using 30/100 with finer pitch. In both cases the relation is 3.33. In other words, Does the smaller teeth have any intrinsic advantage over the bigger ones?
D is right about the advantage of running 0.8 module gearing.
He is also right about the down side of the finer pitch gearing.

I've been running Serpent for about 4yrs now with never stripping or damaged a spur gear with the lager pitch. With other Mfg's that is not the case......always seeing them strip. I also hope that Serpent's plastic this trend still continued.
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Old 11-20-2003, 07:38 PM   #1166
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The plastic used by Serpent is the best in the industry. I damaged the spur gear was due to the shifting point not properly adjusted. On the contrary, I have to stock some spur gears for my NTC3 whenever practice or during race.
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Old 11-20-2003, 07:58 PM   #1167
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
D
I want to know when you actually find time to work on your cars.
I have been wondering the same thing....
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Old 11-20-2003, 08:05 PM   #1168
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
I think you and Fredrik should try Speedmind dished tires. Their foams last longer and their rims do not crack and bend. Good for the Ft Myer's boards !
We would, except I just cleaned out Harmony model's shop of the dished Ellegis. Had to buy extra bag as carry on, full with tires...
Customs guy: So, what do you have in that bag?
Fmolzer, Nothing
Customs guy: But it is full of something, what is it?
Fmolzer: Ohh these hockey puck looking thingys are acctually just packaging material for this cute little model engine I have there in the middle.
Customs guy: That model engine thing looks spendy, aren't you supposed to declare it?
Fmolzer: No sir, acctually it is an old engine with no value whatsoever. I got for free, see, it says NovaMax, they stopped making these years ago. Can I go now?
Customs guy: Oh, hmm I guess so.
Fmolzer: Made it through again !
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Old 11-20-2003, 08:10 PM   #1169
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yes, it was Andrew on the old non HPI forum that taught all of us what is droop, weight transfer and all that shit that is still stuck in my head !! Many thanks to him !

I never knew I was teaming up with a forums racing legend. I will have to ask him to sign my trophy when I beat him next time.
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Old 11-20-2003, 08:19 PM   #1170
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Quote:
Originally posted by fmolzer
I have been wondering the same thing....
As someone said in earlier page, that he was a undercovered serpent teamdriver so he do not need to touch his car just telling this and that and his mechanic will do...

Congrats for your new title Master D..
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