The reason they do it in China (Shanghai) is to make R/C market more competitive and how it should be run/capable of.

Hi Sir.. thanks again for the 3+mins journey with your JP FX Still looking for the brand new p/s to sent you.

About the KO... in fashion now, handles great, and will also make distributor happy... no reason for not using. In fact, we just requested a special edition left handed for Goldfinger

Now... tell me more in detail, what did they do to their RRR after Bali Open? I heard they can do it in 3mm?

If you mean the Kyosho RRR, I think no other car can beat it's cornering speed at this moment. Clutch system and gearing also improved. And what do you mean by they can do it in 3mm?

Left handed and don't forget some special modification which can hold his cigarette while racing

Curent situation on my table

I hope this 710 will drive again ... maybe

Your partner said they lowered the top deck by 3mm.

I am still in the rpocess of building my 710 and I got the new sway bar (2.5+3mm). I am not sure how to get this thing on. Is thier any instructions anywhere? Also should i use the 2.5 or 3mm bar? I run mostly a big track with pretty good traction. Thanx

Yeah... Don't forget in red colour also.

If I'm not mistaken, you don't run it witht he diff collar right? The rear ball diff just like the old 705 days...

Yeah... I saw that you ran with 61 mm front and 63.5 mm rears which would make it 1:1 overdrive using the 46T rear diff.

So you started with 2.5 mm split and ended with 2 mm split? That's nice to know.

Just get a weird crystal... That should partially solve the problem. Anyway, using Li-Polys on Tx is a lot of weight savings but don't you think using them in radios like Helios or the 3PK will upset the balance that is suppose to be designed by the engineers when using normal 8 x AA size batteries? Not to mention expensive and plus the fact that you need to get a proper charger that will charge Li-Poly if you do not have one.

I don't think there are any instructions... Just look at the pics at mytsn.

A small note. Make sure when you install it, it's centered left and right. Makes sure the end of the sway bar linkage does not touch the rear upper arms on suspension compression when you set the sway bar to connect the outer hole of the lower rear arm. If I'm not mistaken, you need to set it about 2 to 3 mm from the end of the bar to "clear" the upper rear arm.

Perhaps you should try stock setup with the thin 2 mm sway bar first to see how it suits your track. Then change to the thicker rear sway bar (either 2.5 or 3 mm).

Thanx for the link. It helped out alot . I think i will use the new swaybar. Some guys at the track I run at says it works better.

Thanx again

They do work very well - the only time I've gone back to the normal swaybar was for the Winternats....but there was simply toooooo much traction there.

Let us know how it works out for you.

Cheers, Mark.

It doesnt mention this in the manual but when I put the arm on the steering servo do I need to angle it at all? I remember on the NTC3 the instructions said to angle it a tad. Just checking. Thanx again guys.

one more thing. The spacers that come with the kit (i believe one is 5mm and one is 2mm) do i use both of those or just a 5mm or 2mm? I am using futaba servos for steering and throttle.

Actually, the manual says the arm should be 90 degree with respect to the horizontal body of the servo. Just lean the arm forward a little if you're using a Futaba servo so that the servo arm does not bind with the linkage when doing a max left end point steering throw (i.e servo arm moving towards the tank).

But to get the left and right steering centered at neutral when you lean the servo arm forward, you need to shorten the linkage from servo saver to servo arm from 44.5 mm (stated in the manual) to about 39.5 mm thereabouts from end to end.

What spacers are these alucard13? Plastic or aluminum?

Plastic.

You mean the ones that you use to "shim" and space for the steering servo? I forgot what I used... I guess you just use it so that the steering servo arm aligns nicely along it's movements...