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Old 08-16-2005, 12:47 PM   #22066
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Originally Posted by Greg M



There has been mention of rear roll centers, so I had a look at mine and found it was as low as it could go, so have gone with Julius's recommendation, which seems to be the same as Initial D's if I understand correctly. The lovely Serpent setup book says to increase rear roll center to get more initial turn in. Will give it a try this weekend.



Sorry of topic but have you got racing at new plymouth this weekend?
Yes, racing this weekend if its not raining. I don't like our chances as its rainind on just about every race day since April, the 710 has barely hit the track!
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Old 08-17-2005, 04:06 AM   #22067
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Originally Posted by nitro rookie
This is where I got my flyweights mod from:
http://www.daltonshop.com/tips_tricks.htm
Hope this is what your looking for.
I dont think that`s what fulcrum2 meant. It is something like this.. but instead of flyweight, you can also cut the clutch shoe,

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Old 08-17-2005, 04:35 AM   #22068
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[QUOTE=Pyramid]I dont think that`s what fulcrum2 meant. It is something like this.. but instead of flyweight, you can also cut the clutch shoe,

I must have missed something. what is the advantage of this set-up?
I am still using the set-up recommended by Rick V back in Thailand.. I guess I am way behind
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Old 08-17-2005, 05:15 AM   #22069
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Originally Posted by kitracer
I must have missed something. what is the advantage of this set-up?
I am still using the set-up recommended by Rick V back in Thailand.. I guess I am way behind
More (as pictured is the most) punch but less consistance (at when the gear should shift).
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Old 08-17-2005, 11:48 PM   #22070
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@Pyramid



Many thanks for the pic! That´s almost what I´ve been looking for. Meanwhile I found that MarkP has some pics of the InitalD mod included in the latest FAQ´s.

I can seet that you have grub screws installed in the flyweight´s. Is this an improvement over the original mod?
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Old 08-18-2005, 01:19 AM   #22071
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Originally Posted by fulcrum2
@Pyramid



Many thanks for the pic! That´s almost what I´ve been looking for. Meanwhile I found that MarkP has some pics of the InitalD mod included in the latest FAQ´s.

I can seet that you have grub screws installed in the flyweight´s. Is this an improvement over the original mod?
Here my last experience using modded flyweights.
Usually i use the weight just like Initiald/Pyramid posted, great punch !! and yes shifting point is a bit inconsistant. I guess Julius ever mentioned why is that happen.
In last Nats serie, im using the Glen Cauley style mod. Still producing good punch and did not effected. Using modded MEGA ZX12, my car/engine is really flying. My best time during heat is awesome, nobody near me almost .300 sec/lap. Except Pyramid...
Before final, i rebuild the centax. Anything is in good condition and I change the yellow clutch shoe.
Right after 1st refuelling, my mechanics put down my car when Im still put full throttle blip (yes.. this is bad). That is happen 3 or 4 refuelling times.
What happen is the car lost almost 30% of bottom torque. I guess the clutch is burnt already.
Final is over, and im checking what is happening.
Clutch is burnt slightly, some dark brown glazing on its surface but i dont think that cost me lost of torque. Check the flyweight and... there is 3 wieghts right ? the 2 weight is broke in 2 pieces, the 3rd wieght pin hole is oval already.
So for me, I would back to use the mod just like the picture that Pyramid posted.
Sorry for long reading.. good luck!
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Old 08-18-2005, 04:25 AM   #22072
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gear ratio table

Hi people.. Could anyone tell me how to read the info in the gear ratio/drive ratio tables. What does over/underdrive means. Which rates are good and which are bad? Thanx in advance...
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Old 08-18-2005, 05:32 AM   #22073
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Default which is better?

Is it better to put the grubscrews into mod flyweights than leaving the holes free?
Isnt it so that we drill the new holes to lighten them? So why do we put back the grubscrews to make them heavier again?
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Old 08-18-2005, 07:06 AM   #22074
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldFinger
Here my last experience using modded flyweights.
Usually i use the weight just like Initiald/Pyramid posted, great punch !! and yes shifting point is a bit inconsistant. I guess Julius ever mentioned why is that happen.
In last Nats serie, im using the Glen Cauley style mod. Still producing good punch and did not effected. Using modded MEGA ZX12, my car/engine is really flying. My best time during heat is awesome, nobody near me almost .300 sec/lap. Except Pyramid...
Before final, i rebuild the centax. Anything is in good condition and I change the yellow clutch shoe.
Right after 1st refuelling, my mechanics put down my car when Im still put full throttle blip (yes.. this is bad). That is happen 3 or 4 refuelling times.
What happen is the car lost almost 30% of bottom torque. I guess the clutch is burnt already.
Final is over, and im checking what is happening.
Clutch is burnt slightly, some dark brown glazing on its surface but i dont think that cost me lost of torque. Check the flyweight and... there is 3 wieghts right ? the 2 weight is broke in 2 pieces, the 3rd wieght pin hole is oval already.
So for me, I would back to use the mod just like the picture that Pyramid posted.
Sorry for long reading.. good luck!

Which Glen mod were you using? Was it the one with the grub screws in the flyweights with them still on the pins? I have used that clutch setup before and it worked very well for me.

Are you going to use the setup like Pyramid with the 2 grub screws? I thought Rick V. and others have said to lighten the flyweights by triming or drilling holes in them? I am so confused.

Thanks,
jag
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Old 08-18-2005, 08:32 AM   #22075
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Originally Posted by jag
Which Glen mod were you using? Was it the one with the grub screws in the flyweights with them still on the pins? I have used that clutch setup before and it worked very well for me.
Yes, that mods.
Should be okay then...
Just make sure to check it before main.
Especially when you are using aggresive (more than 1.4mm) tension clutch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Are you going to use the setup like Pyramid with the 2 grub screws? I thought Rick V. and others have said to lighten the flyweights by triming or drilling holes in them? I am so confused.

Thanks,
jag
Yap, 2 grub screw. At least this mod never gave me any trouble. I can live with earlier shifting.
Dont be confused.. just Listen To Your Heart.. which one is best for you.
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Old 08-18-2005, 10:56 AM   #22076
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro rookie
In regards to shock pistons:
I've been seeing posting about a 1.2 mm hole piston. Is this a mod people have been doing, or a piston I should look into getting? If someone has a part number please post it so I can get them.

Thanks in advance.
I don't know if there ever was a new part number for this. They just made a running change and added them (together with the older 1.0mm piston holes) in the newer 710 kits.

I guess no point of creating a new part number specifically for the 1.2mm piston holes since the newer 960 shocks are more superior.

Anyway, mine was old. I modified the fixed type pistons (not the adjustable types as I found it too difficult) using a 1.2mm drill bit ! Like Julius suggest, mount the 1.2mm drill so that you could drill it by hand and not using a dremel ! More control that way since the piston is pretty small.
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Old 08-18-2005, 10:58 AM   #22077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Most of the "fast" guys are using a front one-way.
Yup. The fastest way around the track is with a oneway.

But then what good is a oneway for a particular driver when he can go fast on one lap with slow in the other? To be fast, you need to be consistant also. The front diff lets mere mortals like us to drive around the track consistantly without making stupid mistakes.
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Old 08-18-2005, 10:59 AM   #22078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
I don't know if Initial D runs his the same way.
Yes, I run the same rear roll center as Julius. I found it to be excellent in combination with the front diff.
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Old 08-18-2005, 11:01 AM   #22079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PINCIR
Hi people.. Could anyone tell me how to read the info in the gear ratio/drive ratio tables. What does over/underdrive means. Which rates are good and which are bad? Thanx in advance...
Overdrive means front pulling the rear. Underdrive means rear pushing the front. The numbers less than 1 is underdrive while numbers more than 1 is overdrive.

By default, you need about 1mm smaller front tires so that the overdrive ratio is 1:1 (which mean no underdrive or overdrive) on the 710. This means the tire rollout the front tires produce (1mm less in diameter than the rear tires) is equal to the tire rollout the rear tires produce.

For long races, you may want to use a little more underdrive like 2 or even 3mm smaller front tires so that by the end of a long main, your front and rear tires would come back in wearing in equal diameters.

BTW, do you know that you can change the default overdrives on the car by using the new optional 21T front side aluminum pulley or use a slightly bigger 46T rear diff pulley (stock 45T) from the Serpent 705?
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Old 08-18-2005, 11:06 AM   #22080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jag
Are you going to use the setup like Pyramid with the 2 grub screws? I thought Rick V. and others have said to lighten the flyweights by triming or drilling holes in them? I am so confused.
Jag, don't be confused. The extra hole I drilled on the flyweight is to mount the M3x4 grub screw. Nothing more and since I took the grub screws out, I left it that way.

Also, you need to cut the stock flyweights because you need to fit them in BETWEEN the flywheel pivot pins. I guess this makes it lighter but the reason why we cut them up is so that they physically fit in betwen the pivot pins. No more, no less.

However, the one I mentioned about Rick V doing is to lighten the CLUTCH SHOE only by drilling dimples (not through holes into the clutch shoe which would make it pointless) at the back of the CLUTCH SHOE. Please read properly my previous post !
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