Serpent 710
Re: Servos
Originally posted by Darth Vader
Guys,
What's the recommended torque and speed required for throttle and steering servos on the 710?
Is it a must to use servo, TX, RX from the same company?
What are advantages/disadvantages of mixing brands?
Guys,
What's the recommended torque and speed required for throttle and steering servos on the 710?
Is it a must to use servo, TX, RX from the same company?
What are advantages/disadvantages of mixing brands?
As for mixing servos, I don't know of any problems and I don't think there should be any advantages/disadvantages except in the price.
Look more towards the weight, size and speed of the servos when making your choice. Most people like the steering servo to be very quick and the throttle to be a bit slower.
Here's a servo chart which shows a comparison between a good selection of different servos -> Servo Chart
Originally posted by InitialD
But give the MEGA a try. I keep hearing that stock out of the box, it blows out the competition and makes the playing field amongst the big boys level...
But give the MEGA a try. I keep hearing that stock out of the box, it blows out the competition and makes the playing field amongst the big boys level...
Re: Re: Servos
Originally posted by markp27
Here's a servo chart which shows a comparison between a good selection of different servos -> Servo Chart
Here's a servo chart which shows a comparison between a good selection of different servos -> Servo Chart
Re: Servos
Originally posted by Darth Vader
Guys,
What's the recommended torque and speed required for throttle and steering servos on the 710?
Is it a must to use servo, TX, RX from the same company?
What are advantages/disadvantages of mixing brands?
Guys,
What's the recommended torque and speed required for throttle and steering servos on the 710?
Is it a must to use servo, TX, RX from the same company?
What are advantages/disadvantages of mixing brands?
I myself am using KO 2144 (just died) on throttle and Futaba S9451 on steering. The 2144 is slower (0.13 s) but it's high torque 13 kg.
Anyway, I'm looking to replace it with a Sanwa WRX servo and swap the steering S9451 to throttle and use the WRX for steering. Oh yes, I'm using 3PK HRS for what it's worth.
Thanks guys, for the much appreciated advice...
Re: Re: Re: Servos
Originally posted by InitialD
Phew ! For the moment I thought it was Master Rene or Julius there...
Phew ! For the moment I thought it was Master Rene or Julius there...
Hi can any one tell me what is the difference between the Mega Power Pack M12 Race Outlaw and Mega Powerpack Legal ZX12 Race W/ZX12 Exhaust.
Bouth have the same price in RC-Mushroom.
Bouth have the same price in RC-Mushroom.
Originally posted by rcpanama
Hi can any one tell me what is the difference between the Mega Power Pack M12 Race Outlaw and Mega Powerpack Legal ZX12 Race W/ZX12 Exhaust.
Bouth have the same price in RC-Mushroom.
Hi can any one tell me what is the difference between the Mega Power Pack M12 Race Outlaw and Mega Powerpack Legal ZX12 Race W/ZX12 Exhaust.
Bouth have the same price in RC-Mushroom.
The legal version has to meet various criteria which is layed down by the governing body, be that IFMAR, EFRA, ROAR or whatever.
The outlaw version doesn't comply to these rules and can therefore be made more powerful by having items which the rules wouldn't allow.
But if you want to race, unless there is a class for outlaw engines, then you want a race legal engine.
Cheers, Mark.
Re: Re: Re: Kawahara dogbones
Originally posted by InitialD
On Kawahara's website, it mentions ZF-143 instead of ZF-142...
Glenn, where did you get this Kawahara part? How much?
On Kawahara's website, it mentions ZF-143 instead of ZF-142...
Glenn, where did you get this Kawahara part? How much?
Here are a pic of the Kawahara dogbones used first by Glenn and now by me.
There 3.2 mm thick; total length are 65 mm and the length between pins are 59 mm. I am sure if it alu or steel, but my feeling is they are alu.
Regards
Claus
Tech Regular
Originally posted by InitialD
Yup. Hudy does not make this tool anymore. The tool that you're looking for is 106000.
For me, I just do the hammer and the anvil trick... Bang the pins through and use a nail puncher to push the pin through. Tip given by the mighty Julius.
I found it really depends on the support of the dogbone. I use an old Hudy tool, but it's no longer available I think. Another good way is using an old motor mount or alu block with a 3.5-4mm hole in it. It supports the ball of the dogbone on a larger area than the jaws of a vice.
If you want to get really hobbyistic. Take a alu block about 10mm high, drill a 3.5mm hole all the way through and then takr a countersink and make a dip in th top so the dogbone has good support. This block is placed on a good heavy vice with slightly open jaws. Hammer away!
Once the pin is flush with the ball you'll need a pin that is slightly smaller than 3mm to push it out. I think you'll find stuff like that in the hardware store. One of these pins to push headless nails into wood work well.
Yup. Hudy does not make this tool anymore. The tool that you're looking for is 106000.
For me, I just do the hammer and the anvil trick... Bang the pins through and use a nail puncher to push the pin through. Tip given by the mighty Julius.
I found it really depends on the support of the dogbone. I use an old Hudy tool, but it's no longer available I think. Another good way is using an old motor mount or alu block with a 3.5-4mm hole in it. It supports the ball of the dogbone on a larger area than the jaws of a vice.
If you want to get really hobbyistic. Take a alu block about 10mm high, drill a 3.5mm hole all the way through and then takr a countersink and make a dip in th top so the dogbone has good support. This block is placed on a good heavy vice with slightly open jaws. Hammer away!
Once the pin is flush with the ball you'll need a pin that is slightly smaller than 3mm to push it out. I think you'll find stuff like that in the hardware store. One of these pins to push headless nails into wood work well.
Thanks D :-)
Originally posted by markp27
Don't ask anyone here about spelling we all make a lot of mistakes
Don't ask anyone here about spelling we all make a lot of mistakes
Re: Pyramid
Originally posted by InitialD
How is this setup different than the one you're always using? Mind sharing? Thanks.
http://www.mytsn.com/setups/setup.asp?sid=2821
How is this setup different than the one you're always using? Mind sharing? Thanks.
http://www.mytsn.com/setups/setup.asp?sid=2821
There will be a race in Shanghai on 3-4/May.. plan to come? Those ussual factory guys we meet in Thailand are expected to be there as well.
Re: Re: Pyramid
Looks like you have been really busy lately...
Same here... Anyway I find that with the solid front, you get more consistant laps. Well, not exactly as fast as when running a oneway front...
Useful I think if you're doing a long main and especially useful if you are chasing the leader or have to drive more aggressively to pressure someone in the front...
Yes, I find I get a more stable on throttle steering as well compared to oneways...
True. On large and open tracks, it's pretty nice to have automatic drag brakes... We're now driving on a more small and technical track and you can quickly notice that off power steering really suffers with a solid front when you need to take the tight turn.
I found using a higher rear roll center cures the problem a little as the rear of the car rotates around the corner better.
I guess you're on throttle more than with oneways in which you can glide more in the infields.
China is pretty far off. With Thailand, we could use cheaper airlines to get our butts there...
A few more questions about your setup bro...
1. I noticed you tightened the rear diff fully also? That would make it front AND rear solid... No?
2. Did you use 46T rear diff with the front solid? Perhaps that's why you did not notice so much loss in off power steering...
3. How's the tire wear? I find running front solid gives really even tire wear even without running front overdrives... Useful I think if you're doing a long main.
4. Hey, perhaps your good result is due to using the KO Helios !
Originally posted by Pyramid
With one ways, I just can`t keep a close distance with someone in front of me otherwise either I hit them before entering a corner or get hit from behind because my car spins from the results of breaking with 1ways.
With one ways, I just can`t keep a close distance with someone in front of me otherwise either I hit them before entering a corner or get hit from behind because my car spins from the results of breaking with 1ways.
Useful I think if you're doing a long main and especially useful if you are chasing the leader or have to drive more aggressively to pressure someone in the front...
Originally posted by Pyramid
That`s the only reason I try running solid which in fact give me more on throttle steering in sweeper as well.
That`s the only reason I try running solid which in fact give me more on throttle steering in sweeper as well.
Originally posted by Pyramid
Off throtlle is not as bad as I tough it would be since with solid I`m automatically having a perfect drag brake either.
Off throtlle is not as bad as I tough it would be since with solid I`m automatically having a perfect drag brake either.
I found using a higher rear roll center cures the problem a little as the rear of the car rotates around the corner better.
Originally posted by Pyramid
Just notice after the race, I think solid gave me less fuel milage (compared to our team member, kris heriana who prefer running one way). He can do refuelling about 20secs after.
Just notice after the race, I think solid gave me less fuel milage (compared to our team member, kris heriana who prefer running one way). He can do refuelling about 20secs after.
Originally posted by Pyramid
There will be a race in Shanghai on 3-4/May.. plan to come? Those ussual factory guys we meet in Thailand are expected to be there as well.
There will be a race in Shanghai on 3-4/May.. plan to come? Those ussual factory guys we meet in Thailand are expected to be there as well.
A few more questions about your setup bro...
1. I noticed you tightened the rear diff fully also? That would make it front AND rear solid... No?
2. Did you use 46T rear diff with the front solid? Perhaps that's why you did not notice so much loss in off power steering...
3. How's the tire wear? I find running front solid gives really even tire wear even without running front overdrives... Useful I think if you're doing a long main.
4. Hey, perhaps your good result is due to using the KO Helios !
Re: Re: Pyramid
Originally posted by Pyramid
There will be a race in Shanghai on 3-4/May.. plan to come? Those ussual factory guys we meet in Thailand are expected to be there as well.
There will be a race in Shanghai on 3-4/May.. plan to come? Those ussual factory guys we meet in Thailand are expected to be there as well.
Re: Re: Re: Pyramid
Originally posted by InitialD
1. I noticed you tightened the rear diff fully also? That would make it front AND rear solid... No?
1. I noticed you tightened the rear diff fully also? That would make it front AND rear solid... No?
Originally posted by InitialD
2. Did you use 46T rear diff with the front solid? Perhaps that's why you did not notice so much loss in off power steering...
2. Did you use 46T rear diff with the front solid? Perhaps that's why you did not notice so much loss in off power steering...
Originally posted by InitialD
3. How's the tire wear? I find running front solid gives really even tire wear even without running front overdrives... Useful I think if you're doing a long main.
3. How's the tire wear? I find running front solid gives really even tire wear even without running front overdrives... Useful I think if you're doing a long main.
Originally posted by InitialD
4. Hey, perhaps your good result is due to using the KO Helios !
4. Hey, perhaps your good result is due to using the KO Helios !