Serpent 710
Originally posted by InitialD
Yeah, wear a kilt or sarong and meditate in the Scottish hills.
Yeah, wear a kilt or sarong and meditate in the Scottish hills.
No doubt chasing after Haggis
Originally posted by Juan C Munoz
I bought a Serpent 710 a couple of weeks ago. But there is only one problem... Where do I put the switch ??
I bought a Serpent 710 a couple of weeks ago. But there is only one problem... Where do I put the switch ??
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Re parts
Originally posted by InitialD
That does not count because that's not Serpent's.
That does not count because that's not Serpent's.
But what is the one piece engine mount suppose to do? Better heat transfer? More rigid / less flexing in the engine underside?
Originally posted by InitialD
They are a few DIYs here and there for the switch mount but most of us don't use a switch. Safer that way. Just use a servo extender to plug in and out the receiver pack.
They are a few DIYs here and there for the switch mount but most of us don't use a switch. Safer that way. Just use a servo extender to plug in and out the receiver pack.
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=9569&ccid=9
Juan, check out the FAQ for links to the rest of Glenn's articles.
Cheers, Mark.
Originally posted by Pyramid
Lithium Polymer bateries, uses on all current mobile phone on the market today
Lithium Polymer bateries, uses on all current mobile phone on the market today
Originally posted by markp27
Uh oh!!! hadn't thought of it like that
Uh oh!!! hadn't thought of it like that
Originally posted by markp27
D, I think Sow has had a stroke or something - he's talking strange!
D, I think Sow has had a stroke or something - he's talking strange!
Re: Speedy
Originally posted by 840918001
The thread is going on high speed today
The thread is going on high speed today
Originally posted by Pyramid
came accross this pictures when browsing for LHS in Japan,
came to re-realize, Europe.. still the standard of performance car
came accross this pictures when browsing for LHS in Japan,
came to re-realize, Europe.. still the standard of performance car
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
... and notice the Toni & Guy haircut with Moogen grease on it!
... and notice the Toni & Guy haircut with Moogen grease on it!
Mugen Grease.
Originally posted by markp27
I blame D
I blame D
Originally posted by Pyramid
D. in case you still have not got the answer about race brake pad question.. I got the change to try it last week, it is more consistance and yes they make the car brake staighter than the stock. Still, if full brake applied using a one way it wil lock, but defintely straighter.
D. in case you still have not got the answer about race brake pad question.. I got the change to try it last week, it is more consistance and yes they make the car brake staighter than the stock. Still, if full brake applied using a one way it wil lock, but defintely straighter.
Originally posted by nitro rookie
I am getting A (1.67) - B (1.44) - 0.7 = -.47
I am getting A (1.67) - B (1.44) - 0.7 = -.47
Else, you could also set a smaller gap of say 0.5 mm. In which case the formula would be;
A (xxx) - B (yyy) - 0.5 = zzz (thickness of shims that you need to put in the front of the Centax clutch).
Re: Li-poly
Originally posted by 840918001
The Li-poly batteries availeble now are not a good option for use in now-days racingcars.
The Li-poly batteries availeble now are not a good option for use in now-days racingcars.
Originally posted by 840918001
The electronics used need more power as a mobile phone.
Besides, it's very difficult to charge them with the current chargers.
The electronics used need more power as a mobile phone.
Besides, it's very difficult to charge them with the current chargers.
Originally posted by 840918001
If you're looking for more power, and longer and more ennergy I would go for NiMH cells for use in camera's and photocamera's.
They are the same size as the regular AA batteries, but have more ennergy. Their mostly around 2100 or 2300 Mah, but the voltage is lower, 1.2 You can build your own packs, you'll only need small lips (orion makes them) and an extremely hot soldering iron ( 50W or up) so you can get the job done very quick, so you don't overheat the cells.
If you're looking for more power, and longer and more ennergy I would go for NiMH cells for use in camera's and photocamera's.
They are the same size as the regular AA batteries, but have more ennergy. Their mostly around 2100 or 2300 Mah, but the voltage is lower, 1.2 You can build your own packs, you'll only need small lips (orion makes them) and an extremely hot soldering iron ( 50W or up) so you can get the job done very quick, so you don't overheat the cells.
Originally posted by packetdreamer
measuring downstops and other suspension settings, do you measure the steeringblocks or the bottoms of the arms?
measuring downstops and other suspension settings, do you measure the steeringblocks or the bottoms of the arms?
Are you getting inconsistant droop readings? Just a thought. It may be due to your worned out chassis.
On mine, I found that since I run on clockwise tracks, the left side of the chassis gets eaten out faster than the right side. So left side can be like 3.5 mm while the right side is 4 mm thick.
Putting the droop gauge block support under this worned out part and taking same droop readings left and right would give you less droop on the left than on the right side of the arm even though you set the droop on the droop gauge to be "equal" left and right.