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Old 09-09-2004, 11:46 PM   #15451
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
Yeah, wear a kilt or sarong and meditate in the Scottish hills.


No doubt chasing after Haggis
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:50 PM   #15452
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Quote:
Originally posted by Juan C Munoz
I bought a Serpent 710 a couple of weeks ago. But there is only one problem... Where do I put the switch ??
They are a few DIYs here and there for the switch mount but most of us don't use a switch. Safer that way. Just use a servo extender to plug in and out the receiver pack.
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:50 PM   #15453
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
That does not count because that's not Serpent's.
And what's with that piece of carbon on your car where the serpent part should be

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But what is the one piece engine mount suppose to do? Better heat transfer? More rigid / less flexing in the engine underside?
Maybe reduce the twisting force which is applied to the chassis. Heat transfer would be minimal.
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:53 PM   #15454
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Quote:
Originally posted by InitialD
They are a few DIYs here and there for the switch mount but most of us don't use a switch. Safer that way. Just use a servo extender to plug in and out the receiver pack.
And if he really wants one, then look no further than Glenn's articles:

http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=9569&ccid=9

Juan, check out the FAQ for links to the rest of Glenn's articles.

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:54 PM   #15455
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
Lithium Polymer bateries, uses on all current mobile phone on the market today
Yes, that's why Mark can get GSM connection on all of his cars.
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:55 PM   #15456
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
Uh oh!!! hadn't thought of it like that
Don't mind Onkel Sow the Instigator.
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:56 PM   #15457
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
D, I think Sow has had a stroke or something - he's talking strange!
I think it's caused by power overload from the RING. Circuits on board are not new to handle all the power.
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:56 PM   #15458
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Default Re: Speedy

Quote:
Originally posted by 840918001
The thread is going on high speed today
Everybody is running JP and Max engines nowadays... Making things worse by taking off carb restrictors...
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:57 PM   #15459
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
came accross this pictures when browsing for LHS in Japan,



came to re-realize, Europe.. still the standard of performance car
Is that a JP or a Kondo under the hood?
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:58 PM   #15460
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
... and notice the Toni & Guy haircut with Moogen grease on it!
ROTL

Mugen Grease.
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Old 09-09-2004, 11:59 PM   #15461
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I blame D
#(*^%$)(*&%()*
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Old 09-10-2004, 12:01 AM   #15462
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pyramid
D. in case you still have not got the answer about race brake pad question.. I got the change to try it last week, it is more consistance and yes they make the car brake staighter than the stock. Still, if full brake applied using a one way it wil lock, but defintely straighter.
Cool. Thanks. I guess I need to get that now.
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Old 09-10-2004, 12:02 AM   #15463
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Quote:
Originally posted by nitro rookie
I am getting A (1.67) - B (1.44) - 0.7 = -.47
Assuming you measured it correctly with all the parts seating nicely, you probably have too much shims BEHIND the flywheel (in between the front engine bearing and the brass collet). What are you using? 0.5 mm shim as per the manual?

Else, you could also set a smaller gap of say 0.5 mm. In which case the formula would be;

A (xxx) - B (yyy) - 0.5 = zzz (thickness of shims that you need to put in the front of the Centax clutch).
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Old 09-10-2004, 12:02 AM   #15464
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Default Re: Li-poly

Quote:
Originally posted by 840918001
The Li-poly batteries availeble now are not a good option for use in now-days racingcars.
Agreed that it's not a good option because you need to get a reduce the voltage from 7.4 V (2 x 3.7 V) to 6V for use with our receivers and servos.

Quote:
Originally posted by 840918001
The electronics used need more power as a mobile phone.
Besides, it's very difficult to charge them with the current chargers.
There are stand alone Li-Poly chargers that you can get.

Quote:
Originally posted by 840918001
If you're looking for more power, and longer and more ennergy I would go for NiMH cells for use in camera's and photocamera's.
They are the same size as the regular AA batteries, but have more ennergy. Their mostly around 2100 or 2300 Mah, but the voltage is lower, 1.2 You can build your own packs, you'll only need small lips (orion makes them) and an extremely hot soldering iron ( 50W or up) so you can get the job done very quick, so you don't overheat the cells.
How do you fit the 5 x AA batteries in the 710?
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Old 09-10-2004, 12:04 AM   #15465
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Quote:
Originally posted by packetdreamer
measuring downstops and other suspension settings, do you measure the steeringblocks or the bottoms of the arms?
Bottom of the steering blocks as per the manual.

Are you getting inconsistant droop readings? Just a thought. It may be due to your worned out chassis.

On mine, I found that since I run on clockwise tracks, the left side of the chassis gets eaten out faster than the right side. So left side can be like 3.5 mm while the right side is 4 mm thick.

Putting the droop gauge block support under this worned out part and taking same droop readings left and right would give you less droop on the left than on the right side of the arm even though you set the droop on the droop gauge to be "equal" left and right.
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