Serpent 710
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 251
Hi,
The Li-poly batteries availeble now are not a good option for use in now-days racingcars.
The electronics used need more power as a mobile phone.
Besides, it's very difficult to charge them with the current chargers.
If you're looking for more power, and longer and more ennergy I would go for NiMH cells for use in camera's and photocamera's.
They are the same size as the regular AA batteries, but have more ennergy. Their mostly around 2100 or 2300 Mah, but the voltage is lower, 1.2 You can build your own packs, you'll only need small lips (orion makes them) and an extremely hot soldering iron ( 50W or up) so you can get the job done very quick, so you don't overheat the cells.
There are to negative sids about these cells.
They are more heavy then the regular ones used.
They are expensive.
Thomas
Lithium Polymer bateries, uses on all current mobile phone on the market today
The electronics used need more power as a mobile phone.
Besides, it's very difficult to charge them with the current chargers.
If you're looking for more power, and longer and more ennergy I would go for NiMH cells for use in camera's and photocamera's.
They are the same size as the regular AA batteries, but have more ennergy. Their mostly around 2100 or 2300 Mah, but the voltage is lower, 1.2 You can build your own packs, you'll only need small lips (orion makes them) and an extremely hot soldering iron ( 50W or up) so you can get the job done very quick, so you don't overheat the cells.
There are to negative sids about these cells.
They are more heavy then the regular ones used.
They are expensive.
Thomas
Originally posted by 840918001
Hi,
The Li-poly batteries availeble now are not a good option for use in now-days racingcars.
The electronics used need more power as a mobile phone.
Besides, it's very difficult to charge them with the current chargers.
If you're looking for more power, and longer and more ennergy I would go for NiMH cells for use in camera's and photocamera's.
They are the same size as the regular AA batteries, but have more ennergy. Their mostly around 2100 or 2300 Mah, but the voltage is lower, 1.2 You can build your own packs, you'll only need small lips (orion makes them) and an extremely hot soldering iron ( 50W or up) so you can get the job done very quick, so you don't overheat the cells.
There are to negative sids about these cells.
They are more heavy then the regular ones used.
They are expensive.
Thomas
Hi,
The Li-poly batteries availeble now are not a good option for use in now-days racingcars.
The electronics used need more power as a mobile phone.
Besides, it's very difficult to charge them with the current chargers.
If you're looking for more power, and longer and more ennergy I would go for NiMH cells for use in camera's and photocamera's.
They are the same size as the regular AA batteries, but have more ennergy. Their mostly around 2100 or 2300 Mah, but the voltage is lower, 1.2 You can build your own packs, you'll only need small lips (orion makes them) and an extremely hot soldering iron ( 50W or up) so you can get the job done very quick, so you don't overheat the cells.
There are to negative sids about these cells.
They are more heavy then the regular ones used.
They are expensive.
Thomas
Sounds like I better just stick to my current ones ... Sanyo 800 mAh AAA cells. I've used these continously in 1 hour mains without problems.
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
... subject to available grip, different throttle input (Analog Driving is my term) imparts different centrifugal and centripetal forces which varies weight transfer that proportinally relates to bite side bite/grip of your tyres?
... subject to available grip, different throttle input (Analog Driving is my term) imparts different centrifugal and centripetal forces which varies weight transfer that proportinally relates to bite side bite/grip of your tyres?
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
It has nothing to do with end-play or dirty bearings Mark. Its the JP, you really should pass that engine to me so I can check it and ensure that your ceramic bearings never gets harm again.
It has nothing to do with end-play or dirty bearings Mark. Its the JP, you really should pass that engine to me so I can check it and ensure that your ceramic bearings never gets harm again.
Originally posted by Schrijver99
And what about the one-piece engine mount!
I've had it in my hands last friday, but there was only one and i wasn't the first, so i have to wait for friday to get mine. Forgot the part nr but the price is cheaper than the X-bracket
And what about the one-piece engine mount!
I've had it in my hands last friday, but there was only one and i wasn't the first, so i have to wait for friday to get mine. Forgot the part nr but the price is cheaper than the X-bracket
More metal to buy
Originally posted by Pyramid
I see what you meant... they are ok now.. thanks
I see what you meant... they are ok now.. thanks
That's what one has to do when one loses the battle of who's got the most orange metal bits.




hadn't thought of it like that