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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
(Post 9895225)
Wassup guys!
Plastic diff gears? ftw! That's what happens when Swauger isn't testing for Mugen. I bet he could shred those in one tank! :p Not enough turn in? What body are you guys running? Just remember... The pros don't have problems like some of us mere mortals. They can easily identify and work around any issues on a new car and make it perform. What we see as a design/manufacturing flaw is nothing more than a minor inconvinience for the pros. They see it, fix it (by any means necessary) and the problem disappears. We end up struggling with it and eventually one of us figures it out - or a pro takes pitty on us and gives us the fix. :sneaky: It's too bad that nitro has declined as much as it has in the U.S. I miss the "old crew" that did all the grunt work to figure things out make our lives easier. :( http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...rdiffSteel.jpg |
Originally Posted by FF25510
(Post 9831058)
Max as well:nod:, i will attend the biggest event of the year here in HK on Nov 5/6 an i will race with my MRX/MTX 5, hope to have something to post back here :sweat::smile:
http://www.redrc.net/2011/11/kurzbuc...en/#more-48923 a group photo http://i699.photobucket.com/albums/v...1105085300.jpg |
Originally Posted by stefan
(Post 9896679)
http://www.redrc.net/2011/11/km-mtx5...diff-gear-set/
http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...rdiffSteel.jpg http://mugenseiki.co.jp/mugen/t2227_t2228e.htm http://mugenseiki.co.jp/mugen/images...onal/t2227.jpg |
it seems liek the only gear that strips is the large crown gears right? the gear strips where the pin sits in??
if this is the only place it is stripping you could just change the large crown gears and use the steel ones leaving the other gears and shafts as the lighter original parts....or are people stripping the teeth of the gears also?:confused: |
The funny thing is that they are going from one extreme (plastic gears) to the other extreme (sleel gears). Insn't there a compromise with 7075 aluminium gears?
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My guess is dissimilar materials would make for a poor combo in a diff, I suspect the plastics would chew quickly working against metal.
Titanium would be nice, but then you can bet it would be expensive. Why not alloy?, my guess is cost, cast plastic can ok, as can cast steel, cast alloy is traditionally soft, you'd need machined alloy gears, which I'd guess would be expensive, like machined titanium, nice but would you pay for them?. |
Originally Posted by Bishop
(Post 9900832)
My guess is dissimilar materials would make for a poor combo in a diff, I suspect the plastics would chew quickly working against metal.
Titanium would be nice, but then you can bet it would be expensive. Why not alloy?, my guess is cost, cast plastic can ok, as can cast steel, cast alloy is traditionally soft, you'd need machined alloy gears, which I'd guess would be expensive, like machined titanium, nice but would you pay for them?. |
[QUOTE=TomB;9900705]it seems liek the only gear that strips is the large crown gears right? the gear strips where the pin sits in??
if this is the only place it is stripping you could just change the large crown gears and use the steel ones leaving the other gears and shafts as the lighter original parts....or are people stripping the teeth of the gears also?:confused:[/QUOTE That is the place it goes and it only occurs on the one side of the diff, i shimmed the end float out of that side by using the xray shim which is .3mm as opposed to the mugen one which is .2mm. I ran the car today with this shim in and it was fine:nod: |
Originally Posted by rocca30
(Post 9902769)
you would only need to buy them once.:tire::tire:
And even Titanium would wear, teeth meshing will always wear, hence why steel comes back to being the long option, everything else will wear out at some point a lot sooner. Really it's why I don't mind the plastic option so much, if they can make them last six months or so, cause last I checked they were about $5 to replace. |
i just checked my spare diff and there is no in and out play on my outdrive. also, i remember when i built my diff the pin was very tightly seated in the hole of the outdrive.
Am i right in assuming you only shim the pin out if there is play? I dead set had no play between the pin and outdrive when assembled:weird: |
mtx5
i have had mugens sinse mtx2 and hate matanace why take a diff that was unbrakebil an go and do this i have always said you can by a mugen and race it not like some ather brands i hate matince like i spell
car is very good my grandson tell me greg |
Originally Posted by Bishop
(Post 9902859)
Well that is kind of the bad part, cause with alloy my guess is even made with a good grade you would have to replace the gears once or twice a year, the alloy will wear, think of your pinion gears, even hard coated how long do they last?.
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Reciever box
How do you like the reciever box ?
Any body did a modification make a little bit harder ( no up n down movements)? Thanks. |
Originally Posted by PinoyCali
(Post 9906083)
How do you like the reciever box ?
Any body did a modification make a little bit harder ( no up n down movements)? Thanks. Only thing I'm not so keen on is the threads stripped out on two holes on the cover section of mine when building it, using barely any finger tip strength to put the tiny screws in. |
Originally Posted by Bishop
(Post 9906665)
Being able to flex around is likely a good thing, I known nitro cars are known to create issues with receivers when any vibrations from the car transfer into the radio gear.
Only thing I'm not so keen on is the threads stripped out on two holes on the cover section of mine when building it, using barely any finger tip strength to put the tiny screws in. |
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