At this point there is nothing from Mugen nor have I seen anything on the aftermarket side. If you want to test it try a wad of cleaning putty...

Steel diff gears #T2227 state side in a couple of weeks...
Steel cross shafts #T2228 not sure when these will show up...

That's why you're one of the best places for tech & parts,you read my mind on the steel gears:nod:

in about a month, confirmed by mugen racing usa

perhaps the nt1 plastic spool adapter fits???????

I'm done fitting the new Savox LP servos, thought some may want to see pics of it...

http://www.bishopsraceblog.com/?page_id=221

In the end like I said, was quite easy, carefully remove the outer section of the grommet (which may sacrifice some water proofing, but you could always smear on some silicone if your worried), and the servos just slide in, there is 'just' enough room, no idea if your using another brand servo...

Pretty cool set-up Bishop.

Watch the cable that rounded in servo. In case of a hit o don't imagine what will do.Check also the flexibility of that part.

CSO Released new option for MTX-5

i love the label, mtx-4 when its mtx-5 product... how r these parts ?

Third meeting for my MTX5, and I found what feels a nicely balanced setup for me, or at least the best it's felt to me so far, but either way I was turning some nice laps, and got a good result.

Hi Bishop;

Could you put the set up are you using right know?

thanks

I have not written anything down yet, but in general it's got the two hole pistons front and rear, 450cst oil, light blue springs front and purple rear.
On top of that it's got the stock 2.4mm front bar, but 2mm in on the links so it's stiffer, then a 2.2mm rear bar set flush on the links.

From memory it's also got like 1-1.5 toe out on the front, 3 degree tow in on the rear, camber is sort of wear and track related from what I can see, but right now it's only 1 degree camber front, with 3-3.5 rear.

Also I'm running more caster up front, so I think 3mm of clips in front of the arms and 1mm behind, at the rear it's as per kit shims everywhere, but I'm running super long links, like inside lower or middle hole, and outer hole on rear hubs, my wheel base is also set to longer than stock, 2mm clip in front of the rear lower arms, 1mm behind.

Add to all that I'm narrow on the back end, but probably kit width on the front, but I plan to go narrower there as well, tyre shore is 37's front and 40's rear with a 2mm split, and the car worked best when the tyres were in the 59-62mm range in the rear, with me aiming for a 7mm rear and 6mm front ride height going into 5min heats.

In the final I was running low on ride height 3/4 through the 20min session, so I should have gone for 7.5-8mm at the start, I was touching down chassis wise a fair bit at the end (ouch for my chassis wear).

Note with the 'long' rear links, I pulled out a ball end cup cause they were so long only a few threads were threaded in, I'm going to switch to the steering cups to fix that, I'd have prefured to go into the final with 3 degree rear camber but dialed to 3.5 cause I was worried the links would pull out again, and put a dab of super glue on the one that did pull out before the final just in case (thanks to Steve for having some super glue handy).


I'd actually classify the whole setup as stable and a little lazy, driven from the rear of the car, I can't do fast and twitchy, but take whatever I post for a setup with reference to my skill level also, it was like my 5th outing in this level of Pro touring, I'm by no means 'that' fast or really seasoned in all this, many thanks to my home crew of Finchy and the Trevster for tuning help and setup advice.
(In fact a huge thank you to Finchy for managing my engine at yesterdays meet, which allowed me to really focus on getting the car to work for me.)

Chassis flex
 

Hello guys,

Is this normal when u braking?

I adjusted the epa down up to no chassis flex but no brakes.

What em I doing wrong?

Thanks,

During first setup of the car, or after you have run it?.

Cause when you first build the car it's got no brakes no matter what you do, the pads etc need to be run in, takes at least a couple of heats, mine were biting well towards the end of it's first meeting.