Originally Posted by PinoyCali (Post 9940641)

Hello

I need to put weight on my car.

Where can I get them online?

Thanks

Originally Posted by Bishop (Post 9937775)

It's an aggressive clutch, flush on the spring nut is a good starting point, it should work like that on most engines, but right now I'm about .20 mm in from flush, I was like a quarter turn more at one point, like in the .30 range, but it started slipping a lot when cold, and not really fully engaging, so it's got a small working range being so aggressive (to be fair I'm not running a real hot motor though).

A-B point, well that is your gap and your end float, you set your gap without the inside bearings fitted, aim for .3-.4mm with stock weights in stock configuration, end float with all bearings should be .1mm, basically no end play but then no binding either.

Keep in mind again though, if you got one of the off drilled end stoppers, you will struggle to get these settings, and it will give you a headache trying to set the clutch.

Originally Posted by Seisick (Post 9940750)

nitrohouse kamikaze amain or broklyn hobbies

Originally Posted by PinoyCali (Post 9942797)

I dont see any.. Do u have part #?

Thankd

Originally Posted by RC MARKET (Post 9883832)

New Option Parts :nod:

Originally Posted by Bishop (Post 9942857)

RCMushroom...
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=21896
http://www.rc-mushroom.com/product_i...ducts_id=21897

AMain Hobbies...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Weight-C-20g
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Weight-D-10g

Originally Posted by Undies (Post 9947486)

Hi

I am just wondering if someone can clarify where the grub screws are spose to go in step three.... the diagram isn't very clear and it talks about a 4x8mm which looks to go into the plastic bumper for droop adjustment. But there is also hole above the bulkhead which the smaller but on hole underneath in aluminium!

Thanxs

Originally Posted by Bishop (Post 9947530)

Once you fit the front arms it's fairly clear where they go, they push down on the tabs on the inside of the arms, so if anything if your unsure wait till the arms are in and it will make sense.

Originally Posted by Undies (Post 9947731)

Bishop

Thank you for your prompt reply.... Your right after i installed the lower arms and mounted the top cover for the sway bar it all made sense to me.

Have noticed arms are a little tight with the sway bar connected, this is a little different to when i built my MTX3 everything was loose and you had to shim to tighten things up.

Enjoying the build, very impressive Mugen!

Originally Posted by Bishop (Post 9948823)

The sway bar end links are more the issue if your arms feel they are binding at all, those caps under the arms only need to be a tiny bit tight against the ball links, and the arms suddenly feel like they are binding.

With mine in the end I found you need to allow a little play in those sway links, then everything moves smoothly with the arms in general.
Worst part is actually setting the link heights even, very hard to measure once in place, and you don't want a tweaked bar in your setup.

Originally Posted by Undies (Post 9951189)

Your right after i finished the rear end sway bar and saw how free it was i started playing with the caps under the front arms and that free'd it up for me.

New issue.... has anyone felt the grub screws in the two speed are too long they push the shoes apart when they are flush with the plastic shoe.

I will keep playing, but it has me stumped!