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Old 05-09-2012, 02:46 AM   #2056
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This is what I have done:

First I have lined up the spurs and pinions by simming out the flywheel.
Than I made a brace between the diff and radioplate (Carbon).
We have run about 70 rounds and till now no stripping 2e spur.

At this moment I can not upload pictures but will do that asap.
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:06 AM   #2057
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Originally Posted by greg.dawn View Post
the only way to fix is to brace we used 1/8 steering arm back to diff still get flex and when it bends again you just adjust it again
greg
Greg, i would think that a steering arm will let the brace flex sideways and if it isn`t straight with the brake rod it will move sideways with braking wich may let the alignment of the spurs malfunction and strip the gears.

Most cars (who don`t have the stripping problem) have a fixed brace wich won`t allow sideway flex.

Just brainstorming though with you mugen lovers. Hoping to get a fix for you guy`s so we can have fun racing in stead of annoyings
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Old 05-09-2012, 12:24 PM   #2058
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Hello All,

We tested the brace, we tested low brake, we tested smooth second shift, we exchanged the axle with complete gear boxes from one car to others cars, we tesetd different motors, we tested a complete new car (I am in a club with seven other MTX 5 drivers)... NO solution to the stripping of the second spur. We have broken more than Seventy 2nd spurs. And very often, after one or two laps only !!!
The ONLY solution (this one works, even if we are a lot to think the spurs material is the problem because too hard) is to follow Robert advice when he speaks about the alignment of the engine. If the engine is perfectly perpendicular to your chassis and that you have the minimum of play between second spur and second pinion, you have more chance to preserve your 2nd.
These last 3 weeks, we all follow this advice and we keep our spurs much more time.
Food for thought, friends.
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:28 PM   #2059
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
Ok I will try that.. I will post pictures later maybe that help in getting some help.. Lol
not sure if this helps but as you can see grinding down one of the fins helped by being able to move the carb more to the right. I then hook up the linkage and move the carb back to the left until there was a small gap between the carb and tank.
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Old 05-09-2012, 11:37 PM   #2060
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Originally Posted by Perez View Post
not sure if this helps but as you can see grinding down one of the fins helped by being able to move the carb more to the right. I then hook up the linkage and move the carb back to the left until there was a small gap between the carb and tank.
Thank you! Will give it a try.
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Old 05-10-2012, 01:36 AM   #2061
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Default mtx 5

we have had little trouble with gears we think it was more worn pinions once the little square bit wears off we striped gears 2 only the brace is only to keep chassi straight it flexes from side to side but has limited flex when brakes are on grand son said it still handel's about same as with no brace is still a quick car a lot better than his old mtx4r he said but what do you believe from 15 old its new and 4 is old
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:32 AM   #2062
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Hello Greg,

With new pinions (because new cars) and new spurs, we broke the second spur about only one or two laps many times. With and without brace.
With brace, the car is too much slow, and understeers a lot.
Hope it can help.
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:20 AM   #2063
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Thumbs up A question for guys that have been having gear problems

Hi guy,
I was wondering if anyone has tried to see if there is any relationship between gear ratios and stripping. I was wondering if different ratios might give better meshing. Also check if the engine has moved on its mounts ie after setting the mesh, measure accurately from the main drive shaft to the thrust retainer on the clutch use digital calipers. And race!! If you strip a gear. measure again and see if the mount have moved. I have heard that after a major impact gears have stripped a few laps later. I wonder if the mount move on the chassis and the solution might be to sand off the anodizing on the underside of the engine mounts, anodizing is very slippery!

Food for thought guys.
Also check the mesh after every race.
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Old 05-11-2012, 11:31 AM   #2064
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hey seisick,i know this is kinda old..but how many mm did u turn the spring in?
not sure but when using 0.6mm shims behind the flywheel cone on my picco engine, i had 2,25 turns in on the spring nut, i do like this since i only tie the nut whenever racing and after racing i loose the nut, it preserves the spring (btw i use metal nut from the mtx4, not the alum that came with the kit)


good luck with the stripping guys, you can have all tips brace, shims, no play, play etc etc but just a little misalignment on the engine will do the trick and strip! all over in the entire rc community,

good luck
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Old 05-13-2012, 07:47 AM   #2065
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Originally Posted by Seisick View Post
not sure but when using 0.6mm shims behind the flywheel cone on my picco engine, i had 2,25 turns in on the spring nut, i do like this since i only tie the nut whenever racing and after racing i loose the nut, it preserves the spring (btw i use metal nut from the mtx4, not the alum that came with the kit)


good luck with the stripping guys, you can have all tips brace, shims, no play, play etc etc but just a little misalignment on the engine will do the trick and strip! all over in the entire rc community,

good luck
So I tried running the silver mugen spring yesterday. With .5mm washer behind the flywheel, i set it up at 9.15 mm distance from the end of the crank to the top of the clutch nut. I also had it setup with a total of .4mm space between the clutch shoe and bell.

I thought it worked pretty well. Definitely shot out faster than the gold spring but would recommend using the silver on high traction tracks. As the track got greasier and traction decreased, the car's rear end started step out. But during the qualifier in the morning , it was pretty awesome.

I'm headed down the KO propo race in Los Angeles next weekend and will try it there as well. I just saw my qualifying heat and I'm there with Swauger, DJ Apoloro, Paolo M., Kimbrow, Burch, and a few others. It will be intense just driving next to those guys!

And, not a single stripped gear yesterday... I have only stripped one since i have started to run. It is definitely about alignment. If you have still have issues with your gears, have a local sponsored mugen driver help you set it up correctly.
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Old 05-14-2012, 12:39 AM   #2066
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Default Brake pads

Hi Guys,
I've tried both the pad compounds offerd by Mugen and even the soft pads will not pull the car up with a full lock. yes i know you don't want that, but if it can lock up i can always dial out the brake, and yes i know it's got a bit to do with the chassie flex too. But has anyone tired any thing super soft and grippy.
What else works?
The pads in the mtx are off the mrx and i wonder if we could go softer and look for more grip then is need on an 1/8 scale.


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Old 05-14-2012, 01:54 AM   #2067
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Default Brakes

Haven't tried the car since installing these 2 braces
Hopefully it will help with the brakes with out loosing to much steering.
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Old 05-14-2012, 09:09 AM   #2068
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hello all
I solved the problem so brake ':
I changed the brake lining pads of putting the Motonica (1mm thick).
now my mtx5, without modification, good brakes without applying too much brake, so doing I do not have excessive bending and brakes very well.
hello
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Old 05-14-2012, 03:51 PM   #2069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maver View Post
hello all
I solved the problem so brake ':
I changed the brake lining pads of putting the Motonica (1mm thick).
now my mtx5, without modification, good brakes without applying too much brake, so doing I do not have excessive bending and brakes very well.
hello
maver (italy)
Hey Maver,
What is the part number of the Motonica brakes? Did you glue them on to old brake pads or modify it to fit?
thanks
steve
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Old 05-14-2012, 06:06 PM   #2070
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Is stock gearing suitable for most tracks ? I will be running on big track with long straight. Any ideas would help, thanks
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