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hi i am sure i read some were that you have to lift engen up //it rubs on chassi but i coud be wrong as usual//pack engen mount wetch might fix your prob
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Originally Posted by greg.dawn
(Post 10680452)
hi i am sure i read some were that you have to lift engen up //it rubs on chassi but i coud be wrong as usual//pack engen mount wetch might fix your prob
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Originally Posted by Arahawak
(Post 10680411)
Has anybody tried mounting a Sirio Nemesis on the MTX5?
Need some advise from those who had. I can't seem to clear the carb.. Am thinking the only way is to shave the tank in order for the carb to be fully open. Any ideas? |
Originally Posted by Perez
(Post 10682268)
I have a sirio XXX and it was a really tight fit as well. I ended up having to use my dremel and barely grind down a fin from the motor so I could turn the carb more to the right. I can take a picture when i get home if you need.
Thanks in advance |
Can anyone tell me off the top of their head, or measure if you have one handy, the thickness of any of the Mugen clutch springs?, I'm trying to see if I can find an off the shelf spring from something with a thinner and hence softer spring.
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Originally Posted by Bishop
(Post 10685256)
Can anyone tell me off the top of their head, or measure if you have one handy, the thickness of any of the Mugen clutch springs?, I'm trying to see if I can find an off the shelf spring from something with a thinner and hence softer spring.
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Originally Posted by Bishop
(Post 10685256)
Can anyone tell me off the top of their head, or measure if you have one handy, the thickness of any of the Mugen clutch springs?, I'm trying to see if I can find an off the shelf spring from something with a thinner and hence softer spring.
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hey guys,just wondering if any of you guys are running 300k front diffs?how is it different from the stock 200k?
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Originally Posted by Seisick
(Post 10566454)
Sure, the silver one works superb, but its more sensitive to adjustments compared to stock one (gold) consistent in long runs I'd say, the black one won't work, to stiff
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Originally Posted by tq23
(Post 10694441)
hey seisick,i know this is kinda old..but how many mm did u turn the spring in?
I usually run 9.3 mm from the end of the crank to the top of the clutch nut when the motor is at BDC at the same point. This is including the .5 mm spacer behind the flywheel and motor. So, I reckon a good starting point would be at 9.0 with the silver mugen clutch spring i'm guessing. I'll try it next weekend and let you know. |
hey thanks perez..im going to try it out too..awaiting ur feedback too..
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Originally Posted by Perez
(Post 10682268)
I have a sirio XXX and it was a really tight fit as well. I ended up having to use my dremel and barely grind down a fin from the motor so I could turn the carb more to the right. I can take a picture when i get home if you need.
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just got my MTX5 last month and just finish break in my reds engine. for some how i don't get any problem with gear stripping. i set the sims carefully and engine position correctly. but the problem is not the sims or engine mount. its the break and chassis.
why break and chassis? coz if i adjust the break linkage to much it also pull the engine (the chassis move front and back) I think is causing the gear stripping. |
Originally Posted by Arahawak
(Post 10701846)
Hi Perez.. am hoping you can post some pictures for reference on fitting the XXX on the MTX5
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hi as all ways people will tell you it is a user problem and we are all stupid it dose not happen the only way to fix is to brace we used 1/8 steering arm back to diff still get flex and when it bends again you just adjust it again
greg after market chassi is no better than mugen one |
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