Hey That was my next question :lol:

Steve H

:):) ok.
I did so ':
removed the old brake linings by boiling the pills, then finished with sandpaper, then I glued the new two-component linings.
Code linings Motonica P81 M07110 .

regarding the long straights usually I add 1 to the sprocket tooth and take off the crown 1. but so 'doing the crown is broken. therefore the ideal ':
pinion 16 crown 52 for the first pinion 21 and crown 47 for the second.
so 'does not break and draw length ratios.

sorry my bad English. :)

hi no trouble with your english its better than my spelling was before i found spell check greg

MTX5
 

Hi Guys,

Finally found this great thread about the MTX5!

However, after reading a few pages of it so far, it seems like this gear stripping issue is a real problem (obviously, right?).

However, I can report that I haven't had any problems with my car so far. I run on a small track in Cairns (that's a small city in northern Australia for our international friends - great holiday spot), which is always dirty and chock full of rocks and other nasties, but no stripped gears. I only had a few issues with the clutch spacing (my own fault) and a bit of debris stuck in the top end carb needle causing flameouts. Now that I've sorted that out, she's singing a good tune down the front straight:nod::tire:

One thing that might make my car an exception is the fact it's a 2012 edition MTX5, which I understand incorporated a few fixes into the design. However, I have also noticed a lot of chassis flex when engaging the throttle servo. The difference is that the whole engine and 2-speed clutch assembly move/flex as one unit, so the mesh I believe stays intact during running. I'll keep you posted on how I go, but maybe I got lucky, I'm not sure yet. On a related note, my pinion gear mesh is slightly offset, and pointed towards the spurs. This gave me the best mesh and tightest tolerance between both gears. I am running a 2010 Nova Plus-12 3sct (purple head), so the fit may be a bit different because it's an older engine. I'd be keen to hear from others about their experiences with mounting the engine.

Also, does anyone have any opinions on the Zeppin Racing CNC 3.2mm MTX5 Carbon Chassis? I'm considering one of these for future use, seeing as carbon fibre doesn't bend or tweak like aluminium. Heat dissipation could be an issue though.

And finally, any thoughts on the Font Solid Axle Set (Spring Steel) from A Plus. What diff setup are most guys using at the moment?

Cheers,
Mick

Hello.
I answer for my experience (I have the mtx5 from October 2011)
T2002 version should solve the problem of the rear differential gears with Teflon often broke, have changed the differentials above the shoulders and put the satellites in steel, so it has no relation to the crowns that break.
at Novarossi engine, I only tested models (keep-on, plus 12 and flash purple head) and I can say that if you make a connection without spaces and perfect online does not break the second gear, paying particular attention to the friction that has too few problems, in my opinion:
1: spring plate which must be free to rotate in the strain
2: distance strain bell minimum 0.5 mm.
3: Always new strain.
4: clutch shoes cut into the spine to give more 'movement and weighted to eliminate slippage and give more strength to push.
the carbon frame has been tested ..... advice not to mount it was a disaster.
regards
maver

Actually I have been keen for a long time to try a carbon chassis on a nitro car, for that main reason, being they usually stay true, in terms of heat, one of the guys who first started making carbon chassis's for nitro (somewhere on this forum), said the heat was a non issue, during development he claimed there was no change in engine running temps.

Only problem with carbon, is getting the weight up to current legal limit in most places, could be an issue, but you could speculate if weights come down, some makers could switch to carbon to bring down that weight, I know KM have a option carbon chassis for their car now.

Hi,

maybe can you make a pic. from your clutch shoes so I can see how I have to cut it?

I also use a nova engine and I haven´t stripped a gear yet.

What websites does everyone use to get parts? Besides amain and rc mushroom

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the info. Maver, could you expand on your bad experience with the carbon chassis? Were the holes drilled incorrectly? Did it break? What brand was it? Zeppin?

Also, what front diff is everybody running? Would the spool from A Plus be the way to go?

I buy from a variety of stores (online and local), but I would definitely recommend Darren at Online Hobbies for all your Mugen parts. They are based in Sydney, but are always prompt with delivery no matter where you are. They also stock Contact tyres and Max Power engines. Been dealing with them for more than six years. Service is tops!:nod:

Cheers,
Michael

I can't seem to find a 16 tooth online? Any pointers would be great

sure.
as soon as I will show you photos.

this and 'a good question.
In fact you can not do because the mugen did not make the pinion 16.
having tried to stretch the second with 21/47 I broke the crown of the second gear, I have to go 20/48 for not having problems (?!)
I believe that one can not increase the difference of teeth from the current 5 to 6, worsens the situation, (53 +15 = 68) (48 +20 = 68) (20-5 = 5) (53-48 = 5) this is correct.
mugen does not understand why 'of the pinion 16.:cry:
:)

the problem is the temperature ..... the crowns were jumping all the time, I used the chassis of zeppin.
I mount the original frame, I changed bearings (km) and pulleys (A-plus).

maver :)

Hey on another note, did anyone have to put extra spacer under the rear shocks in order to mount them properly on the MTX5. I found that if I didn't, the threaded screw to adjust ride height would hit up against the screw used to secure the rear upper arms.

it 's true. what 'happens only if the shock likely to last hole.
:)