Tighter clutch spring for high traction track. Looser clutch spring for lower traction track.

Bump in or bump out?

On tuning my engine I notice after rev full throttle and release there is a delay that engine remain in high rev before it slow down to the idle setting. And I can set this delay time by tuning my High Neddle. More rich the engine will be faster back to idle rev sound compare than I lean it.

Question: Is the delay setting is use to composite the track or driving style?

the engine's low end is on the lean side, richen it a little

Is this mean I have to tune the engine to idle immediately after the full throttle?

yes, in general. i don't how long the delay is in your case, but a short delay shouldn't hurt.

Just want to share my experience as beginners.
Join a race yesteday - Parking Lot, Medium Traction, Technical track. Average lap time - 5.10 sec /lap. Test run my first car setting the car was abit slide/loose go into corner. By understanding the basic setup - weight transfer, I increase the tension of the front spring alittle bit than went and test again. It work positif, less slide/loose. Than i still need to reduce that oversteer into corner and this time i reduce the droop from 6mm lift to 4 mm lift. ( 6mm ride height and with maximum the chasis can lift till the tires off from the ground at 10mm) . Yup ..the oversteer is gone. Turn up to just good and sharp cornering as i want it. That was nice.

I adjusted the clutch spring to abit loose because the traction is medium and because the engine is to quick make noise/screaming. This make my car abit less torque but it give me better in handling. nice...

Change my driving style to consistently maintain the racing line, cool with consistant calm punching on throttle. This was amazing experience! The car go full power to corner, than reduce the throttle, car went is smooth at apex and squeezeeee.... again the throttle, the car shoot up flat at the ground. That was fast.

Make up to final C Main 3..2..1... down! Go! My engine stall could'nt start. How frust!! Piston head broken !

Arrrgh, what bad luck.
Was it from that lean low end needle?

I don't think so but probably I did it before and cause the piston head worn out or something....

This time i'm sure it not lean as Data suggest. Quit rich Low End with pinch the fuel tube trick which it end up with more than 5 second idle before it stall.

The piston head ....

how do you set the ride-height for a Serpent Impulse Pro? I have the droop and tweak setup just right.

I'm still not finish with basic ..

At race track what is the basic routine that we should check /tune to suit our car to track?

Is it ? Pls. correct me if i'm wrong :-
1. Tires
It is really significant effect to my car. For an example, i start with 40/40 all round. But if my car make a big corner, push in corner, understeer I will start to think to have more grip in the front and less for the rear. So I change shore to 37(F)/40(R). and then test again. I confirm in my track it's work. The car will have more grip in front, small corner and start to react as it want to oversteer now. Ok next..

2. Ride Height
I will check if my ride height is at "normal" condition. Meaning the different between Front and Rear about 0-2mm diff. If I got my front ride height is 5 so my rear should around 6-7. Emm.. that's it nothing much to do on that . Ok next...

3. Droop
I will set the droop ( How much height the chasis can be lift before the tires goes off from the ground). So if my rear ride height now is 6 and it can be lift until 10mm height before the tires go off the ground, that consider 10-6 = 4mm droop. So if my car go into corner and tend to oversteer my thinking is the car has too much grip in front and the chasis rear lift if possible to the much of the droop /lift limit (In this case it's 4mm). Weight transfer too much to the front. SO ...I decide to reduce the lift limit let say from 4mm to 2mm. And test ... but sometime it still tend to oversteer that will start make me Ok this might need a combination solution I think! So I go to the spring...

4. Spring
If it still tend to oversteer i will be thinking to harden the front tension as to reduce the front grip. So I tighten both of the shock collar. This will increase the hardness or front spring tension which i tought will prevent the front suspension too "dip" and reduce the weight transfer to the front. Or very seldom I change the spring hardness. And by tighten the spring in front this will make my front ride height increase. So to keep my front height to the 5mm I force it by using the front anti roll bar screw ( front droop screw)I'm not sure if this is correct to do Pls. correct me if this wrong..

All gurus out there .. please do comment if any of my routine above is incorrect or if can share with us on simple tips ? Thanks. Appreciate that.

Actually this should be your order:
1.-Tires
2.-Springs / Damping
3.-Gear Ratio
4.-Toe
5.-Camber
6.-Caster
7.-Droop
8.-Ride height / tweak
9.-Differentials
10.-Sway Bars
11.-Shock Position
12.-Engine Tuning
13.-Clutch setting

AFM

Thanks AFM, I just edited my question just now thought that it will give a good explanation for the forums fan to respond. But u did arrange it .Thanks

OK, actually if you go here:

http://www.hpiracing.com/tuning/chap_1.htm

It explains the level, or order of adjustments in relation to what gives you the most performance changes.

AFM

I disagree on this one. In my opinion you should never "reduce" performance at one end of the car first to balance it; ALWAYS "increase" performance at the other end to balance it and only "reduce" if you can't get the balance. In this case if your car is oversteering I would work to get more grip at the rear first then reduce front grip if all else fails. You will end up with a faster car this way.