Basic Car Tuning
11-14-2003 | 04:51 PM
#31
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,459
From: Southern Cal - Claremont
Originally posted by tIANcI
KEWL ... hahaha ... I am the opposite at this moment, hair is like a jungle as I want to keep it long, hate how much the hairstylist takes off each time (I am sure that is something you have forgotten) so I said to myself let's keep it really long!
What's your ride?
KEWL ... hahaha ... I am the opposite at this moment, hair is like a jungle as I want to keep it long, hate how much the hairstylist takes off each time (I am sure that is something you have forgotten) so I said to myself let's keep it really long!
What's your ride?
Secondary = NTC3 with BMI G1 chassis. Soooo sweet
Third = TC3 with modded chassis and steering.
Real Ride = F150 Ext Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 - big truck fits big guy.
11-14-2003 | 06:15 PM
#32
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,847
From: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Originally posted by esham
Thanks Boomer, yes I do tried to get those xxxmain manual but I afraid they didn't supply direct to my country - malaysia. 2nd tried they refer me to their supplier here www.tpracing.com.my but yet they didn't order it cause they said xxmain inprogress updating the contents..emmm
almost 3 month now ..no news.. Now.. i asked my friend from Durham to order it for me from their dealer at Chicago.. Hope success! 
Thanks Boomer, yes I do tried to get those xxxmain manual but I afraid they didn't supply direct to my country - malaysia. 2nd tried they refer me to their supplier here www.tpracing.com.my but yet they didn't order it cause they said xxmain inprogress updating the contents..emmm
almost 3 month now ..no news.. Now.. i asked my friend from Durham to order it for me from their dealer at Chicago.. Hope success!
Tower hobbies ships international..
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEGG9&P=7
11-15-2003 | 01:13 AM
#33
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,737
From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Originally posted by Boomer
Primary = RC10L2 Pan Car (LOVE it with a 9x2. . .speed!)
Secondary = NTC3 with BMI G1 chassis. Soooo sweet
Third = TC3 with modded chassis and steering.
Real Ride = F150 Ext Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 - big truck fits big guy.
Primary = RC10L2 Pan Car (LOVE it with a 9x2. . .speed!)
Secondary = NTC3 with BMI G1 chassis. Soooo sweet
Third = TC3 with modded chassis and steering.
Real Ride = F150 Ext Cab, Long Bed, 4x4 - big truck fits big guy.
11-15-2003 | 03:04 PM
#36
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,943
From: racing line - push to the limit
Originally posted by fastharry
Tower hobbies ships international..
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEGG9&P=7
Tower hobbies ships international..
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEGG9&P=7
11-15-2003 | 09:01 PM
#38
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 252
From: Singapore
Droop adjustment
Originally posted by Boomer
Scary thought, ain't it? Yep, that's me.
the reason for the droop question is another long-running one. How do you set droop? There seems to be three general groups of thought:
1. what I call "static" droop - this is using the AE type of setup tool and measures how far down the arm travels FROM the level of the bottom of the chassis. 0= no movement above the chassis, 5= 5mm of movement above the chassis
2. what I call "dynamic" droop - this checks ride height, then how much farther that the chassis can move up from there WITHOUT the tires leaving the ground, or some method like this. I've never gotten this one down. I think that the reason people use this one is because, with foams, ride height changes dramatically, sometimes in a single race, and while that does not affect static droop, it does affect dynamic droop - the tire won't go as far up, relative to the chassis, because it isn't as big anymore.
3. what I call "effective" droop - set ride height, set static droop. Now, holding both tires on the ground, use your thumb to lift the chassis and watch to see that each droop screw contacts at the same time and that your chassis is level. Even setting static droop, I've still found I need to make slight adjustments for this. Also - I've found this to really illustrate how much/little droop (arm down travel) that there is. I got this one from KevinK and it really helped me.
In truth - I think all three measure the same thing just in different ways. Each has a validity all its own. I can't do #2, for some reason. . . So I do #1 and 3. You pick what works for you.
Scary thought, ain't it? Yep, that's me.
the reason for the droop question is another long-running one. How do you set droop? There seems to be three general groups of thought:
1. what I call "static" droop - this is using the AE type of setup tool and measures how far down the arm travels FROM the level of the bottom of the chassis. 0= no movement above the chassis, 5= 5mm of movement above the chassis
2. what I call "dynamic" droop - this checks ride height, then how much farther that the chassis can move up from there WITHOUT the tires leaving the ground, or some method like this. I've never gotten this one down. I think that the reason people use this one is because, with foams, ride height changes dramatically, sometimes in a single race, and while that does not affect static droop, it does affect dynamic droop - the tire won't go as far up, relative to the chassis, because it isn't as big anymore.
3. what I call "effective" droop - set ride height, set static droop. Now, holding both tires on the ground, use your thumb to lift the chassis and watch to see that each droop screw contacts at the same time and that your chassis is level. Even setting static droop, I've still found I need to make slight adjustments for this. Also - I've found this to really illustrate how much/little droop (arm down travel) that there is. I got this one from KevinK and it really helped me.
In truth - I think all three measure the same thing just in different ways. Each has a validity all its own. I can't do #2, for some reason. . . So I do #1 and 3. You pick what works for you.
(answer please base on kyosho v-one rr-my car)
11-16-2003 | 02:37 AM
#39
Tech Elite
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,066
From: Melbourne OZ
Re: Droop adjustment
Originally posted by EiKuD
so...do you guys remove the shocks when adjusting droop ? which is correct ? adjust the droop with shock or without shock ? adjust the droop with tires or without tires ? adjust the droop with tires on the ground or not ??
(answer please base on kyosho v-one rr-my car)
so...do you guys remove the shocks when adjusting droop ? which is correct ? adjust the droop with shock or without shock ? adjust the droop with tires or without tires ? adjust the droop with tires on the ground or not ??
(answer please base on kyosho v-one rr-my car)
Conventional wisdom says you set droop with the shocks and bar's detached to ensure they don't interfear with the settings. We really only do it this way when the car is first built to ensure there is enough shock length for whatever droop may be required. For the same reason, we get picky about shock dimensions - I want to be able to set droop based on these measurements later. Equally, it's important to have the bars exactly even too.
So, all in all, we use Boomer's Number 2 method for "dynamic" droop, essentially because we need to make changes at the track. We do this with everything attached, measuring the difference between the ride height at rest and when the wheels just leave the ground when the chassis is raised.
As luck would have it, today a fellow racer put our car on his fancy laser tweak station and it was spot on.
To be honest, I was amazed.
11-16-2003 | 07:04 AM
#41
Tech Prophet
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 19,679
From: MORDOR
Originally posted by sup
if malaysia sucks coz tower does not deliver there, think about the philippines without paypal?! thats what really sucks..
if malaysia sucks coz tower does not deliver there, think about the philippines without paypal?! thats what really sucks..
11-16-2003 | 10:02 PM
#44
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,943
From: racing line - push to the limit
Camber
Hi guys,
How can you tell if your camber setting is ok or not for a track? Is it by refering the corning of the tyres after afew laps or is there any other thing to consider?
Currently i just set it -2 or -3 camber and after I make afew laps I check the tyre (Form) corning. If it is flat I'm happy if not I will adjust it. But If the first setup wrong means I will loss a set of tyre.
How can you tell if your camber setting is ok or not for a track? Is it by refering the corning of the tyres after afew laps or is there any other thing to consider?
Currently i just set it -2 or -3 camber and after I make afew laps I check the tyre (Form) corning. If it is flat I'm happy if not I will adjust it.
But If the first setup wrong means I will loss a set of tyre.
Last edited by esham; 11-16-2003 at 10:07 PM.
11-16-2003 | 10:55 PM
#45
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,737
From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Re: Camber
Originally posted by esham
Hi guys,
How can you tell if your camber setting is ok or not for a track? Is it by refering the corning of the tyres after afew laps or is there any other thing to consider?
Currently i just set it -2 or -3 camber and after I make afew laps I check the tyre (Form) corning. If it is flat I'm happy if not I will adjust it. But If the first setup wrong means I will loss a set of tyre.
Hi guys,
How can you tell if your camber setting is ok or not for a track? Is it by refering the corning of the tyres after afew laps or is there any other thing to consider?
Currently i just set it -2 or -3 camber and after I make afew laps I check the tyre (Form) corning. If it is flat I'm happy if not I will adjust it.
But If the first setup wrong means I will loss a set of tyre.
Now its a habit to give more camber for the outer side, I usually start with another 1/4-1/2 turn of the camber turn buckle