Basic Car Tuning
10-21-2003 | 03:04 AM
#16
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,943
From: racing line - push to the limit
Re: Re: Re: Re: Traction Roll
Originally posted by InitialD
Perhaps there is too little droop in the rear. Play around with that.
Perhaps there is too little droop in the rear. Play around with that.
If you do take student i want to apply too.. InitialD rc racing "sifu"
11-12-2003 | 10:56 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,943
From: racing line - push to the limit
Hi everbody, At last I got the xxx main setup book. Ordered by my friends in North Carolina - USA to tower hobbies
Nice
At least as a review for me on understanding the basic setup, tweak and tuning of my car.
I believe the next step will to improve and fine tuning the contol driving skill. The racing season will be start back at our local track on December to early next year, need to polish up those skill.
To understand the weight transfer is quit interesting :- To does more beginner than me
I suggest you to understand this.
Weight Transfer Normally ....
Into corner or breaking , off power the weight transfer to the front tires. Too much will lift up rear tires and cause car tend to spin into corner. Too little will make the weight still at the back/rear which make the car tend to push outside (understeer) into corner. than to get it balance that where you need to adjust the spring, ride height, droop.
At last I got the xxx main setup book. Ordered by my friends in North Carolina - USA to tower hobbies Nice
At least as a review for me on understanding the basic setup, tweak and tuning of my car. I believe the next step will to improve and fine tuning the contol driving skill. The racing season will be start back at our local track on December to early next year, need to polish up those skill.
To understand the weight transfer is quit interesting :- To does more beginner than me
I suggest you to understand this.Weight Transfer Normally ....
Into corner or breaking , off power the weight transfer to the front tires. Too much will lift up rear tires and cause car tend to spin into corner. Too little will make the weight still at the back/rear which make the car tend to push outside (understeer) into corner. than to get it balance that where you need to adjust the spring, ride height, droop.
11-13-2003 | 03:00 AM
#18
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 252
From: Singapore
Useful Thread
yo people in the house, i am really impressed by the links provided by all experties, i realy gain another level of knowledge towards my car, i believe i will be reaping more benefits from it. anyway here's my old question again, i actually wanted to ask initialD again as he once explained to me but it hold me back as i am afraid to reveal my ignorance...
here's my ques, i still can't get the right adjustment between my trackwidth and my camber, i.e. when i adjust camber, i lose my trackwidth....i did tried out the method of InitialD where once i dialed my trackwidth, i can adjust the camber by counting turns in and out to compensate but....i failed....sorry to say that, here the scenario it might sound misty or rather confusing, but i'll try to explain it as clear as possible.
ok now i've set my trackwidth to 200mm for FRONT, and the camber on each side is 2 Deg and 3 Deg, i try loosening and tightening the nuts to compensate and finally i got it ! but remeasuring the trackwidth, it became 210mm....this is really pissing me off as i have back ache everytime i adjust my car's settings although i 'enjoy' this kind of suffering or rather say is suffer willingly
so hope those who care to advise me can give some guidance, i know is sounds long winded but.....I NEED HELP DUDE !!!
oh ya...thanks in advance 
here's my ques, i still can't get the right adjustment between my trackwidth and my camber, i.e. when i adjust camber, i lose my trackwidth....i did tried out the method of InitialD where once i dialed my trackwidth, i can adjust the camber by counting turns in and out to compensate but....i failed....sorry to say that, here the scenario it might sound misty or rather confusing, but i'll try to explain it as clear as possible.
ok now i've set my trackwidth to 200mm for FRONT, and the camber on each side is 2 Deg and 3 Deg, i try loosening and tightening the nuts to compensate and finally i got it ! but remeasuring the trackwidth, it became 210mm....this is really pissing me off as i have back ache everytime i adjust my car's settings although i 'enjoy' this kind of suffering or rather say is suffer willingly
so hope those who care to advise me can give some guidance, i know is sounds long winded but.....I NEED HELP DUDE !!!
oh ya...thanks in advance
11-13-2003 | 05:17 AM
#19
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,737
From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Re: Useful Thread
Originally posted by EiKuD
yo people in the house, i am really impressed by the links provided by all experties, i realy gain another level of knowledge towards my car, i believe i will be reaping more benefits from it. anyway here's my old question again, i actually wanted to ask initialD again as he once explained to me but it hold me back as i am afraid to reveal my ignorance...
here's my ques, i still can't get the right adjustment between my trackwidth and my camber, i.e. when i adjust camber, i lose my trackwidth....i did tried out the method of InitialD where once i dialed my trackwidth, i can adjust the camber by counting turns in and out to compensate but....i failed....sorry to say that, here the scenario it might sound misty or rather confusing, but i'll try to explain it as clear as possible.
ok now i've set my trackwidth to 200mm for FRONT, and the camber on each side is 2 Deg and 3 Deg, i try loosening and tightening the nuts to compensate and finally i got it ! but remeasuring the trackwidth, it became 210mm....this is really pissing me off as i have back ache everytime i adjust my car's settings although i 'enjoy' this kind of suffering or rather say is suffer willingly
so hope those who care to advise me can give some guidance, i know is sounds long winded but.....I NEED HELP DUDE !!!
oh ya...thanks in advance
yo people in the house, i am really impressed by the links provided by all experties, i realy gain another level of knowledge towards my car, i believe i will be reaping more benefits from it. anyway here's my old question again, i actually wanted to ask initialD again as he once explained to me but it hold me back as i am afraid to reveal my ignorance...
here's my ques, i still can't get the right adjustment between my trackwidth and my camber, i.e. when i adjust camber, i lose my trackwidth....i did tried out the method of InitialD where once i dialed my trackwidth, i can adjust the camber by counting turns in and out to compensate but....i failed....sorry to say that, here the scenario it might sound misty or rather confusing, but i'll try to explain it as clear as possible.
ok now i've set my trackwidth to 200mm for FRONT, and the camber on each side is 2 Deg and 3 Deg, i try loosening and tightening the nuts to compensate and finally i got it ! but remeasuring the trackwidth, it became 210mm....this is really pissing me off as i have back ache everytime i adjust my car's settings although i 'enjoy' this kind of suffering or rather say is suffer willingly
so hope those who care to advise me can give some guidance, i know is sounds long winded but.....I NEED HELP DUDE !!!
oh ya...thanks in advance
11-13-2003 | 08:38 AM
#20
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,459
From: Southern Cal - Claremont
tIANcI is right.
It sounds like you're adjusting camber with your bottom pivot ball.
Your bottom adjustment is ONLY for track. Don't use it at all for camber adjustment - this on ANY car. The NTC3 has, in fact, a specific adjustment spacer that you use to set the bottom arm and then leave it completely alone!
Use the top adjustment for camber. While this will change your bottom adjustment slightly (because of lever action) it will be very minimal (as in around 1/4 to 1/2 millimeter).
It sounds like you're adjusting camber with your bottom pivot ball.
Your bottom adjustment is ONLY for track. Don't use it at all for camber adjustment - this on ANY car. The NTC3 has, in fact, a specific adjustment spacer that you use to set the bottom arm and then leave it completely alone!
Use the top adjustment for camber. While this will change your bottom adjustment slightly (because of lever action) it will be very minimal (as in around 1/4 to 1/2 millimeter).
11-13-2003 | 09:46 AM
#21
I see more and more people changing setup on thier
car before even driving the car. The best thing anyone
can do is try the stock setup then make adjustments
from there and find a base line setup that you can take
from track to track as a starting point. this makes life
easier.
as for the xxxmain that is a good book on how certain adjustments work and its really good at explaining in
simple terms.
car before even driving the car. The best thing anyone
can do is try the stock setup then make adjustments
from there and find a base line setup that you can take
from track to track as a starting point. this makes life
easier.
as for the xxxmain that is a good book on how certain adjustments work and its really good at explaining in
simple terms.
11-13-2003 | 11:28 PM
#22
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115
From: TX
Originally posted by jwf_frani
as for the xxxmain that is a good book on how certain adjustments work and its really good at explaining in
simple terms.
as for the xxxmain that is a good book on how certain adjustments work and its really good at explaining in
simple terms.
ok guys..i have my own question...i've been using the method shown in losi website for adjusting the droop for my losi car...i tried it on my ntc3...it works well but i wanna know how to adjust the droop more accurately or effectively....i saw some pepole set their droop by setting their ride height and stuff then doing the math thing......
whats the best way to set the droop....
11-14-2003 | 06:13 AM
#23
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,737
From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Originally posted by Boomer
tIANcI is right.
It sounds like you're adjusting camber with your bottom pivot ball.
Your bottom adjustment is ONLY for track. Don't use it at all for camber adjustment - this on ANY car. The NTC3 has, in fact, a specific adjustment spacer that you use to set the bottom arm and then leave it completely alone!
Use the top adjustment for camber. While this will change your bottom adjustment slightly (because of lever action) it will be very minimal (as in around 1/4 to 1/2 millimeter).
tIANcI is right.
It sounds like you're adjusting camber with your bottom pivot ball.
Your bottom adjustment is ONLY for track. Don't use it at all for camber adjustment - this on ANY car. The NTC3 has, in fact, a specific adjustment spacer that you use to set the bottom arm and then leave it completely alone!
Use the top adjustment for camber. While this will change your bottom adjustment slightly (because of lever action) it will be very minimal (as in around 1/4 to 1/2 millimeter).
11-14-2003 | 06:16 AM
#24
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,737
From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Originally posted by Los1Fan
i agree and its short too...not like those websites that write their articles longer than a novel.
ok guys..i have my own question...i've been using the method shown in losi website for adjusting the droop for my losi car...i tried it on my ntc3...it works well but i wanna know how to adjust the droop more accurately or effectively....i saw some pepole set their droop by setting their ride height and stuff then doing the math thing......
whats the best way to set the droop....
i agree and its short too...not like those websites that write their articles longer than a novel.
ok guys..i have my own question...i've been using the method shown in losi website for adjusting the droop for my losi car...i tried it on my ntc3...it works well but i wanna know how to adjust the droop more accurately or effectively....i saw some pepole set their droop by setting their ride height and stuff then doing the math thing......
whats the best way to set the droop....
11-14-2003 | 06:19 AM
#25
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,737
From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Originally posted by jwf_frani
I see more and more people changing setup on thier
car before even driving the car. The best thing anyone
can do is try the stock setup then make adjustments
from there and find a base line setup that you can take
from track to track as a starting point. this makes life
easier.
as for the xxxmain that is a good book on how certain adjustments work and its really good at explaining in
simple terms.
I see more and more people changing setup on thier
car before even driving the car. The best thing anyone
can do is try the stock setup then make adjustments
from there and find a base line setup that you can take
from track to track as a starting point. this makes life
easier.
as for the xxxmain that is a good book on how certain adjustments work and its really good at explaining in
simple terms.
11-14-2003 | 08:25 AM
#26
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,459
From: Southern Cal - Claremont
Scary thought, ain't it? Yep, that's me.
the reason for the droop question is another long-running one. How do you set droop? There seems to be three general groups of thought:
1. what I call "static" droop - this is using the AE type of setup tool and measures how far down the arm travels FROM the level of the bottom of the chassis. 0= no movement above the chassis, 5= 5mm of movement above the chassis
2. what I call "dynamic" droop - this checks ride height, then how much farther that the chassis can move up from there WITHOUT the tires leaving the ground, or some method like this. I've never gotten this one down. I think that the reason people use this one is because, with foams, ride height changes dramatically, sometimes in a single race, and while that does not affect static droop, it does affect dynamic droop - the tire won't go as far up, relative to the chassis, because it isn't as big anymore.
3. what I call "effective" droop - set ride height, set static droop. Now, holding both tires on the ground, use your thumb to lift the chassis and watch to see that each droop screw contacts at the same time and that your chassis is level. Even setting static droop, I've still found I need to make slight adjustments for this. Also - I've found this to really illustrate how much/little droop (arm down travel) that there is. I got this one from KevinK and it really helped me.
In truth - I think all three measure the same thing just in different ways. Each has a validity all its own. I can't do #2, for some reason. . . So I do #1 and 3. You pick what works for you.
the reason for the droop question is another long-running one. How do you set droop? There seems to be three general groups of thought:
1. what I call "static" droop - this is using the AE type of setup tool and measures how far down the arm travels FROM the level of the bottom of the chassis. 0= no movement above the chassis, 5= 5mm of movement above the chassis
2. what I call "dynamic" droop - this checks ride height, then how much farther that the chassis can move up from there WITHOUT the tires leaving the ground, or some method like this. I've never gotten this one down. I think that the reason people use this one is because, with foams, ride height changes dramatically, sometimes in a single race, and while that does not affect static droop, it does affect dynamic droop - the tire won't go as far up, relative to the chassis, because it isn't as big anymore.
3. what I call "effective" droop - set ride height, set static droop. Now, holding both tires on the ground, use your thumb to lift the chassis and watch to see that each droop screw contacts at the same time and that your chassis is level. Even setting static droop, I've still found I need to make slight adjustments for this. Also - I've found this to really illustrate how much/little droop (arm down travel) that there is. I got this one from KevinK and it really helped me.
In truth - I think all three measure the same thing just in different ways. Each has a validity all its own. I can't do #2, for some reason. . . So I do #1 and 3. You pick what works for you.
11-14-2003 | 08:34 AM
#27
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,737
From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Originally posted by Boomer
Scary thought, ain't it? Yep, that's me.
the reason for the droop question is another long-running one. How do you set droop? There seems to be three general groups of thought:
1. what I call "static" droop - this is using the AE type of setup tool and measures how far down the arm travels FROM the level of the bottom of the chassis. 0= no movement above the chassis, 5= 5mm of movement above the chassis
2. what I call "dynamic" droop - this checks ride height, then how much farther that the chassis can move up from there WITHOUT the tires leaving the ground, or some method like this. I've never gotten this one down. I think that the reason people use this one is because, with foams, ride height changes dramatically, sometimes in a single race, and while that does not affect static droop, it does affect dynamic droop - the tire won't go as far up, relative to the chassis, because it isn't as big anymore.
3. what I call "effective" droop - set ride height, set static droop. Now, holding both tires on the ground, use your thumb to lift the chassis and watch to see that each droop screw contacts at the same time and that your chassis is level. Even setting static droop, I've still found I need to make slight adjustments for this. Also - I've found this to really illustrate how much/little droop (arm down travel) that there is. I got this one from KevinK and it really helped me.
In truth - I think all three measure the same thing just in different ways. Each has a validity all its own. I can't do #2, for some reason. . . So I do #1 and 3. You pick what works for you.
Scary thought, ain't it? Yep, that's me.
the reason for the droop question is another long-running one. How do you set droop? There seems to be three general groups of thought:
1. what I call "static" droop - this is using the AE type of setup tool and measures how far down the arm travels FROM the level of the bottom of the chassis. 0= no movement above the chassis, 5= 5mm of movement above the chassis
2. what I call "dynamic" droop - this checks ride height, then how much farther that the chassis can move up from there WITHOUT the tires leaving the ground, or some method like this. I've never gotten this one down. I think that the reason people use this one is because, with foams, ride height changes dramatically, sometimes in a single race, and while that does not affect static droop, it does affect dynamic droop - the tire won't go as far up, relative to the chassis, because it isn't as big anymore.
3. what I call "effective" droop - set ride height, set static droop. Now, holding both tires on the ground, use your thumb to lift the chassis and watch to see that each droop screw contacts at the same time and that your chassis is level. Even setting static droop, I've still found I need to make slight adjustments for this. Also - I've found this to really illustrate how much/little droop (arm down travel) that there is. I got this one from KevinK and it really helped me.
In truth - I think all three measure the same thing just in different ways. Each has a validity all its own. I can't do #2, for some reason. . . So I do #1 and 3. You pick what works for you.
For me I just use the Hudy guage. Very simple.
11-14-2003 | 08:46 AM
#28
Tech Elite
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,459
From: Southern Cal - Claremont
none taken - just think about the money I save each year on haircuts, shampoo, conditioner, gel/mouse/spray and that I get to sleep an extra 15 minutes each morning cause all I have to do is to run a towel over my head!
(btw, it's voluntary shininess on top, unlike others. . . )
(btw, it's voluntary shininess on top, unlike others. . .
)
11-14-2003 | 08:52 AM
#29
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,737
From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Originally posted by Boomer
none taken - just think about the money I save each year on haircuts, shampoo, conditioner, gel/mouse/spray and that I get to sleep an extra 15 minutes each morning cause all I have to do is to run a towel over my head!
(btw, it's voluntary shininess on top, unlike others. . . )
none taken - just think about the money I save each year on haircuts, shampoo, conditioner, gel/mouse/spray and that I get to sleep an extra 15 minutes each morning cause all I have to do is to run a towel over my head!
(btw, it's voluntary shininess on top, unlike others. . .
)
What's your ride?
