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Old 06-11-2004, 01:17 AM   #6466
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Default Re: 5/16 hex screws fitting with Hudy driver

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Originally posted by jasoncsc
Guys,

While I am assermbling my NTC3, I found that I could not fit my newly bought Hudy 5/16 hex drvier into the heads of all the flat head 5/16 screws. The Hudy driver seems to be a little too big. Just wondering if any of you guys have the same problem, or is it just me....I measured the Hudy 5/16 driver and the tip is near to 2mm, I guess if its just me than maybe I bought my Hudy driver comes with a wrong tip....
I dont remember any 5/16 screws in the NTC3? there's only .05, 1/16, 3/32 and 5/64...
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Old 06-11-2004, 05:13 AM   #6467
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
You bring that car to Edison on Jun 27th,and I'll show you the advantage of the R40..

(Hi Coach....Hope all is well)..
Unless you learned how to drive over the winter it won't really help. lol. Doing well, thanks. Hope the same for you. We do have a regular with a ntc4 and a R40. who is a good driver and is quick. He has engine on me, but at best he could only stay with me for a while. Once I stopped and watched for a while, I did notice his car made some tight turns. There is a mtx3 who give me fits in bklyn, but that is more the driver. He have been driving longer and is better. I was not putting any cars down, just think the ntc3 can stay with all the present cars out there. The problem is I am still coaching baseball for 2 teams plus allstars. My Rc time is limited till August. I will try. Have you raced at Jackson yet?
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Old 06-12-2004, 10:39 AM   #6468
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Default Question on NTC3

Hello,

After a few days assembling my FT NTC3, I went to the track to test it today. I would like to ask for help on the following matters:

1. Like I said in the previous post, I found that I could not fit my newly bought Hudy 5/64 hex drvier into the heads of all the flat head 5/64 screws. (Sorry I made a typo on the last post) Has anyone found the same?

2. After I assembled the 3 shoe clutch, I checked and found that the clutch bell does not cover all the way down to the whole clutch shoe, but would leave about 2mm open from the flywheel to the lower of the clutch bell. Is this normal? If so, then the clutch shoe is not totally being used inside the clutch bell, why would Associated not make the clutch bell longer to cover the whole clutch shoe area?

3. I am using Jaco Nitro Shoes. When I mount the wheels onto the car I found that the threads on the output shaft is a little bit too short so it could not go all the way to the plastic part of the locknut. In fact, today I lost 2 locknuts on the track because the nut flew out during the car is running. Is this normal and any way to remedy this?

4. On the track today I found the car to be too understeer during entry of a turn, but would be sliding badly when I exit the turn. During exit I could only apply throttle slowly or the car would sliding badly. Any recommendation? I followed the "Optional setting for foam tires" in the manual on setting up the car, and my track is aspault, medium traction, with long straight and wide turns.

Just to share something more, on building the FT NTC3 I'd say its one of the best experience that I had ever on building a car. I placed high hopes on the car before going to the track, but was a bit disappointed cause my car is very hard to drive.

Also I would recommend DO NOT use the 3Racing woven graphite radio deck. I had one, but it was nothing but troubles fitting it... I finally use the stock graphite radio deck and find it very good use.

Any help on the above is appreciated.
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Old 06-12-2004, 11:34 AM   #6469
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1. I have not heard of this problem.

2. I have a small space between my clutch bell and flywheel, it looks to be about 1mm but I have not measured it.

3. I have heard of this and was told to mount the lock nut backwards so the nlyon part is threaded on first.

4. make certain that all of the suspension parts are free and not binding, then continuee to look for a better setup. I used one of Barry Bakers setups and it worked it awesome on my large high traction track.

More rear toe will help keep the back end in place or softer rear tires.


Good Luck
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Old 06-12-2004, 12:04 PM   #6470
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Default Question on NTC3

Also on question 3: Trinity makes a low profile nylon locknut that works good with the Nitro Shoes.

#4: Check your diff. setups...make sure you have the front set at 1/4 turn out and the rear 1/2 turn out. If they are backward it will cause the same situation.
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Old 06-12-2004, 12:15 PM   #6471
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3. asc sells nuts that aren't as tall. I don't know why asc sells the kits with the taller nuts.
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Old 06-12-2004, 03:05 PM   #6472
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Yes, Associated nylon nuts are way too tall, with most tires not just Nitro Shoes. Don't use them, go straight for the Losi amuminum nuts, they work great. I've never had one come off.
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Old 06-12-2004, 03:19 PM   #6473
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Jason;

Setup is everything on these cars just like real race cars. There are tons of setups available on the web, but you will also need the right tools to duplicate the setup. My Integy setup station is great, and compared to the Hudy it's a great value.

The car can be a beast when it's not handling right. It can also become expensive.

The car surely is not known for it's strength. So setup and driving style/ability will go a long when in protecting your investment.
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Old 06-13-2004, 07:14 AM   #6474
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Default NTC3 HANDLING

I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM JASONCSC HAS. I USED BARRY BAKERS HONG KONG SETUP THE CAR IS DECENT BUT DEFINITELY NEEDS MORE STEERING.MY CAR WAS SPINNING OUT WHEN EXITING A TURN BUT IT WAS BECAUSE THE FRONT DIFF WAS GONE, SO I PUT IN THE ONEWAY BUT IT STILL SPINS OUT IF I GIVE IT A GOOD AMOUNT OF THROTTLE. I THINK THE CAR JUST NEEDS TO BE MORE PLANTED. HAS ANYONE TRIED BARRY BAKERS NEW SETUP FOR THE V2. I'M GOING TO SET IT UP TODAY AND RACE IT NEXT WEEK.
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Old 06-13-2004, 08:39 AM   #6475
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AE makes a shiny alum nylon lock nut that's about half the thickness of the stock nuts. I think they are for the rear wheels on the GT. I can't remember the part# but they work great with all wheels I have used. And they don't come off!
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Old 06-13-2004, 12:41 PM   #6476
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Default V2 rear-end and body post Q?

Here's the deal. I own the older NTC3 and am awaiting the release of the V2 retrofit kit. In the meantime, I've rebuilt the car (AE hard-anodized chassis, fresh balls/rings in the diffs, stripped plastic parts replaced, etc.). I've also bought a new 200mm Alpha Romeo body, but before I start cutting it out, want to know if the rear body post positioning between the V1 & V2 versions of the car are identical? It would be a shame to trim and paint up the body, only to discover that the rear posts are off...
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Old 06-13-2004, 12:53 PM   #6477
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I haven't been keeping up with this thread, so forgive me if this has already been talked about. Any ideas on getting some off power steering when running the diff? This weekend I tried to run the oneway, but I lost consistency with the oneway and overall ran faster with the diff despite a push off power. The oneway gave me more corner speed, but I had to tender foot it too much. Any ideas would be appreciated!

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Old 06-13-2004, 07:05 PM   #6478
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Default Post Location

v2 rear end has the posts behind the shock tower, instead of in front. However, with the Alfa body, the posts are in the window. So, don't drill them until you get it put together.
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Old 06-13-2004, 07:55 PM   #6479
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Default Diff problem...

Did anyone blow the diff before and isn't it common for NTC3. I did it today, I practiced for 1 tank before race. During the first qualify, I ran about 5 minutes, didn't hit anything, and suddenly I feel like only running first gear. I ran about 2 more laps and the rear diff gear gone. I opened up the rear diff. and found out the transmisson case inside melted onto the bearings, the diff gear also melted with the diff ball. I really don't know what I did wrong. I bought this car about a month and it ran through about 2/3 gallon of feul. Does anyone know what happen. Thanks
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Old 06-13-2004, 08:55 PM   #6480
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I have a buddy that would strip those diff gears 2 to 3 time in a race day last year. I my self have been running mine all of last year and so far this year with practice 2 to 3 time a week and racing on every Saturday and have yet to strip the diff gears. I am still running the ones that came in the kit. My buddy thinks it is because I run a 3s 4mm chassis and alumium diff cases. I'm also running a front one-way.
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