WeatherB

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, I already know that...

I just want someone to confirm that in that scenario you would richen or lean the low end.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Well I know I had the issue and I forget what exactly fixed it. But the basics say richening will fix it, if its at least correctly tuned. If you say it fixed it, then im pretty confident thats the route I went as well.

Just wanted to give all the info I could think of.

WeatherB

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, but the weird thing is that I remember before leaning it would fix the problem. So i'm confused.

Speedbug

I have had the same issue and found that it wasn't the mixture but the actual barrel in the carby sticking slightly on return. i fixed this by making sure the servo arm pulls the carby in a dead straight line. The barrels are a very tight tolerance to get a good seal, so any side ways pulling can cause the barrel to jam slightly when returning to idle. You may have to trim the radio plate to get a perfect straight line, and also took the barrel out to take off any sharpe edges that were getting caught. By doing these two things the carby now returns to perfect idle each time.

WeatherB

iTrader: (4)

Got the answer from rcnitro:

If the engine spools down and rpm drops uncharacteristically low, it indicates that the low-speed-mixture setting is too rich. Or, if the engine takes too long to reach a steady idle and seems to want to keep revving, that tells you the low-speed-mixture setting is too lean.

JAG Racing

When you say rear is loose -- is this "on-power" or "off-power"?
Take all four shocks off and verify all suspensions arms drop freely. Also, start with > 3 - 4 mm of "up-travel" on front and rear. On a bumpy track, you will need a lot of travel in your suspension to handle the bumps. I have seen similar problems when I dial out travel to minimize suspension roll.

AMGRacer

If the motor carrys high RPM after it has a burst of WOT it means that the bottom end is lean usually. There are some other possibilities to do with plugs and hot spots on the combustion chamber but always try richening slightly first like you did. If it does not go away then you need to look a little harder.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

You know thats odd cause I kinda feel like some situations it might be different as well. Maybe in some rare instances it could be the opposite.

Thats why when I tune sometimes I try the richer and leaner from the base point...unless im up in temp.

WeatherB

iTrader: (4)

exactly...

fastrcracer

WHat is the latest version of the R40 with all the hop-ups and where can you get it ?

Thanks

k_brian

I think thats the 2004 Hara edition R40. i think its only available in asia. i got mine in singapore.

fastrcracer

Do you have a web site from where you got yours ?

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

I got both my 2004 kits from jet hobbies....but they are not resomding to emails......I might sell one of the kits...if interested,PM me.....350,shipped to the US...

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Great I got it to work finally!

I finally got to view some new setup sheets from japan drivers. Dated 8.8.2004 for the latest from Akira Ema.

If you want you can try to view them direct (it might work): http://hpiracing.co.jp/contents/setup/pdf/ema040808.pdf

Otherwise, Ill post them up in jpg form later tonight for those who want to try it out.

ChrisR40

iTrader: (4)

thank you for helping me with my clutch setup and this past weekend during the 3rd heat I hit the wall (board) and cleanly broke my right front drive axle. No twist marks just a clean break. Has anybody had that happen to them before??