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Old 10-28-2009, 09:34 AM   #1501
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Aren't we all happy this morning. I told them I learned a bunch from a has been mechanic to the wg's of the world...and I offered to take some In N Out!
Check your email Mark.
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Old 10-28-2009, 09:12 PM   #1502
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http://motonica.blogspot.com/2009/10...ll-in-box.html

build is almost done....... so far so good!
Looks great Kodak, what kind of servos are you putting in that animal Ive been recently using the Sanwa ERG-VZ and RZ and loving them
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:10 AM   #1503
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Looks great Kodak, what kind of servos are you putting in that animal Ive been recently using the Sanwa ERG-VZ and RZ and loving them
Using Futaba Servos - as i use them in my 1/10th so keeping the same to prevent any issues:

1 x FUTM0552 Futaba BLS451 Digital Brushless High Torque/Speed Servo 9



1 x FUTM0300 Futaba S3050 Digital Standard Height Ball Bearing Metal Gear Servo



They should do me good
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Old 10-29-2009, 12:23 AM   #1504
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The Futaba brushless servo is light and consume less power.
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:16 AM   #1505
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
Using Futaba Servos - as i use them in my 1/10th so keeping the same to prevent any issues:

1 x FUTM0552 Futaba BLS451 Digital Brushless High Torque/Speed Servo 9



1 x FUTM0300 Futaba S3050 Digital Standard Height Ball Bearing Metal Gear Servo



They should do me good
great choice, know a few guys who rave about those futaba brushless, good luck and RACE HARD!
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:33 AM   #1506
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cheers physco,

ill do my best, first ever 1/8th after a few years in 1/10th - but looking forward to some fast, hard racing!

not long now!
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Old 10-29-2009, 07:05 AM   #1507
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Hey got a question for you all,

Clutch spring settings how much do you all tighten down? plus what sort of gap do you all have for the clutch setting end play?
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Old 10-29-2009, 09:33 AM   #1508
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The simple way I set it is this:
Place the flyweights over the pins so they swing out, much like the shoes in an off road 3 shoe clutch.
Tighten the spring nut until it is just below flush with the threaded portion of the crankshaft.
Place enough shims over the crankshaft so that the clutch bell spins freely off the clutch shoe.
Assemble the remaining thrust bearing assembly and tighten the screw. The bell should have about 0.3~0.5mm of movement. Add shims as needed between thrust bearing and screw housing.
Allow the clutch to break in and seat in place and recheck all settings. Adjust as needed on the track.
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Old 10-30-2009, 06:11 AM   #1509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garen View Post
Aren't we all happy this morning. I told them I learned a bunch from a has been mechanic to the wg's of the world...and I offered to take some In N Out!
Check your email Mark.
You might add Broke-Down Driver also, however I do remember a Teal Green POS car placing about mid pac at the Nationals open 4WD main sometime in the early 1990's. So I guess he had some redeeming results in this hobby.

Dale
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:26 AM   #1510
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You might add Broke-Down Driver also, however I do remember a Teal Green POS car placing about mid pac at the Nationals open 4WD main sometime in the early 1990's. So I guess he had some redeeming results in this hobby.

Dale
I remember the time when someone punted that teal Green POS in Dallas at the end of the sweeper,it cleared the fence........ DALE
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Old 10-30-2009, 07:38 AM   #1511
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I remember the time when someone punted that teal Green POS in Dallas at the end of the sweeper,it cleared the fence........ DALE
Chris,
Yeah, not one of my better moments, I think Mark still holds that one against me, rightly so!!! So nice of you to remind us all of that incident:

Dale
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Old 10-31-2009, 08:23 AM   #1512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garen View Post
The simple way I set it is this:
Place the flyweights over the pins so they swing out, much like the shoes in an off road 3 shoe clutch.
Tighten the spring nut until it is just below flush with the threaded portion of the crankshaft.
Place enough shims over the crankshaft so that the clutch bell spins freely off the clutch shoe.
Assemble the remaining thrust bearing assembly and tighten the screw. The bell should have about 0.3~0.5mm of movement. Add shims as needed between thrust bearing and screw housing.
Allow the clutch to break in and seat in place and recheck all settings. Adjust as needed on the track.
Thanks for the tip Garen. I am loving the Motonica. Finding the soft clutch setup is bad, i have worn out 2 clutch shoes and engine performance is poor. I am using shortened serpent 'flipper' shoes on the fly wheel. Kodak set the cluthc nut down 1.2-1.7mm for your track then shim as garen says. About .4 is about good. Had a run today, besides the the clutch issues, once sorted the big M was on fire.
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Old 11-01-2009, 01:18 AM   #1513
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Hey Guys,

Well i have been rather busy doing my build - and i have finally finished the body, YES its PINK but its the colour i have been running this year! Enjoy the pics guys....









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Old 11-01-2009, 03:55 AM   #1514
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FN Awesome Kodak, job well done, now go out there and kick some 1/8 a$$, best of luck dude dont forget PINK IS THE NEW BLACK!
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Old 11-01-2009, 03:58 AM   #1515
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FN Awesome Kodak, job well done, now go out there and kick some 1/8 a$$, best of luck dude dont forget PINK IS THE NEW BLACK!
Cheers man - yeah i dig the pink its been a very lucky colour so i am running it again with the 8th scale!

Looking forward in a new level of racing
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