the people who posted before you are 10 bucks cheaper....

I dont know if this question was asked,what receiver pack works best in the nt1,so the tank can be in its lowest position....

I have not seen this information posted online yet. It would probably be best to ask the question in the Team XRAY NT1 forum, to get an idea of what they had in mind:

http://forum.teamxray.com/viewforum.php?f=21

I need your help.... I can not figure out what screw control the gear mesh... I have try each set... been over the instructions a 100 times... I can not figure it out... Can some one help....???

Question(s) for those that have built the car:

Did you have to back out the two screws that hold the brake pads in order to insert the brake disc? If so, how much room did you leave between the brake pads and/or how many turns did you back out the screws? Also, is your intention to adjust the gap once you get to the track or do you intend to leave it that way?

Thanks! :)

P.S. I did see Tim McKay's post in the XRAY thread.

http://www.nitrokb.com/images/nt1_brake_question.jpg

I had to back out about 4 turns so the disc would fit in.... then I will fine adjust at the track...

What engine are you using?

Assuming that you are following the instructions on the top right of page 29, are you saying that the gears are too close or too far apart? Can you post a photo?

OS TZ .12 Blue head engine.... gears are 17/21.... no matter what set of screws I loosen, it does not allow me to adjust the mesh... The good thing is this correct mesh for these gears... :D I will try to take some pictures...

No sloting for movement.... on the ones that I have....

Is your tuned pipe disconnected? Have you tried loosening the top most engine mount screws and the bottom engine mount screws at the same time?

Just some additional ideas...

You should :lol: :lol:

When doing this on mine, I was confused at first too. I ended up loosening the 4 screws that go the "motor Stands", those are the ones that are attatched to the engine tabs. This was the only way I could get the gear mesh set correctly, but I like the fact that I can remove the engine by just loosening the engine stand screws and I don't have to remove anything else.

you need a slice of fuel tubing between the brack pads to keep from draging

I remember someone replying to me, "Funny how Xray supporters always call them the Ferrari of r/c cars."

Ferrari vs. XRAY NT1 - Hottest contest
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...test%20contest

"He who laughs last..." :lol: :lol: :lol:

Marketing is grand. I saw HPI do the same thing. Except they pitted the r40 vs a wrc rally car. Either way the RC car is going to cream a street based ferrari up to the rc cars top speed, where the ferrari would then finally pass it by if the race continued.