Xray NT1
#5731
#5733
#5734
Tech Apprentice
-Never liked the XCA clutch, with very high powered engine it lacked punch and started to fade in long mains. Maybe the new shoe will improve it.
I like the original clutch with the alu bell and lightweight flywheel a lot better.
Doesn't come close to a Capricorn WCE clutch though.
Some said alu xray bell have durability issues, developing some weird tracks due to material softness...Did you noticed that ?
CSO have different flywheels, 4.8 and 6.8 grams. Which one have you been using ?
Thanks.
Last edited by Cobra zz; 10-24-2010 at 02:30 AM.
#5736
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
I've heard this as well, however I've had the same alu bell in the car for over a year.
It think it comes down to maintenance and how dirty your track is, if you're running on a very dirty track the sand and small stones can cause these tracks.
I clean my clutch after every practice day and roughen up the bell with Scotch brite, this keeps the clutch assembly in good condition.
I don't know which flywheel I had, when I ordered it there was only one flywheel. Can't measure mine as I already sold one NT1.
But I would go for the lightest one off course.
#5737
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Capricorn Magnesium Radiotray mounts
It's possible to fit the recently released Capricorn magnesium radiotray mounts to your NT1.
http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1326
http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1070
However you need to modify the carbon bracket which holds the side belt tensioner as you can see in the pics.
Changing the bolt in the engine mount to a button head and slightly modifying the carbon bracket should make it work.
Also I would recommend changing the composite brace to a tierod as you can see in the pics.
The plastic brace causes tweak (also with the stock setup) and with the tierod combined with aluminum/magnesium radiotray mounts will give more overall mid corner grip.
http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1326
http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1070
However you need to modify the carbon bracket which holds the side belt tensioner as you can see in the pics.
Changing the bolt in the engine mount to a button head and slightly modifying the carbon bracket should make it work.
Also I would recommend changing the composite brace to a tierod as you can see in the pics.
The plastic brace causes tweak (also with the stock setup) and with the tierod combined with aluminum/magnesium radiotray mounts will give more overall mid corner grip.
#5738
Tech Apprentice
Thanks for the info DS.
BTW, How did you manage to do the holes in the pulleys' cover ? It's a pieceof fine art !!! LOL
BTW, How did you manage to do the holes in the pulleys' cover ? It's a pieceof fine art !!! LOL
#5740
It's possible to fit the recently released Capricorn magnesium radiotray mounts to your NT1.
http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1326
http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1070
However you need to modify the carbon bracket which holds the side belt tensioner as you can see in the pics.
Changing the bolt in the engine mount to a button head and slightly modifying the carbon bracket should make it work.
Also I would recommend changing the composite brace to a tierod as you can see in the pics.
The plastic brace causes tweak (also with the stock setup) and with the tierod combined with aluminum/magnesium radiotray mounts will give more overall mid corner grip.
http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1326
http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1070
However you need to modify the carbon bracket which holds the side belt tensioner as you can see in the pics.
Changing the bolt in the engine mount to a button head and slightly modifying the carbon bracket should make it work.
Also I would recommend changing the composite brace to a tierod as you can see in the pics.
The plastic brace causes tweak (also with the stock setup) and with the tierod combined with aluminum/magnesium radiotray mounts will give more overall mid corner grip.
#5742
I would check the bearings in the main shaft as well as the bearing in the 2 speed carrier.
#5743
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
Check bearings in the two speed, check the place where the two speed shaft and the one way bearing touch on the shaft. ALSO make sure your not running a split over 5 for the pinions. If you start trying to run an 18 tooth pinion with a 21 tooth second gear you will strip them every time. I check gear mesh of second with first gear not installed. then slide on first (spur) and check first separately. They should be as tight as possible while still spinning free. Hope that makes sense. also make sure your tightening the engine mount screws and using blue loctite. After all that check to make sure your chassis is straight. If its bent that will change gear mesh max/min.
I can say I have never stripped an NT1 spur gear.
I can say I have never stripped an NT1 spur gear.
Last edited by rx7ttlm; 11-02-2010 at 09:21 PM.
#5744
I check gear mesh of second with first gear not installed. then slide on first (spur) and check first separately. They should be as tight as possible while still spinning free. Hope that makes sense. also make sure your tightening the engine mount screws and using blue loctite. After all that check to make sure your chassis is straight. If its bent that will change gear mesh max/min.
I can say I have never stripped an NT1 spur gear.
I can say I have never stripped an NT1 spur gear.
Never stripped after using this technique
#5745
maybe Engine front bearing/Clutch bearing !
last change rear bulkhead !