Well, until now that never has happenend.
When somebody wants to t-bone me they always seem to aim for the pipe. :lol:

With the new transponder this shouldn't be a problem, it has twice the output compared to the old transponder. Off course I will check the strength of the signal, but I expect it to be better as a horizontal old transponder.

very nice work but if i were you i would reconsider using the radio box.
A hit to the receiver can cost you a race and a receiver... After all, you need some weight, right? ;)

I had t-bone experience before with my mrx4-r ..... my friend's car lost grip and he hit sidewall. His car stop at the middle of straight way and I hit him. Now my car is parking almost at the end of straight lane before a sweeper !! Consequently my car become the next victim from even a faster car !!! and BANG :(:( ....

It really hurts my day ( and pocket ) because I lost : receiver, crystal, graphite upper deck, rear suspension arm right side, chipping rear tires, bent rear sway bar, bent brake linkage, rear upper arm right side and throttle servo ( luckily it need only new casing ).

I was wondering the same. I just finished my EC and it left the receiver totally exposed. Did a lot of people use it or do most stick with the box?

Over here pretty much everyone runs the car without the box.
Never heard of someone destroying his receiver because he got t-boned.
Another reason why I happily take the 'risk' is the fact that I haven't crashed or damaged the car all year last season.
If you have a bit more experience you're able to keep the crashing to a minimum and you are also able to avoid being hit by others because you can look further in front and behind your car.

It's a good way to save weight and you will need less weight to balance the car.

AMB... I'd mount it vertically behind steering servo on my EP for...3+ yrs and never had any mis-counting.

I still run radio box, because the choice between 50usd receiver and 50g more weight, I choice more weight...:batman:

Hi guys,

I got myself a 09 NT1 and I'm going thru it and rebuilding it and it's a nice car, I can't wait to run it.:nod:

I'm also working on a parts order but I have a question about the steering blocks. There are the V2 and the 1deg ones, I have seen the pic on xrays website of how there different but what does the difference do?? More steering, less steering??

Also what weight are the silver springs that come with the 09'?

Thanks,

V2 suspension parts mostly have revised threads (the V1 parts threads were cut to large and would shift with vibration) so you end up using a thread locking compound or super glue, the 1 degree blocks will give a little bit less steering at turn in, but more steering mid to exit.

Cheers,

Patrick

What's the purpose of having a longer piece of fuel tubing from the tank to the pipe?

It adds volume to the tank, which helps to lessen the over all pressure. People find that they get an increase in run time with less tank pressure...

Also, the 1degree kingpins tend to work better on high bite tracks giving the car more overall steering than the standards. On low bite I always use the Standards. the kit springs are 33lbs in the front and 28lbs in the rear;)

When i measured my kit springs they were the same thickness, how come they have different lbs ratings?

Is it because the front is shorter than the rears? Or did i not measure them to well?

Besides reducing fuel consumption, a longer pressure line also smoothens throttle response.
When I had a few Picco's to test I ran a fairly long pressure line to smooth out the throttle response.
With my current engines I run the shortest line possible to have a very reactive engine, but it is still smooth because of the engine's character.
Very rarely I have runtime issues but when they do occur I prefer running a smaller restrictor or add 0.1 of head clearance instead of adding a exhaust gas cooler or increasing pressure line length.

Thickness is not the only factor for calculating spring rate.

The formula for calculating the springrate of a compression spring is the following:

K= G*d^4/8*D^3*n

where:

K= Constant, load of pounds per inch of deflection

G= Modulus of rigidity (80.000 N/mm^2 for springsteel)

d= wire diameter

D= mean coil diameter: outer diameter- wire thickness

n= number of active coils

So all of these variables influence K, the actual springrate.

If you want to do some calculations go here:

http://www.engineersedge.com/calcula...ring_k_pop.htm

It's a very good website in general.

Yo, DS, what battery capacity in this picture ? LiPo ? LiFe ? .... Thanks ;)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e3...t/100_3128.jpg