Only IF you can drive without crashing..... , a graphite chassis would benefit into more grip situation. Perhaps that extra grip can translate into better lap times.

IF your driving still involve crashing , or car is running too low ride height, the graphite chassis usually crack very easily. Durability is problem with graphite chassis.

Heat transfer probably would be worse than allumunium chassis. However, Graphite chassis can take the engine heat without problem.

RS = rat shit

Yep. Durability could be a problem.
If someone have already tested it, let us know.

Thanks guys.

A carbon chassis doesn't work.

It removes a lot of weight out of a place you don't want: the lowest place of the car.

So it raises the CoG and will make the car a lot stiffer, two things which are not good in most cases.
The only situation you might want to use a carbon chassis is when you have extreme traction roll. Then you could have a big advantage by using a 4mm thick carbon chassis and a thicker radioplate. But also then you have to take in consideration that the carbon raises the CoG.

Furthermore it changes the heat dissipation around the engine. Some say it will actually improve, so the engine stays cooler, and others say the engine will get hotter. If the engine will run cooler you can try a smaller cooling head on the engine to compensate for the CoG.

@ Lil Bump

Thank you, it was 4 am when i posted my reaction, didn't feel like looking it up in the dictionary.

I used the carbon fibre chassis and liked it. It's a good extra chassis to have, plus it doesn't hurt to try for $60.

in Cold temp many peoples use this !

Hi there,
I pit with Samuel(CSO) who made the Graphite chassis.
If weight is not a issue, then I highly recommend it. But if you need to add extra weight back to the car to pass tech, then not much point other then it looks cool!.

The Graphite Chassis also flex more than the original chassis.

I dont think the heat have any issue or related to engine vs graphite. In theory may be but I been tuning his engine from day one and found no affect if track temp of 50C or 15C, just tune it as you would with any other chassis. His engine was the same on performance, durability, fuel consumption over the pass 1 year or more he been testing.

hope this help

Interesting point Kitracer...

So in low grip track conditions, more flex could help.
What about durability concerns ?

Thanks.

more grip

With the extra flex, I would use it on low grip condition over the original chassis at a club but I raced once in touring this year so I can't say much about durability.
Normal wear I dont think is as strong as the aluminum ( bottoming the chassis etc.) but when it comes to light crash because it flex more, it should return to normal more so than aluminum.

Hi folk I have an issue with my clutch/engine after settting up my clutch and running 3 laps the bolt which locks the engine clutch in place un-winds and clutch no longer engages properly and plugs are destroyed.

I have rebuilt my clutch as per manual on many occasions and it still occurs. Can some one recommend some for me, another racer recommended I put loctite on the bolt then tighten. But I am not sure as to what effect that would have in the long run or is this a regular work around ??

This is the bolt right above the thrust bearing.

Use loctite on the clutch nut and the clutch adjustment nut, that should solve your issue

Use very little loctite and you should be fine. You just want enough on there to prevent things from unwinding. Make sure to use blue loctite, not red.

Thanks guys will add some loctite, I also just learnt the bolt is referred to as the end bell screw

Xceed New Product
XS Clutch 1/10 with Xray Bell
Flywheel 30mm

How does this clutch differ from the stock clutch, dynamic clutch or even the light weight clutch?

How much is it?