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Old 12-29-2009, 07:25 AM   #4681
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hello fellas

to me the stock clucht or dynamic is works very well with orion spring or msr..

happy holidays to all

ciao
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Old 01-01-2010, 03:12 PM   #4682
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I have my NT1 for sale here;

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...es-spares.html
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Old 01-02-2010, 08:03 AM   #4683
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When the XRAY is gonna release 1/8 scale? You guyz heard something?
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Old 01-05-2010, 11:35 PM   #4684
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I want to replace the bearing in my two speed carrier(335520) do i need to replace the whole thing or do i just heat/punch it out as it seems like it's in there pretty good.

If i'm able to replace just the bearing would i be able to put a steel shielded one in or do i have use a rubber shielded like what's already there?
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Old 01-06-2010, 01:43 AM   #4685
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I want to replace the bearing in my two speed carrier(335520) do i need to replace the whole thing or do i just heat/punch it out as it seems like it's in there pretty good.

If i'm able to replace just the bearing would i be able to put a steel shielded one in or do i have use a rubber shielded like what's already there?
Bench press machine was use to push the bearing inside the 2nd gear housing. ( probably it will be too tight to push the bearing out with garage tools ). I suggest you buy new one.
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Old 01-06-2010, 04:01 AM   #4686
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When the 2010 spec its gonna be released? The truggy is allready released!!
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:11 AM   #4687
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When the 2010 spec its gonna be released? The truggy is allready released!!
I don't think it will be any NT1 2010 http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...910c6fdaf9aa7e so 2009 is the current car.
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Old 01-06-2010, 05:48 AM   #4688
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When the 2010 spec its gonna be released? The truggy is allready released!!
Haven't you seen the website? It's 2010 ready!
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Old 01-06-2010, 06:31 AM   #4689
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
I want to replace the bearing in my two speed carrier(335520) do i need to replace the whole thing or do i just heat/punch it out as it seems like it's in there pretty good.

If i'm able to replace just the bearing would i be able to put a steel shielded one in or do i have use a rubber shielded like what's already there?
Brad, heat in oven it will be very easy to tap it out and insert the new one. Done it many times, get a better bearing it will save you few 2nd gear.
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Old 01-07-2010, 02:25 AM   #4690
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Brad, heat in oven it will be very easy to tap it out and insert the new one. Done it many times, get a better bearing it will save you few 2nd gear.
Thanks Tommy
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Old 01-07-2010, 11:33 AM   #4691
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NT1 08 with new motor,upgrades & alot of extras in packages, PRICED TO SELL: http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...iced-sell.html
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:17 AM   #4692
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Recently all new parts needed to build my 2010 NT1 arrived.
But before I can start final assembly all the electronics need to be rewired, and since i'm still waiting on my new soldering station I decided to weigh all the loose components to discover what the weight is going to be. Since this was my main goal for 2010 car: getting all the weight as low as possible and as centered as possible.
And the total weight was, just like it would me weighted after a race, so without fuel and bare rims. It weighted 1536 grams!!.
And that is with the stock diff internals( lightweight ones from capricorn are on order), and the stock bumper (planning to run the car with the wide plastic bumper and without the foam).
So I think I will get it within the 14xx range.
Now the question, how in hell i'm getting it up to the legal 1700?.

Will post pictures when the car is completed
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Old 01-08-2010, 08:35 AM   #4693
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Recently all new parts needed to build my 2010 NT1 arrived.
But before I can start final assembly all the electronics need to be rewired, and since i'm still waiting on my new soldering station I decided to weigh all the loose components to discover what the weight is going to be. Since this was my main goal for 2010 car: getting all the weight as low as possible and as centered as possible.
And the total weight was, just like it would me weighted after a race, so without fuel and bare rims. It weighted 1536 grams!!.
And that is with the stock diff internals( lightweight ones from capricorn are on order), and the stock bumper (planning to run the car with the wide plastic bumper and without the foam).
So I think I will get it within the 14xx range.
Now the question, how in hell i'm getting it up to the legal 1700?.

Will post pictures when the car is completed

Some optional parts will get you some extra weight:

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=2980

http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=2649

Maybe going with the hard bumper. Did you also include the body in your equation? Sounds like you're using low profile servos?

You should be good with body, or maybe need just a bit of weight.

I have regular servos, all the lightweight parts, and the aluminum pivot balls and I had to add 10 grams to the car. Probably more if tires were lower.
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Old 01-08-2010, 09:13 AM   #4694
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It includes the body.
Yes, I use two low profile servos.
I already have the brass battery tray and the 30 gram weight.
But with these parts I will never get to the 1700 grams.

Fired up the Cad system to check how much brass I will need and if it is even possible to fit that much to the car. Will need 175-200 grams of ballast.
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Old 01-08-2010, 09:16 AM   #4695
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
It includes the body.
Yes, I use two low profile servos.
I already have the brass battery tray and the 30 gram weight.
But with these parts I will never get to the 1700 grams.

Fired up the Cad system to check how much brass I will need and if it is even possible to fit that much to the car. Will need 175-200 grams of ballast.
I think legal weight is 1625 grams. I don't know how you got it down so far, low profile servos aren't that far off from regular sized servos.
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