this was a first for me anyway has anyone had there clutch spring round nut come loose during a 20min race, I always tighten it up finger tight which gives me a few threads exposed on the flywheel nut and I adjust my clutch gap/end play after that. anyone else had this problem?:confused: only problem was That I missed a race cause the clutch was engaging continuously and stalled the minute it hit the ground:mad:

I've had that happen before, but what I did to resolve the issue was take a screwdriver and just ding a thread on the nut to keep it from turning easily. . Then the next time I get parts, replace it.

It's happen to me once or twice with a really hard spring. Use a dab of thread lock on the threads of the adj nut and you should be good...:nod:

leaking diffs
 

I'm yet to actually drive my car.

I've built the diffs, and didn't find much time during the following weeks to do much more with the car, and when i came back, the diffs were very slowly slowly leaking.

So i rebuilt with new washers i bought, and found the old ones were 'crimped' when i first built them.

Again, after i rebuilt the diffs, i haven't had much time to do much more with the car, and now i've come back again, and they are very slowly slowly leaking again...not enough to form an actual drop of oil, but you can see that it's wet around the join area on the front diff, and a little around the screw on the rear diff.

Is this normal, or should there be no leaking AT ALL??

The rubber orings are usually only good for one diff and cannot be re-used.

Most use a gasket sealant of some sort with the orings to prevent leakage.

glenn totally ditch that o ring, and get some loctite silicone gasket sealant and put a bead of this around the "L" edge of the diff case, then close it up, clean up the excess that squeezes out once the screws are put in with a cotton ear bud.

put the sealant on the edge, and be sure not to go too close to the inside part of the diffcase, avoid it going into the diff when you close it up with the screws

after this, it will never leak, maybe only a fraction on the outdrives but will stay good for at least a full year of racing easy

after Tom recommended this to me I have never had a problem with diffs leaking and not worried to rebuild them often, use the red tube locktight gasket sealant its not cheap but it does the job the best:nod:
cheers

Cheers Tom!

I can see how this would help with the front gear diff. You mean though to put it on the L edge, exactly where the o ring sits yeah?? (and forget o ring altogether??)

With the rear diff, i do exactly the same, forget the o ring, and put some sealant exactly where the o ring used to sit??

Any idea why on the rear diff, it would leak around one of the screws, when i've tightened them in the right order, and nice and 'snug', not loose.

And just to be a pain, where's it easiest to pick up the Loctite sealant?? YOu have a part number or something so i get the right one??

Thanks in advance, and see you at the track one day...soon i hope!

yep that's right the L section where the o ring sits. it is Loctite number 518 flange sealant, i bought it from the shop next door to cmc. but i think most auto shops will have it. you can clean it right off when you do a total rebuild, just pick at it with your nails, or a blade.

it probably leaks out of one screw hole as you tightened it down too much on one side first and the plastic is a bit warped.

About xray leaking diff unit, the problem is basically imperfect design of diff unit enclosure :

1. no gasket seal plate like in mugen seiki or like in buggy gear box.... instead, xray use a thin o-ring, which must be replace after every maintenance. Used o-ring usually will be out of place when diff cover is closed.

2. the screws that sandwich together diff cover to diff unit, they are simply too short, thus not up to the job to secure the diff cover from constant abuse of rotation. Possibly the silicone oil sip out from the cover. My friend one time lost the cover during final, he was holding 3rd position at minutes 40 :rolleyes:

3. the seal o-ring where the outdrives inserted into the diff unit, it's not up too the job either. The slicone oil easily sip out through the outdrive's shaft. I notice the oil existance near the outdrive area. I think this is the most common leaking spot.

Mugen MTX4 also have this problem too .... , mainly due to #3.

45gr LiPo
 

Hello Romuald...I know you are working on a NT1 SUPERLEGGERA and so that you are searching for a lightweight battery pack..
..I want to suggest you a excellent Italian product regarding this field
The new Smart Power Pack created by Edge of Power. No regulator and a constant 6V current. This is 1 cell LiPo with a voltage of 3,7V and a special electronic circuit that elevates the voltage to 6V. Than there's a switch that permits you to turn on/off the current end it also indicates you (within a led) the state of charge of the battery (it is green when the pack is ok, orange when it's going to "finish" and went red when you are on the limit)
This pack gives you an autonomy of 70 almost minutes
Only 45grams!!!!!!!!!

You can find more information on the site of "Edge of Embedded"

bye!

if anyone is looking for some extra bearings and stuff check this out.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...t-1-parts.html

After some tanks running perfectly, my clutch developed a strange behavior like engaging and disengaging fastly when out corners in mid acceleration.
With full throttle the problem disapears.

The clutch was rebuilt and the gaps are ok.
Could it be just spring preload ? Or something related to low end engine tuning ?

Thanks for your advice.

Mines doing the same thing Cobra.
What clutch settings/spring are you using?
I'm using the CRF square spring with .4mm gap and 1.2mm tension. Yellow shoe.

Cheers

KFactory black 1.8mm with 0.6 gap and 1.00 preload.