If you are running on a track that has not been blown off, I could see that to be an issue, but if you are picking up small rocks or sand, this will even wear down aluminum faster. I would look into doing two things. I cross drilled my side pully's so that in between each tooth, thier is a hole on each side of the pully. This will allow the dirt and smaller stuff to sling out the side of the pully instead of building up, causing wear on the pully and belts. The second thing is to look into getting a small parts brush that has very stiff bristles. after each run, take the belts/pully's and give them a quick once over and remove anything that might be stuck on or in them. This should extend the life of both.

Make sure that your not running the car anyplace but on the track. The sand and junk that gets into any car will wear it out, belt or shaft drive. Keep your car clean also with Serpent Cleaning Putty. Its about $14.00 and will last you at least a year or more. It works great for cleaning those hard to reach areas in the car. Keep the car clean and it will last a lot longer.

Hope this helps

I need to pick up one of those brushes, but you are right, I did notice alot of small dirt and grim in between the teeth on every pully. I'm going to have to replace them all because they are missing teeth here and there. Looks like something was melting them. How is it possible to clean them between qualifiers? It takes a little work to get that front pully system out to clean it, more than I have in some cases.

It is a bit of a pain, but if you have no choice but to run on a "dirty" track, get yourself a pick. you can get them at a hardware store or a tool liquidator. It makes getting down into small areas a lot more easy. And the Serpent Cleaning putty/gum works very well too.

Blow off the track first...I wont even come down and kick your ass if its not blown off. :sneaky:

Thanks to XRAY and RC America for the great products and support. We had a good showing this past weekend at 301 Raceway with four XRAYS in the A main (almost 5).

Here's the top 5 finishers. I'm not sure of the rest of the order.

1. Melvin Aulston (Serpent)
2. Guy Hood (XRAY)
3. Arvin Nano (XRAY)
4. Craig Xavier (XRAY)
5. Duwahn Lee (Serpent)

Congrats to Craig on his Nitro debut using the NT1! We already knew he was fast in electric... :nod:

Should be a blower next time we go out, otherwise, no racing for me.

Good show.... Last weekend in Tampa at the SS Speedway:

1st Joe Sumasky NT1
2nd James Burrows NT1
3rd Luke Whitaker Serpent 720
4th Chris Lefebvre NT1
5th Ron Taylor Serpent 720(?)

I have one for you... I'm sure that someone here knows the cause of this one..

With the car front pointed at you, if you press down (setting the ride height), on the left hand side of the front, the whole rear end flexs up evenly... But when you press on the right hand side (pipe side)of the front, the left hand side of the rear end flexs up more then the right hand side.

I know something is not right here.. but what I can not figure out.

I have the sway bar in the front connected and it is flat, and I have the stand bar installed in the rear of the car, with the wire flat with the mounts for the rear sway bar. I also removed both (disconnected them) and I get the same results.

Can someone point me in the correct direction to fix this....

The car is tweaked and this could be 2 or 3 different things, but lets start by making sure that the shocks are the same length in the front left and right and rear left and right. make sure that all the pivot points on the car are free moving. Also make sure that if using the adjustable pistons, they are on the same amount of holes in the front and in the rear left to right.
Then, disconnecting the roll bars and try it again. Recheck the droop on the car too.

If you had a crash, check to make sure that the arms and or hinge pins are not bent. (the front lower arms tent to bend when hit hard)

If you still experiance this, you more than likely have a tweaked chassis, but I am sure this isn't the case. It is something in the shock/springs or sway bars.

Check to make sure you don't have a bent shock shaft.

Hope this helps you find your problem.

Great job! :)

Many thanks.... I will take a look at this stuff...

Yeah TEAMGP!

Thanks for all the advise. i guess if you ask the right questions and do your homework all will eventually pay off.. Im surprised at the different setups in the pits, and the car is working good for everyone. We talked about what i have found different and the car just totally came around...
Dropping my personal fastest lap there with a 21.4.. not too bad, now i will be able to try more tuning with the car to get it even closer.

C-ya @ 301 soon!!

Arv.

No prob! We'll get you in the 20's soon. :sneaky: :D

The difference in setups really shows how well the NT1 can be adapted for any driving style and still be fast. :nod:

It takes more time and a bit more elbow grease but I found a toothbrush works too. The hi-tech soft brissle brushes are not idea. A cheapy toothbrush with hard brissles, the ones that are bad for teeth, are good for cleaning.

Rob

I'm using the 3Racing front 27t mainly because of issues I found with the mounting screws and the multidiff. The screws seem to eventually tear at the screw mounting holes on the nylon gear and produce a bit of slop. For a while I was using a 19T mid-pulley with the 27t but took it off because the combo of aluminium pulleys seemed too hard on the front belt. A recently changed front belt died sooner than expected using the 2 alu pulleys.

While I do like the fact the aluminium looks cooler :cool: and doesn't seem to keep dirt locked in like the nylon, I found belts don't seem to last as long running on the aluminium pulleys.

Plus, on anything that rotates in the car you want to save as much weight as possible. Nylon is definitely lighter than aluminium, relatively cheap, and has decent reliablity (for a pulley).


Rob