Xray NT1
#2926
1. A good driver can still drive a below average chassis setup pretty fast
2. A good chassis setup will make a below average driver look good
3. A good driver with a killer chassis setup will suffer with SLOW lap times with a bad clutch setup, regardless of any other influences. He/she may even look fast, but the computer will tell the truth.
2. A good chassis setup will make a below average driver look good
3. A good driver with a killer chassis setup will suffer with SLOW lap times with a bad clutch setup, regardless of any other influences. He/she may even look fast, but the computer will tell the truth.
#2927
Hi guys......
I am going to be selling a large part of my 135 RC car collection, parts, engines, bodies, starter boxes, servos, kits, parts and accesories....My EBAY ID is therealfastharry...Great stuff is up there now......And I'm pricing everything cheap...Everything is in GREAT condition....
here's part of my collection......
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40662
thanks, harry......
I am going to be selling a large part of my 135 RC car collection, parts, engines, bodies, starter boxes, servos, kits, parts and accesories....My EBAY ID is therealfastharry...Great stuff is up there now......And I'm pricing everything cheap...Everything is in GREAT condition....
here's part of my collection......
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40662
thanks, harry......
#2928
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Nah.....but I have SO MUCH stuff, I am never going to use it....Alot of it is older, but new or like new....
I have a brand new Nova NSR12 S5 5 port turbo for 129 dollars..I have other engines as well.....plus a ton of older really cool bodies they don't even make any more......starter boxes( I own 10)...radio's, kits I'm never gonna build..( 3 HPI Super F1's!!!!)....
time to lighten the load a little.........
#2929
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
here is my modified nt1 disk. i've used two stock disks on my car to improve heat disipation and braking. i'm using the KM racing carbon fibre brake pads.
stage 1
i thought that it wasn't enough, so i went a little further. i elongated the channels so the air can escape through the disks as well:
i never had issues with the brakes overheating with two disks, but i wanted to do this just for the individual factor
stage 1
i thought that it wasn't enough, so i went a little further. i elongated the channels so the air can escape through the disks as well:
i never had issues with the brakes overheating with two disks, but i wanted to do this just for the individual factor
#2930
Harry, nice collection!
What are the NTC3's going for?
What are the NTC3's going for?
#2931
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
All very good points. To me, the driver skill, chassis setup and clutch setup are all very important. But I would have to say...
1. A good driver can still drive a below average chassis setup pretty fast
2. A good chassis setup will make a below average driver look good
3. A good driver with a killer chassis setup will suffer with SLOW lap times with a bad clutch setup, regardless of any other influences. He/she may even look fast, but the computer will tell the truth.
I think its more a case of the clutch tension being almost a single point of failure for lap times. Its a simple change that is often overlooked, undervalued and drivers don't really take the time to dial it in.
Whereas a drivers skill and the chassis setup both take a lot more time to fix.
Personally, every time I hit the track for my first run in practice, I've learned from other top drivers to always tune my motor and dial in the clutch tension immediately. Then I'll work on gearing, 2 speed and chassis setup, not necessarily in that order.
1. A good driver can still drive a below average chassis setup pretty fast
2. A good chassis setup will make a below average driver look good
3. A good driver with a killer chassis setup will suffer with SLOW lap times with a bad clutch setup, regardless of any other influences. He/she may even look fast, but the computer will tell the truth.
I think its more a case of the clutch tension being almost a single point of failure for lap times. Its a simple change that is often overlooked, undervalued and drivers don't really take the time to dial it in.
Whereas a drivers skill and the chassis setup both take a lot more time to fix.
Personally, every time I hit the track for my first run in practice, I've learned from other top drivers to always tune my motor and dial in the clutch tension immediately. Then I'll work on gearing, 2 speed and chassis setup, not necessarily in that order.
~Jason
#2932
Tech Regular
For example, if your car pulls to one side heavily, wasting time tuning the clutch is pointless. If your radio is glitching or your servos are acting weird, spending time on camber and toe won't get you racing. Bad fuel mileage is a smaller problem than a busted rear wing. A busted/warped wheel is a bigger problem than the two speed timing. The system you need to look at first is the system that is working least.
I would say though a lot of beginner racers pay a lot less attention than they should to the clutch which often results in blown bearings, overheating, poor fuel efficiency,etc. A lot of medium level racers will spend time getting it working to an adequate level but often stop playing with it once the car is driving okay. Well, at least I do that. It's typically the experienced/sponsored/pro drivers that really push hard to get the max out of the clutch. I'd have to say that getting the 'right' clutch setting takes significant experience.
#2933
Tech Regular
Hi Guys
I took my clutch nut off yesterday and the thrust bearing just fell apart in my hands. it was set to the factory setting and the car had done 2 litres of fuel including practice, qualifiers and 2 finals.
Is there a upgraded thrust bearing? ive put in a kyosho thrust bearing in the meantime to keep me going.
I took my clutch nut off yesterday and the thrust bearing just fell apart in my hands. it was set to the factory setting and the car had done 2 litres of fuel including practice, qualifiers and 2 finals.
Is there a upgraded thrust bearing? ive put in a kyosho thrust bearing in the meantime to keep me going.
#2934
Tech Regular
John, the xray thrust bearing isn't that good. the system they use to secure the balls (encased ina bronze ring) expands and begins to touch the sides of the clutch bell, and the holes the balls sit in become elongated. this causes clutch run on issues. i know cuz i've experienced it myself.
The only other thrust bearing that gave me problems was the Serpent Ceramic Nitride bearing. Lost one a couple years back and have used steel ever since. No problems . . . until my NT-1 in-kit bearing died.
#2935
Tech Regular
3Racing Clutch Bell
Anyone using the 3Racing lightened clutch bell? I'm thinking it over and was looking for feedback. Anyone?
#2936
( the original thrust bearing were broken into many pieces ).
#2937
#2938
Tech Regular
Do you remove the shields on the bearing? Or, do you sandwitch the bearing between 2 shims? Or, do you just use the bearing as is, no shims, with shields?
#2939
Tech Regular
#2940
Note : I always use 0.9mm thick shim ( 33 8586 , 33 8585 ) after the lock nut adjuster or centax spring tensioner. This ensure the bell is rotating freely, with or without load.