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Old 03-29-2008, 12:11 AM   #2926
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Originally Posted by teamgp View Post
1. A good driver can still drive a below average chassis setup pretty fast
2. A good chassis setup will make a below average driver look good
3. A good driver with a killer chassis setup will suffer with SLOW lap times with a bad clutch setup, regardless of any other influences. He/she may even look fast, but the computer will tell the truth.

I like that , nice explaination.
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Old 03-29-2008, 04:29 AM   #2927
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Hi guys......
I am going to be selling a large part of my 135 RC car collection, parts, engines, bodies, starter boxes, servos, kits, parts and accesories....My EBAY ID is therealfastharry...Great stuff is up there now......And I'm pricing everything cheap...Everything is in GREAT condition....
here's part of my collection......


http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40662


thanks, harry......
What's up Harry? Quitting the hobby?
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Old 03-29-2008, 06:29 AM   #2928
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What's up Harry? Quitting the hobby?

Nah.....but I have SO MUCH stuff, I am never going to use it....Alot of it is older, but new or like new....

I have a brand new Nova NSR12 S5 5 port turbo for 129 dollars..I have other engines as well.....plus a ton of older really cool bodies they don't even make any more......starter boxes( I own 10)...radio's, kits I'm never gonna build..( 3 HPI Super F1's!!!!)....

time to lighten the load a little.........
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Old 03-29-2008, 07:53 PM   #2929
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here is my modified nt1 disk. i've used two stock disks on my car to improve heat disipation and braking. i'm using the KM racing carbon fibre brake pads.

stage 1

i thought that it wasn't enough, so i went a little further. i elongated the channels so the air can escape through the disks as well:



i never had issues with the brakes overheating with two disks, but i wanted to do this just for the individual factor
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Old 03-29-2008, 08:03 PM   #2930
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Harry, nice collection!
What are the NTC3's going for?
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Old 03-29-2008, 10:21 PM   #2931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp View Post
All very good points. To me, the driver skill, chassis setup and clutch setup are all very important. But I would have to say...

1. A good driver can still drive a below average chassis setup pretty fast
2. A good chassis setup will make a below average driver look good
3. A good driver with a killer chassis setup will suffer with SLOW lap times with a bad clutch setup, regardless of any other influences. He/she may even look fast, but the computer will tell the truth.

I think its more a case of the clutch tension being almost a single point of failure for lap times. Its a simple change that is often overlooked, undervalued and drivers don't really take the time to dial it in.

Whereas a drivers skill and the chassis setup both take a lot more time to fix.

Personally, every time I hit the track for my first run in practice, I've learned from other top drivers to always tune my motor and dial in the clutch tension immediately. Then I'll work on gearing, 2 speed and chassis setup, not necessarily in that order.
That is some great info, especially about when you spoke on hitting the track!!!

~Jason
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Old 04-02-2008, 05:16 AM   #2932
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Originally Posted by MikeMalinconico View Post
O.K. So the clutch tool is not for you(sx7ttlm).
I KNOW THAT THE CLUTCH IS THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT SET UP ON A CAR.
I'm not sure that you can really rank parts of the car in any order. I mean you've got a group of integrated systems (powertrain, powerplant, suspension, radio, body, etc) but one isn't more important than another. The order of importance is completely up to the driver/mechanic in terms of which system needs attention most.

For example, if your car pulls to one side heavily, wasting time tuning the clutch is pointless. If your radio is glitching or your servos are acting weird, spending time on camber and toe won't get you racing. Bad fuel mileage is a smaller problem than a busted rear wing. A busted/warped wheel is a bigger problem than the two speed timing. The system you need to look at first is the system that is working least.

I would say though a lot of beginner racers pay a lot less attention than they should to the clutch which often results in blown bearings, overheating, poor fuel efficiency,etc. A lot of medium level racers will spend time getting it working to an adequate level but often stop playing with it once the car is driving okay. Well, at least I do that. It's typically the experienced/sponsored/pro drivers that really push hard to get the max out of the clutch. I'd have to say that getting the 'right' clutch setting takes significant experience.
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Old 04-02-2008, 05:33 AM   #2933
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Hi Guys
I took my clutch nut off yesterday and the thrust bearing just fell apart in my hands. it was set to the factory setting and the car had done 2 litres of fuel including practice, qualifiers and 2 finals.

Is there a upgraded thrust bearing? ive put in a kyosho thrust bearing in the meantime to keep me going.
I had a similar problem. Some of the balls fell out when I was using a motor spray cleaner to clean up the clutch. I bit too much pressure I guess?? I put in a Serpent thrust bearing and it works fine. Not a single problem with the Serpent bearing.
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Old 04-02-2008, 05:39 AM   #2934
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John, the xray thrust bearing isn't that good. the system they use to secure the balls (encased ina bronze ring) expands and begins to touch the sides of the clutch bell, and the holes the balls sit in become elongated. this causes clutch run on issues. i know cuz i've experienced it myself.
Whew! That's a relief. I haven't lost a thrust bearing in years and thought I screwed up. It is weird using a brass ring given how much brass expands over steel. Is this an electric thing?

The only other thrust bearing that gave me problems was the Serpent Ceramic Nitride bearing. Lost one a couple years back and have used steel ever since. No problems . . . until my NT-1 in-kit bearing died.
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Old 04-02-2008, 06:37 AM   #2935
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Default 3Racing Clutch Bell

Anyone using the 3Racing lightened clutch bell? I'm thinking it over and was looking for feedback. Anyone?
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Old 04-02-2008, 10:46 AM   #2936
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Originally Posted by going4#1 View Post
I had a similar problem. Some of the balls fell out when I was using a motor spray cleaner to clean up the clutch. I bit too much pressure I guess?? I put in a Serpent thrust bearing and it works fine. Not a single problem with the Serpent bearing.
I use 5x10 bearing instead of thrust bearing. So far no problem. Infact, I like it alot...... no more thrust bearing maintenance.

( the original thrust bearing were broken into many pieces ).
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Old 04-02-2008, 03:32 PM   #2937
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Anyone using the 3Racing lightened clutch bell? I'm thinking it over and was looking for feedback. Anyone?
Yeah no issues. I have a couple of them I use and they are priced right.
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Old 04-02-2008, 08:48 PM   #2938
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
I use 5x10 bearing instead of thrust bearing. So far no problem. Infact, I like it alot...... no more thrust bearing maintenance.

( the original thrust bearing were broken into many pieces ).
Do you remove the shields on the bearing? Or, do you sandwitch the bearing between 2 shims? Or, do you just use the bearing as is, no shims, with shields?
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Old 04-02-2008, 08:50 PM   #2939
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Yeah no issues. I have a couple of them I use and they are priced right.
One pro is telling me the material is slightly different than Xray causing a change in performance re the clutch shoe. Could this be true or is it a 'if it's cheap it can't be good' bias?
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Old 04-02-2008, 11:45 PM   #2940
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Do you remove the shields on the bearing? Or, do you sandwitch the bearing between 2 shims? Or, do you just use the bearing as is, no shims, with shields?
I use 5x10 bearing AS IS , no more shims before or after.

Note : I always use 0.9mm thick shim ( 33 8586 , 33 8585 ) after the lock nut adjuster or centax spring tensioner. This ensure the bell is rotating freely, with or without load.
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