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Old 07-04-2007, 01:01 AM   #1501
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Question. Are most of you fellas satisfied with the tension your getting with the middle belt? just curious since I'm still building mine & I tested the adjustment on the belt tension and the tightest position is not sufficient enough or am I wrong?
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Old 07-04-2007, 01:58 AM   #1502
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Question. Are most of you fellas satisfied with the tension your getting with the middle belt? just curious since I'm still building mine & I tested the adjustment on the belt tension and the tightest position is not sufficient enough or am I wrong?
I'm satisfied ... my tensioning arm is set at around the mid-point. If I move it to the very back, the belt gets too taut and really tight.
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Old 07-04-2007, 02:22 AM   #1503
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Thanks! I'll go by your word then since it was you who gave me alot of good tips and tricks on your review on the nt1 on your site hehe
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Old 07-04-2007, 02:26 AM   #1504
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Originally Posted by john dewey View Post
Question. Are most of you fellas satisfied with the tension your getting with the middle belt? just curious since I'm still building mine & I tested the adjustment on the belt tension and the tightest position is not sufficient enough or am I wrong?
tight belt tension had a little loss in acceleration. But the response is good.

But too loose belt tension cause on-power understeering in corner-exit.

proper tension is good!!
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Old 07-04-2007, 02:29 AM   #1505
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thanks for explaining both sides!
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Old 07-04-2007, 03:07 AM   #1506
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I set all the belts quite tight. Responsive

You can relax the middle belt ---> more turning power on full throttle.
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Last edited by asw7576; 07-04-2007 at 03:57 AM.
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Old 07-04-2007, 03:50 AM   #1507
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Originally Posted by john dewey View Post
Thanks! I'll go by your word then since it was you who gave me alot of good tips and tricks on your review on the nt1 on your site hehe
Like Gansei says, don't set the middle belt too tight or too loose, somewhere in between is good.
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Old 07-04-2007, 02:42 PM   #1508
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I have the same motor package I havent even run the 353 .you will be pleasantly with the practice motor.
http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?t=5411
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Old 07-05-2007, 08:00 AM   #1509
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I'm trying to setup the xray clutch and ran into small problem on the novarossi 353, are you doing any special tricks to get it to fit because it seems like the crank is too short (29.51mm) if you use the nova supplied 7mm collet, and even after filing it down to 5mm I end up with too many shims on the clutch gap to even space the bell off the shoe and then the endplay is non existent with the xray supplied end insert (6mm, vs kyosho's 7mm)
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Old 07-05-2007, 10:55 AM   #1510
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I'm trying to setup the xray clutch and ran into small problem on the novarossi 353, are you doing any special tricks to get it to fit because it seems like the crank is too short (29.51mm) if you use the nova supplied 7mm collet, and even after filing it down to 5mm I end up with too many shims on the clutch gap to even space the bell off the shoe and then the endplay is non existent with the xray supplied end insert (6mm, vs kyosho's 7mm)
Alternative #1: You can buy shorter collete from Mugen Seiki or G4S

Alternative #2: You can add 0.2mm shim before the collete you have in now. Team Magic has this crankshaft's outer bearing shim.

Alternative #3: If you insist to use 7mm original collete from Novarossi, You can buy Mugen Seiki H0756 ( the last part that hold the thrust bearing ). H0756 is longer than Xray.

BTW, check / read again the Xray manual about clutch gap vs end play before going to alternatives.
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Old 07-05-2007, 11:09 AM   #1511
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With the 25T side pulley I have been running my side belt at max tension which seems to be barely enough to keep it from skipping under braking.

Mark
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Old 07-05-2007, 01:07 PM   #1512
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Alternative #1: You can buy shorter collete from Mugen Seiki or G4S

Alternative #2: You can add 0.2mm shim before the collete you have in now. Team Magic has this crankshaft's outer bearing shim.

Alternative #3: If you insist to use 7mm original collete from Novarossi, You can buy Mugen Seiki H0756 ( the last part that hold the thrust bearing ). H0756 is longer than Xray.

BTW, check / read again the Xray manual about clutch gap vs end play before going to alternatives.
#3 seemed to be the best option for me because I already have a few kyosho clutches around. Even after filing down the collet to 5mm (from 7mm, and this was hard to keep a square collet) I ended up needing too many shims to get the clutch bell off of the clutch shoe to be able to set the end play at all so the piece that holds the thrust bearing is still better.
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Old 07-05-2007, 02:18 PM   #1513
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Has anyone tried the new 4mm chassis yet? Especially on a high grip track. If so, how did it handle and did you have to make any changes to your setup?

Anyone tried the 4mm chassis, as well as the standard chassis with the Multi-flex engine mount? I'd be interested to know the differences between each type of *stiff* chassis setup as well.
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Old 07-05-2007, 02:45 PM   #1514
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Has anyone tried the new 4mm chassis yet? Especially on a high grip track. If so, how did it handle and did you have to make any changes to your setup?

Anyone tried the 4mm chassis, as well as the standard chassis with the Multi-flex engine mount? I'd be interested to know the differences between each type of *stiff* chassis setup as well.
Barry ran the 4mm chassis @ the 301 race. You might ask him what he thought about it.
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Old 07-05-2007, 08:54 PM   #1515
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I finally got time to paint a new body for the NT1. I'm not a pro painter by any means, but I'm happy with it. I'm just learning to use liquid mask and an airbrush. At least I can get rid of the left overs from the previous car...Now I just need to trim the body posts, and true some tires for the weekend. I get to race Sat and Sun after almost a month off. I'm stoked for sure
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