Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

Yes lowest roll center in the front the farther the inside arms are apart, same as running the lowest setting in the bottom of the rear.

bradley70

Alright have a clutch or 2 speed issue I need some guidance on. Car is really bogging out of the corners and also when it shifts into second gear. I have tried 3 different clutch springs stock brand new kyosho spring, orion and MSR all of which are brand new. (this has happened with 2 seperate motors Novarossi Murnan modified and JP Eagle so horsepower or lack there of should not be an issue) Has anyone had this problem before or am I overlooking something? Any suggestions or input would greatly be appreciated. Clutch shoe, belts etc? Totally lost on this one.

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Might not be getting full throttle. Check your throttle endpoints on your radio. I had a very silmilar problem with my 1/8 scale. Drove me crazy for a while.

bradley70

Already checked that more then once!! I'm getting full throttle for sure just boggs out of the corner and also when shifting into 2nd. Thanks though

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

-Like they said... check for full throttle...
-Check your clutch gap to be at atleast .5mm for Novarossi
-Try using the orion spring, and tighten the nut until you see two threads and start from there...
-Is it shifting too soon? Very early shifting can lead to bogging of an engine
-Does it do it on track only or does it do it off-track also?

kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

How about the break linkage. At full or close to full throttle, your linkage might be pushing the break arm too far and engaging the calipers - causing drag break.

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

The brake arm has a mechanical stop. I know this because I have a spring to ensure that when I throttle the brake arm goes back. Maybe you can add this spring to be sure the brake arm isnt causing drag like kewdawg is suggesting.

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

The orion spring with any setting will hit as long as the shoe material isn't questionable but look at the bell, I would think if the clutch was actually slipping as much as you describe you may discolor it or have a really shiny section where the shoe meets the bell (assuming again that it's the right shoe and right bell because the taper is important)

I would hate to bring your engine tuning into question, but you seem to have ruled out a clutch or linkage problem. Is this problem instant the moment you put the car on the track from a cold start or does it come in after a few minutes? Do you hear the engine free rev and then engage or does it just engage and bog off, if so how much smoke?

bradley70

Brian I actually do think it's a clutch problem but was just asking check/asking about any other possibilities. Engine tuning isn't a problem I have had several guys from our track with many years of tuning experience. I was running at the Mugen Cup a few weeks ago and the car was was crazy fast with mad rip out of the corners then all of a sudden it started to bog and had no rip at all. I actually thought I had lost the motor, so I put in another motor and had the same issue. Only thing is I didn't change the clutch I used the same one. So I'm guessing or assuming it's either the clutch shoe (to many heat cycles through it or the clutch bell itself). I went through the 2 speed lastnight and everything look great.

Thanks

Brad

GMartinez

iTrader: (91)

like Riketsu said check your gap by the sounds of it off to on power bog it might not have the correct gap

Perez

iTrader: (4)

hey tighten down the two speed so your stuck in first just to make sure your not immediately starting in second gear thats what it sounds like to me...

JayL

Is the info on Josh's page the correct way to set gap on the kyosho?
http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/clutch/index.php

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

Did you look at the clutch bell? it shouldn't be discolored or have a 10000 grit mirror finish on the surface that touches the shoe. My sirio bells still look dark where the shoe hits.

By the fact that you've changed your clutch spring so many times, I would think you would have come across this but you may want to ensure that the clutch nut is tight and that the flywheel isn't rubbing the engine case or slipping on the collet.

The "right" way to set clutch gap can be confusing described by anybody. I learned the way I use and feel it is the easiest.

Put the inner bearing in, no shims, let the clutch bell rest against the shoe. Install shims until the bell just barely drags on the shoe when you spin it and I consider this 0.1mm of clutch gap, then add 0.4 and you will have something close to 0.5mm as measured by anybody elses standards. Be sure to set endplay to the least possible to preserve thurst bearing assemblys

Team-RTR

hey guys,

just starting to get back into nitro racing after a 2 year break and was just wondering if there is a conversion kit available to convert my RRR ti a RRR evo? if not is this possible with the purchase of seperate parts or is it not worth it??

thanks

Ramiel

Hi
Can someone tell me what settings are you using with the Sirio Power Clutch (Clutch spring, clutch gap, end-play)?
I'm going to use it with a brand new Sirio Evo 3 STI MM.
Somebody knows the difference between the green (stock) shoe and the yellow shoe?
Cheers