No problem. Let me know if it helps any. I personally don't think my setup works with the 15* carriers though.. It loses to much steering.. just FYI.

A problem that we have ran across with this problem is:
the wrong taper on the collet.
And brass collets do wear out.
If it ever spins, then you can have the problems you are describing.

the losi uses a 10 degree tapered collet. it is 6 mm long (.236)
I am not sure what the tekno collet is but odds are that they used the same
collet set up as the flywheels are similar.
A collet should extend out of the tapered hole about 1.5 mm.
If it fits down flush to the back of the flywheel then it is not the correct collet.
next:
mugen uses a 7 degree tapered collet and is about 7 mm long.
These will not interchange.
All engine suppliers use the same basic length of crank shaft from
the end of the crank to the bearing about 29.5 mm (1.261)
this is what we who make aftermarket flywheels systems use as a
standard for our products.
So, you can basicially use about any clutch system out there, but make
sure you have all the correct components for that clutch.
as far as clutch bell go, most will interchange with the after market
flywheel kits to my knowledge.
A proper clutch set should be:
when everything is assembled the outer bearing should be at the end of
the crank shaft + or - about .1 mm.
If you are a bit shy you can use a 4.9 x 3.01 shims (ofna part no. 10210)
I think,on between the bearing and
the clutch bell. this will keep the bearing off the race of the bearing. and allow
the proper play clutch bell.
if you continue to have problems
pm me and I will try to help.
hope this helps

GUYS,
We have taken the feedback from our test drivers and we think we
have came up with a very durable model.
We have made some major changes to the original design.
We have cut the spur gear clearance thru the chassis. this allows us to
lower the cg of the center diff by 2mm.
We have also changed the motor area and deleted the rear motor shift
option.
We have also adopted a new quick change 3 pc. motor mount and
have deleted the option of using the stock motor mount.
We did this because of the conflict of the slots for the 2 different types
of motor mounts.
This style of motor mount offers a great deal of support and helps take out
the flex in this area.
We have also lowered the cg of the motor mount by 1.5 mm.

this should solve the problem of selection of bump boxes.
by doing these changes we believe that this will greatly help in solving
the broken spur gear problems.
let me know what you guys think of the new changes.

Thanks!!! I'll check the collet fit out. I didn't know the above. They are sending me a new collet. Hopefully, the new one fits like you state above.

Our clutch systems work very well and have steel tapered collet
Which is what I prefer
they are also the most adjustable clutch system in in the world
might want to check them out

This is a great clutch I use it on my NT48. Highly recommend.

I also use Mitch's clutches, love them and last forever and don't need a ton of attention and work with stock bell. Get some TKO clutch bearings and you've got an indestructible clutch.

Are you running the stock +1.5 rear plate or the LRC? Also are you running no washers on the ackerman/Bump Steer?

Lol good one, there already ordered...

still coming with the replaceable skid plates and hardened droop stops? I would be willing to try it out!!

That is standard on all my chsssis

another problem you could have is that when a flywheel comes loose
it can sometimes enlarge the tapered hole in the flywheel and not fit
properly.

I am running the stock +1.5 rear plate. I don't like the LRC on the truggy.

No washers on the bump steer.

M2cracing : HUGE HOME RUN WITH THE PURPOSE BUILT SINGLE MOUNTED CHASSIS.

How do i get my hands on one, take my money, the team M2C has guided Mitch in the golden direction, i can see alot of these popping up everywhere ........