Not really sure how using an aftermarket clutch and another manufactures bell
is a design flaw??

But if your gonna run an aftermarket clutch it is possible its gonna sit closer
to the tank. So I decided to look at where mine sit.



Here is my normal setup with a FusionX (nova based) and a BuKu with a
Serpent bell its about 3.5-4mm off the tank.



Here is my spare Picco with the stock clutch and a Serpent bell its about 6mm
off but the screw sticks out the center about a 1mm so its closer to 5mm for
total clearance.



And the Picco with a stock clutch and bell, about 4.5mm of clearance.

All of these are with the motor in the forward position.

At this point it looks like you have an issue with your shimming.

Hi and thanks for the detailed reply with photos. This is pretty re-assuring. Yea I guessed the stock clutch would be better so im going to try that. Honestly I had an almost new werks clutch laying around form my mugen days and since the fly wheel size is identical I deciced to try it. Its a great clutch, never had an issue. I am no where near the gap of what you show in the pix. I think the problem is the collect I am using, as its offsetting the clutch from the motor by quite a bit. Yea, pretty obvious thing but it is what it is.

well I think this is just the same lesson i've learned before but ignored: .. always try the stock stuff first before adding any "upgrades". aka if it aint broke dont fix it.

Thanks again
- Anupam

When running a flat flywheel like a Werks the you should only need maybe .5 to
maybe 1mm of shims between the collet and front bearing. Ideally you only want
it spaced out enough to keep it from rubbing the block.

With a Serpent or Tekno bell it's gonna leave the Crank about 2mm short of
coming out of the end bearing like most standard clutches. That's why the
stepped washer is included with the kit.

To help with shimming the step washer pick up a pack of these.

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/kyosho-...kyo96641/p3868

If you need me to break down a clutch and show you the shimming let me
know.

1st collet - Flywheel slipped off twice. Replaced it.
2nd collet - Appeared to be slipping. Dremel the slit to 1-1.5mm as recommended by Tekno and reinstalled. Still something going on - still sounds like it is slipping. Locked camshaft thru backplate. Couldn't turn flywheel by hand or by applying slight pressure with pliers. After this Sat, tried this again. Applied a lot of pressure with pliers on flywheel. It wouldn't budge. I don't see any signs of slippage. Anyway, replaced collet and flywheel. Again, dremeled the collet slit to 1-1.5mm. Will see what happens. This is my third collet. I have one more collet left (I already dremeled it). I wish I could just buy the collet by itself. Anyway, if this 3rd collet and 2nd flywheel doesn't work, I'm pretty much out of ideas.

JsK I'm definitely not using the stepped washer and Im going to test it with that this weekend. Makes sense to use it. I have another backup engine (the same brand) that I will be running the box stock clutch setup and Im going to test both setups back to back.

Werks actually suggests not using any washers against the engine, but I do have one (1mm) washer in there. I think my biggest problem is the collet im using, I noticed my flywheel is almost 2mm offset from the motor which is a lot of gap. So clearly I need to use a different collet that allows for a smaller gap or mod the existing one.

Finally, as far as clutch brearing, Ryan suggested using the TKO bearings as they seem to last for ever. So I'll be trying that too.

JSK thanks for your offer on doing a breakdown of the clutch. If I continue to have issue I may take you up on that. Heck I think a clutch build video would be very useful anyway for the Tekno community.

Hi guys, I've got another question regarding my new NT48. Just got about one weekend with it on the track. I've got ryan lutz Battle of the Sickest setup on it and im having a really tough time getting the car to square up on power, the rear in steps out very badly. Since you guys have more experience than I do with this car, I'd like to ask what the car responds to the best in terms of rear grip.

starting from this setup:
http://lutzinator.com/wp-content/plu...2011-16-14.pdf

Running exactly his setup with TWO exceptions. I am running the motor in the rear position to try to calm the car down, and I am using TKR5013C LRC rear toe block. http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5013c...d-ebnbetntsct/

ps: I did try the box stock setup but I diddnt like it as much as Ryan's setup. Seemed a lot looser with the box setup even though its meant for looser conditions. Which is really weird.

Track conditions starts off in the day as very dusty and loose, and then grip comes up toward the evening to what I'd consider medium bite.

what would you modify to get more rear grip....

1. The most important one for me is: For more rear grip does the car seem to want thicker fluids or lighter fluids? I know on my old Mugen truggy the thicker diffs seemed to produce more traction, where the lighter diffs tended to make the car more nimble and steer more esp. off power. How does the Tekno react?

2. Higher roll center (using lower holls on the shock tower)

3. More droop in the front (let arms hang down lower)

4. Running even more rear toe-in.


I suppose all of these will work but Im wondering what the car responds to the most and hence what I should try first?. I know different cars respond more strongly to different adjustments.

Only use enough shims to keep the flywheel off the block, after that shim the
bell just far enough off the flywheel so it won't tweak and stop the flywheel
also pay attention to where your shoes are going to run in the bell, ideally you
would like the shoes to run in the center of the bell but it does not always
work out that way. After that you Should need the step washer and
maybe some of the kyosho shims on the end. This should keep the whole
assembly as short as possible.

Well the first thing I always do when a setup just doesn't seem to work is pull
the shocks off the offending end and start looking for problems. If your arms
move free and nothing is binding pull the boots and springs off the shocks and
check to make sure you don't have a bent shock shaft.

So if your car checks out its time to look at your tires. Are you on the same
tire as the fast guys? Sometimes just one step either way in compound can
make a big difference.

So if the car checks out and your on the right tires then there are a lot of
things you can do depending on where the car is loose.

As far as Ryan's setup being looser a lot of that has to do with how he drives,
any setup is just a base to start with.

With the setup I would try the following.

Hubs to inner holes. You will want try a slightly longer wheel base.
Try it short first and then move it out a little at a time(makes the transition from side
to forward bite smoother)

More rear toe in.

If that does not get you where you want to be you can raise the inner link
on the tower back to 1.

Move the lower rear shock mount back to the middle hole.

JSK has made great suggestions. Also recommend changing to front motor. More rear wight will make the rear of the vehicle swing like a pendulum around corners.

Ok here is a picture of the stock body on my events truggy and the new proline NT48 enforcer body on my club racer, thought i would see how the proline trifecta wings look too.

Here is some pictures of the Proline NT48 enforcer body from different angles including the glow driver access, the way i have done it you can start the truggy with the driver on a slight angle, to gain straight on access you need to remove up over onto the roof which will cut out support, im going to test it on the weekend and see what the down force is like and to see how strong it is, so far mounted i think it will reduce some of the flex in the truggy with the thicker firmer design.











Now i know the stock body looks so much better, looks faster, looks sleek but im sick of the stock bodies breaking and tearing due to lifting the sides to tune during race days, they teat at the base of the front window on the lsn side due to lifting.

It looks good.. Have you had a chance to run it? I'm wondering how it handles and how the airflow is over the motor?

Are most sticking with the 13 tooth clutch bell?

Give this setup a try. It is very balanced.

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...sher_Basic.pdf

guys thanks so much for all the setup help. Im currently looking at Lutz setup and Michael Asher's setups and comparing those two setups. I like some of the changes in the rear on Michaels truck so I may work in some of those changes and see how it feels. Particularly running a little less rear antisquat and leaning the shocks down more. That may tame down the back. Thanks again for all the help !