Absolutely.

A very big yes on that. That is one reason you can go thru carbon clutches
so fast also.
All aluminum shoes can decrease the motor temps by 15 to 20 degrees.
that means you can lean out the motor more and get better run times.

How hot is hot and how old is that motor ?

280 to 300. 1.75 gal thru it. 1st gal in parking lot for breakin and getting a feel for nitro. Never got above 260. Temps were an issue along with tuning and in too low of a gear sound. Anyway, just wanted to know if temps were also a symptom of slipping clutch. Hopefully, that will go away today. Cleaned everything last nite. Going to mate bell and shoes on green springs today. Afterwards, I'm going to set up a softer clutch, 2-0.9, 2-1.0 or 4-1.0 springs. Hopefully, I can test that out later this week. I have an electric trigger finger so I fig my clutch needs to be softer until I develop that nitro trigger.

Hi guys . I love my new nitro Truggy a lot better then the Kyosho . My question I have for all you tekno guys . What air filters are u running in your cars . I hate that tekno only has a 3 pack of pre oiled filters for 12$. Is there other brands out there like lucky 7 or protec filters that would fit on the filter hoseing .


Thanks

Protek unoiled filters for Ofna/Hobao fits nice
But it seems that many owners made a switch to Losi/mugen filters along with filter holder and hose.

Well after a full race day on the proline enforcer body on the weekend i can say that it pretty much bullet proof, strong in all the right places and the engine being under the roof line did not effect temps much at all, plenty of air getting in under there, starting the car was also no problem with the little bit of angle required with out cutting into the roof line of the shell as posted a few pages back with my photos.

Permormance wise the stock body wins all day long, with the proline body it catches air under it of the jumps so some set up changes to jump nose down seemed to fix the problem but there is not the down force into the corners like with the stock body either, I guess taking a Tessmann body and throwing a NT48 header card on it may seem like good bussiness to proline but it would have been good to see them shorten the roof line to fit the truggy, norrowed it to touch the side gaurds too.

If your after a body that will last then the proline is for you as long as your happy being a second slower a lap

How are they attaching the filter holder? Any pics?

I have a shaft lock tool that goes thru the backplate. Can I break anything by really cranking down on the flywheel locknut?

I would not exagerate.. you could eventualy crack the engine block

Thanks for the update. That is exactly what I figured by looking at it.

These chassis are made using 4 MM thick 7075 aircraft grade materials and clear anodized.

use of this material greatly increases the overall life of the chassis.

we have tested and tweeked these chassis to provide the racers a top notch chassis that will perform very well on all surfaces.

This model is made for the tracks with a high wear charastic like the tracks we have out West and up north and in Canada

It is important to note that these skid plates fit flush to the bottom of the chassis and will not effect the droop settings and cause you to

scrub speed on the landings.

FEATURES:

We have made the diff cutout thru which will allow you to lower the cg of the center diff by 2 mm and added material back to this area of the chassis to stiffen up this area. This should help decrease the possibility of broken spur gears due to chassis flex.

We have also reworked the motor area to and deleted the stock motor mount and replaced it with a rock solid 3 pc quick change mount design that we have using on the Mugen for years. we have also pocketed the motor mount area 1 mm deep.

this along with the Mugen mount being 1/2 mm shorter than the stock mount lowers the CG of the motor by 1.5 mm.

An added benefit of the is that now you can now use about any starter box on the market designed for 1/8 scale cars.

We have also included (2) 3mm counter sunk holes at the rear of chassis just in front of the rear diff.

these are for our optional weight kit to increase rear end traction on looser tracks.

We have adopted this model so that if you wish you can cut off the front bumper to help the vehicle not to get upset on landings
and increase ground clearance.

front and rear steel replaceable skid plate.
It is advised you replace the skid plate when the edge of the skid plate wears down to 1 mm.
This will make the chassis last much longer.
hardened droop stops to prevent chassis wear and droop changes.

INCLUDED IN KIT:

skid plates:

m2c 6501 (front and rear skid plate)

m2c 6502 (front rear skid plate)

motor mount: m2c 5230

OPTIONAL PARTS:

optional brass weights for rear of chassis m2c 5298

m2c 5231 top rails for quick change motor mount.

I don't have any, but dig thru this and NB threads, there are many owners posted pics with this swap

Ours will be on the way tomorrow

that seems like a well thought out chassis M2C. dont race truggy atm but if I did, i'be all over it. makes me want the NT48 that much more