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Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13254883)
Tekno, do you have any plans about making your own tools? Steel quality you're using in NB48 for camber links seems very good, and i think something like hex tips (std. and ball end) with handle for 1/4" drill bit and with big Tekno logo on it gonna be very useful, as well as 4mm turnbuckle.
We can confirm that we will be releasing a turnbuckle wrench in a few weeks. It will have a 4mm end (all cars) and a 5mm end (truggy camber) so it will work with all of our cars. We have a few we've been using/testing and we think it will be the best wrench out there when it's available. It's in production now, just patiently waiting... |
Originally Posted by teknorc
(Post 13257699)
Always thinking about it...
We can confirm that we will be releasing a turnbuckle wrench in a few weeks. It will have a 4mm end (all cars) and a 5mm end (truggy camber) so it will work with all of our cars. We have a few we've been using/testing and we think it will be the best wrench out there when it's available. It's in production now, just patiently waiting... |
Originally Posted by Casketman
(Post 13257723)
Awesome!
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For people that have used the FTW nightfox 00033 body, does the cut line for the motor suit the nb48 in rear motor configuration?
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Is it ok to replace M4x10mm screws secureing rear braces to diff housing with longer ones - 14mm? I've read about issues with rear braces on EB48 vehicle, and one of the solutions mentioned was to replace 'em with longer version. Brace itself has thickness about 5mm where it lays on top of diff case, that gives only 5mm thread into housing, it's enough or not?
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Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13258472)
Is it ok to replace M4x10mm screws secureing rear braces to diff housing with longer ones - 14mm? I've read about issues with rear braces on EB48 vehicle, and one of the solutions mentioned was to replace 'em with longer version. Brace itself has thickness about 5mm where it lays on top of diff case, that gives only 5mm thread into housing, it's enough or not?
but yeh 15mm wont hurt :nod: |
Originally Posted by vandalzzz
(Post 13258472)
Is it ok to replace M4x10mm screws secureing rear braces to diff housing with longer ones - 14mm? I've read about issues with rear braces on EB48 vehicle, and one of the solutions mentioned was to replace 'em with longer version. Brace itself has thickness about 5mm where it lays on top of diff case, that gives only 5mm thread into housing, it's enough or not?
broken so far. Its breaks when the chassis gets back bowed. Either slamming down on the wing of an Ebuggy (more weight and less support than the Nitro) or by casing a jump HARD with a nitro or e car. Trust me you gotta hit really hard to do it. |
what a service
when I see the post for the link to the new tanks I ordered one and paid for it Friday, and then yesterday I got home from my work and the tank was sitting there,,,,,, what a service cant believe how quick that was
anyway I had to open it up and have a look,,,,, and I cant wait to get this in very very nice looking in thicker plastic which is going to be hard to see though, but id sooner have that then the tank breaking, and it was ready to put straight in to the buggy as the grommets was already inserted good job TEKNO RC way to go keep up the good work |
Originally Posted by andyhitman
(Post 13261712)
when I see the post for the link to the new tanks I ordered one and paid for it Friday, and then yesterday I got home from my work and the tank was sitting there,,,,,, what a service cant believe how quick that was
anyway I had to open it up and have a look,,,,, and I cant wait to get this in very very nice looking in thicker plastic which is going to be hard to see though, but id sooner have that then the tank breaking, and it was ready to put straight in to the buggy as the grommets was already inserted good job TEKNO RC way to go keep up the good work These will make this buggy bullit proof now and yes the tanks look great. Awesome work there from the factory support again. This is what I call customer service :D and I am glad to be apart of it. |
Few days ago there was a discussion about camber links' building methods. Here is mine:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...515_004747.jpg Take any ball link pliers with same rounded hole for something (really have no idea what its supposed to do), put hex part of metal turnbuckle into this hole and begin to prethread plastic end (with ball installed) with your hand. Also i apply some amount of grease onto turnbuckle' threaded part. After making some (2-3) full turns it's ok to insert something like short hex wrench or screwdriver tip into ball and continue. After classic method (fix plastic part and dig into with metal) its night and day difference. |
Originally Posted by JsK
(Post 13261409)
Yes you can use the 14mm screws. The rear diff case is the only thing I have
broken so far. Its breaks when the chassis gets back bowed. Either slamming down on the wing of an Ebuggy (more weight and less support than the Nitro) or by casing a jump HARD with a nitro or e car. Trust me you gotta hit really hard to do it. |
I would suggest you stay with the 10mm one like the manual says, be sure you don’t over tight it.
I broke my gear box when I put 15mm on it, I’m guessing more thread also weakens the gear box. Another suggestion, I put 1mm shim below the chassis brace (on the side of the gear box), I noticed chassis brace bends a little bit when you tight the screw if you don't use the shim. |
All set for the Midwest Nitro Series round 1 at RJD raceway in Lincoln,IL
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...63746951_n.jpg |
Originally Posted by Casketman
(Post 13265471)
All set for the Midwest Nitro Series round 1 at RJD raceway in Lincoln,IL
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...63746951_n.jpg |
Originally Posted by Casketman
(Post 13265471)
All set for the Midwest Nitro Series round 1 at RJD raceway in Lincoln,IL
https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/...63746951_n.jpg Tekno T.O.M/RTM will be in the house :) |
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