I was just wondering how does this company support veterans. Because I am a veteran and if they are legit, I'm sold on this company. That alone will make me change brands without question.

http://www.teknorc.com/military-discount/

Thanks!

Thanks for some insight!mine will arrive Friday.any hop up parts I should consider?

All I have to say is WoW!!!!! I guess I will have to break out the old credit card. This might get ugly updating the whole fleet...:D

I got the Ti-Ni coated shock shafts, would recommend.
Also have the aluminum driveshafts and diff pins, not necessary, but shaves about 15 grams if you're counting

Sounds good.thanks

I don't believe there is much in choices for aftermarket stuff for the car. Then again,it doesn't need it unless you're just looking to add bling to the car.

Agreed. Spend your money on some obvious spares (shock covers, diff/shock orings/parts, clutch bell/shoes, air filters, etc) and call it a day.

To be honest you will find a LOT of people that are just plain a fan of the brand. After you get one (which you did), you just get it and now you understand :D I think you will be very happy with a EB48/NB48. I run both.


To add to this, a post I wrote up on another forum that is also applicable here to anyone possibly weighing the pros/cons of different brands. I'm a "flashlight boy" (don't hate you silly stinky nitro boys hehehe) not having run nitro seriously since a NTC3 touring car probably over 10 years ago. I was really worried about the amount of time I would spend cleaning this when my EB48 and SCT410 are a breeze... What I wrote in the other forum:




Let's be honest, nitro is smelly and dirty. I really have to give it to Tekno though, they really have things figured out.

30 seconds in, motor, pipe, air filter is out (6 screws). Add 60-120 seconds to also spray down the pipe/motor:
http://mad-skillz.com/rc/06.09.2014-1.jpg

Add another 60 seconds and a half dozen screws, the entire electronic tray is off. Add another 60 seconds for hand wiping that down:
http://mad-skillz.com/rc/06.09.2014-2.jpg

<5% simple green, water, hand sprayer, air compressor, another 300 seconds:
http://mad-skillz.com/rc/06.09.2014-3.jpg

Under 10 minutes.... beat that! It actually takes me longer to do my electric because of the ESC/motor. They really put a lot of thought into things during design.

Now I see a single brace in the back. I run a single now but I did have both in back. 2 races after I took the small brace off,I bent the center rear drive shaft right at the rear of the engine mount.
I bring this up wonder if anyone did any serious testing about using both braces or just one?
I plan to put the short brace back in for this weekend.

[QUOTe3111;13323819]Thanks for some insight!mine will arrive Friday.any hop up parts I should consider?[/QUOTE]

Only hopup I bought was the tekno aluminum steering servo horn.

no issues at all with only running the longer rear brace thats all i run

never bent a drive shaft or even close there still perfectly straight

I doubt the small brace will stop a driveshaft bending. In fact I know it won't, as I ran both and still bent mine. If it crashes in a certain way, it's gonna bend.

I just run both because I like a stiff chassis, would rather the suspension do its job without the chassis interfering, just like 1:1 scale off-road, where chassis is braced like a rock.

You should cut excess amount of pipe hanger wire, otherwise you can damage your fuel tank.
And why you removed complete servo horns with assembly around them instead of disassembling links a bit?

1) Yes, checked the tank, good to go there. I bent it a bit to get it where I want it for the werks.

2) Because I have the brakes exactly where I want them and they're also filthy ;) Yes, I could marker the links, but either way you have to disassemble one of the two, so this is my preference. I square up the servo's to know exactly the location they are at when the horn is removed, clean, then put them back. Done. No concerns there other than the plastic horn **** HINT HINT TEKNO **** ;) Works well and installs back very quickly.

Thanks for sharing this method. I usually disconnect ball link from servosaver arm at the steering channel and remove brake link at thr.channel. Will try your method with thr.channel, but i doubt about so frequent removing of servo arm from st.servo, mainly because of the 1.5mm fix screw in arm, i think it will strip very fast.
Also i have a question about Simple green. I don't have anything named like that in local shops. What is it? Will automotive universal plastic cleaner fit for this? Or maybe glass cleaner? And what about bearings, don't you afraid about water+cleaner could penetrate them?