New 6x1.5 Shock pistons in stock now! Judging by the Piston Chart, theres a 6x1.6 on the way also!

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr6063-...-10-6mm%c2%b2/

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con.../TKR6050s1.jpg

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...stonChart2.jpg

New front arms as well. Now recessed so the spring cup can have clearance when you lay the shocks down.

http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr5036b...ed-xtra-tough/

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...KR5036B_2s.jpg

its all direct fit, the guide just makes the rotor more straight, i used a spring instead of a fuel tubing as seen on the pics, its more consistent, coz the tubing gets softer when its hot, the spring came from a D8

Thats great, maybe I will try that out. And yea the spring is a good idea cus the fuel tubing is inconsistent gets deformed .

What adventage instead of stock piston??

Those are from the 7 series Kyoshos, the 9s are vented and cross drilled. Not sure if they're the same size or not.

Kit build is 8x1.3, and these have a bit more pack to them.

Both work, the 7 series are 29mm, the 9's are 30mm, stock tekno's are 28mm, ive run a 30mm before, but has to have 15t bell on a rear motor config, or else it will rotor hits the bell

Theoretically, these should have _less_ pack than the 8.3 piston. The 6.5 config will feel the same on the bench, but on the track it will have more traction and be more consistent (at least in our testing).

What I think is going on is that the 8.3 have too much pack or don't pack at the right time. The 6.5's seem to settle better.

One important note is that the 6.5 pistons work best when you move the shocks to the outer hole in the arm. This increases the piston speed and alters when the piston packs.

Try 450-500 in front and 350-400 as a starting point. The stock pink F and red R springs seem to work well as a starting point.

Click the link to see some pics and setup sheets from Bring the Heat a week ago. Both cars were great!

Bring the Heat 2014

[QUOTE=teknorc;13535720]Theoretically, these should have _less_ pack than the 8.3 piston. The 6.5 config will feel the same on the bench, but on the track it will have more traction and be more consistent (at least in our testing).

What I think is going on is that the 8.3 have too much pack or don't pack at the right time. The 6.5's seem to settle better.

One important note is that the 6.5 pistons work best when you move the shocks to the outer hole in the arm. This increases the piston speed and alters when the piston packs.

Try 450-500 in front and 350-400 as a starting point. The stock pink F and red R springs seem to work well as a starting point.[/QUOTE

Been running Mo's setup lately, but my track has been extremely rough, bumpy and dry. The car skips around and pops up a little more than I think it should. Would the 6x1.5 pistons be better for this condition?
I would also like to know how on Dannys setup, he is running 106mm front droop? I have to lengthen the shaft by unscrewing the shock eyelet from the shaft a few turns to achieve the 106. I like the extra droop. It seems to help in the rough areas of the track, but I've actually broke 2 shafts off now, flush with the eyelet by doing this.

I'm running 106mm and the droop screws have a few more mm in them. What is your shock placement?

[QUOTE=wallride14;13536607]I run on a really rough track and I can tell you the 6x1.5 setup made a big difference in how comfortable I was with the buggy right away. This setup is in my opinion perfect, it handles the rough far better than the 8x1.3 pistons and I think lands much better also. My testing was with the E-buggy this weekend but the same will apply with nitro. I think with the piston design the stock 8x1.3 are probably good on a fast smooth type track but for rough or a track where more traction is needed and with big jumps the 6x1.5 works with all of those conditions. I am actually curious what surface they wont work better on. As for droop in rough I like my shock ends screwed all the way on till flush at top of threads and then I look at max droop then set my droop screws so both sides are even with at least -1mm from full droop so the shocks dont have so much stress when pulled on in a crash. As for shock mounting holes on the arm I liked the rear in outside hole and front in middle hole and front oil 37.5 losi and rear oil 30 losi.

[QUOTE=wallride14;13536607]would be worth giving them a try. I started with the 6h 1.5 pistons but car felt too bouncy after a 20 minute run and bottomed out too much. lap time wise I kept getting slower the longer I ran. HOWEVER... for some they will probably like them better, and for some, they will not. but its awesome to have a another tuning option!
longer droop IMO is what should be next on the horizon, would be nice to be able to get 0 on the blocks for the front.

Is there anything better than this?? A stock bumper may be too weak.

WOW!!! is that from concrete?