I used M2s at Round 4 of the JBRL at Heritage and at Revelation a week ago because it was quite toasty. They work great in the hotter temperatures. My qual at Heritage was very wet and it was still fairly cool (80°) and they were terrible but came in perfect by the main. Ran an entire day of practice on them at Revelation after JBRL. They probably had about 30% tread left at that point which I made short work of on the asphalt breaking in the engine. I ran the Impacts at Round 5 of the JBRL at Proline (is that wrong :lol: ).

Oh, wanted to mention that the fuel tubing on the brake linkage worked quite well. I also dropped expo to 60 and now it feels pretty good. I have to reduce the EPA bit more but it's a huge improvement over what I had. Thanks for the tip.

For those looking for clutch bearings for the Tekno as an alternative to the stock bearings, Advantage Racing Products now has both the front (5x11x5) and rear (5x13x4) in stock on their website: www.advantageracingproducts.com. Right now the front bearing is only available in metal shield, but the rubber shield front bearings should be available late September. I have been using their bearings throughout my cars for several years and never had any issues and they always performed great!

I just pulled the trigger on this kit. I will be testing it against my D812 and Mp9. The question I have is in Mo's setup, is he running the complete losi clutch? The reason I ask is bc I trying to make an order though amain and I see the prebuilt clutch and I see where you could by the fly wheel and shoes separate. Also does the fly wheel nut comes with either?

Just so everyone knows, i was simply stating my experience with the X compound, not what any charts or descriptions say. And yes my track (MBRC) is very tire friendly, normally mid 80s on race days in summer, very fast and is predominantly dry unless they just watered and even then the X3 worked great but I am not on Mo's experience level where he can probably notice a smaller difference like that between the X3 and M3. I do know they last longer and thats good enough for me!

a lot of time someones experience means more than any chart. and personal experience is key anyway!. I wasn't referring to purpose or anything like that. I was also just stating what I felt from track to track.
I wasn't too familiar with the X compound tires but love the Proline stuff. I went to a race in SC at the pit. TONS of fast pro drivers there and a different format where every race was a main (Reedy style) rather than quals. I had no experience on that type of dirt or heat for that matter. ProLine driver Brandon Melton told me m3 blockades for 1st round then X4 for next 2 rounds then back to m3 for last round when moisture comes up. My car was awesome enough to take the win and stayed consistant the entire day. I have pretty much stayed on that theory since and it has worked. I also got to test some back to back stuff and the I personally didn't feel the X compound was as good in the wet tracks as the m4 or m3.

Oh yea Mo I wasn't necessarily directing that reply to you or anyone, just wanted to make sure everyone knew it was just my opinion haha but I actually think the idea of M to X back to M makes a ton of sense actually and going to try that next time out. I dont know if I've ever tried the X in wet conditions, even when watering MBRC, Hobby Hut, and even more so TNL are never really "wet"

I have ran the X3 compound on both dry and watered tracks and for me the compound has worked in both conditions very well. I have not done a back-to-back comparison between X3 and M3 under the same conditions though.

X compounds for me now. For me, M compounds do grip a little better than X compounds. But X tires last a lot longer. At $50-60 for a set of tires. I am willing to sacrifice a little grip.

exactly my thoughts, theyve worked great for me in every condition i have run them and they last much longer so my $ is on X everytime I have the option, in fact proline just released X compound truggy tires which is awesome!

In truggy???!!! Say whaaaaaaaat?!!!

Excellent, I'll have to try some out. Got worked like a dog today so didnt do anything with the buggy and I have some errands to run so I wont be able to hit the track for more testing either; poor me.

About clutch bearings: i've found that proper shimming AND bearing mainterance are keys to longer bearing life. I'm using ProTek clutch bearings now, both inner and outer, and have around 1.5 liters on each set, with reoiling them every 0.5L. I'm using Avid oil for this, works fine.

Which "clutch" specific Proteks did you find for the 5x11x4? I only found one bearing that size that they offer; a metal shielded "speed." Not that I think there is a whole hell of a lot of difference between the various labels on bearings.

Outside of the first set of Proteks that let go really quick (and I've been shimming clutches for at least 15 years now), the rest have lasted fairly well (1/2 gallon). The shields on the last set came loose but they didnt completely fail. I generally dont wait this long to check them and certainly replace them more often on race days.

I started the season using Protek bearings but even with proper shimming they didn't last nearly as long as TKO bearings especially when using the thrust washers. TKO bearings are a great investment, I use the BUKU now but when i ran the losi style clutch I used the RR hardened bells, TKO bearings w thrust washers, and Dynamite Max life shoes and my clutch was much less maintenance. the BUKU is great for this too, shoes last forever but expensive

whew you guys are getting some use out of that dollar!:D
when I use the 1 dollar protek or avid metal shield bearings I change them before every start of the day and then again before every main.
when I use the TKO bearings like I do now since I am using serpent bells that accept the 5x10x4 TKO bearing, I use them for a gallon but re-oil them before every start of the day and again before every main. I have unfortunately lost a few races due to a dollar bearing and refuse to let that happen again.