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Old 01-08-2014, 11:00 AM
  #3466  
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sorry i was tryign to quote Nick's set up. Im looking for a set up for an outside semi-rough dirt track. Vertigo in Alvin Texas to be exact. Smiley if you're out there please chime in. I just copped the D812 Nitro version.
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Old 01-08-2014, 01:14 PM
  #3467  
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Originally Posted by adrictan
What's the recommended oil for using the Red?
Originally Posted by Maxxed-out
Blue - Start at 60/50 cold weather try 55/45
Reds - Start at 70/60 cold weather try 60/50
I believe the V-Port range of CSi pistons (which are the successor to the v2's) calls for much lower oil wts...35/25 iirc.
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Old 01-08-2014, 06:39 PM
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A friend of mine has a d8 and is having trouble with the pin coming out of the cvd. Can anyone give me advice for this. I read before some hot bodies guys use Kyosho centre shafts but I think that was for the d812? Any advice would be great.
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Old 01-08-2014, 07:15 PM
  #3469  
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Use red loctight, make sure set screw is on the flat side, use heat shrink around the pin to keep it in, all else fails buy the tekno kits
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:07 PM
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Thanks Ryan.
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:36 AM
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No problem
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:51 AM
  #3472  
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Is there any other setup sheets out besides ty t I know it probably don't get any better than his just wanting to look at others and compare?
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:29 AM
  #3473  
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Originally Posted by jrk078
Is there any other setup sheets out besides ty t I know it probably don't get any better than his just wanting to look at others and compare?
You can copy anyone's setup and they may say it works but that doesn't mean it's going to work for you. You need to start with a basic setup which may be several to get the car close to what you want. Then learn basic setup procedure such as camber links, shock angles and so forth. One of the better setup guides can be found on the JQ website.
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:15 PM
  #3474  
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Originally Posted by TRiN
I believe the V-Port range of CSi pistons (which are the successor to the v2's) calls for much lower oil wts...35/25 iirc.
I was a part of the testing done before the V-ports were released and have been running them ever since... Trust me
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Old 01-10-2014, 06:16 AM
  #3475  
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Originally Posted by artis1
sorry i was tryign to quote Nick's set up. Im looking for a set up for an outside semi-rough dirt track. Vertigo in Alvin Texas to be exact. Smiley if you're out there please chime in. I just copped the D812 Nitro version.
Hey Shawn- I only do minor changes from Mikes to Ultimate. Add 1 more mm of shock length, Raise Ride Height to 28/29.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
Nitro Buggy Setup 2014.pdf (296.8 KB, 344 views)

Last edited by "Smiley"; 01-10-2014 at 06:38 AM.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:02 PM
  #3476  
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Has any one tried the Team Losi Racing 16mm Split Shock Piston (2)
[TLR243012]?

Are they best front or rear? What oil and spring is best to run with them?

Cheers
Rusty.
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Old 01-11-2014, 03:44 PM
  #3477  
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Want to buy a d812, any one have one that want to let go pm me thanks
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Old 01-11-2014, 07:31 PM
  #3478  
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Originally Posted by rfree02
Has any one tried the Team Losi Racing 16mm Split Shock Piston (2)
[TLR243012]?

Are they best front or rear? What oil and spring is best to run with them?

Cheers
Rusty.
Originally Posted by "Smiley"
The TLR Pistons offer more pack and a more plush feel. I personally run the Split 1.2x1.3 8 Hole. On my Ebuggy, I run the Split 1.2x1.3 front and back. In Nitro, I run the 1.3 8 Hole Front/ and the Split 1.2x1.3 8 Hole Rear.
Originally Posted by "Smiley"
My standard setup. I run it everywhere with only minor changes (Ie. Orange rear springs, Camber, Shock Oil, etc). I also have been testing the TLR Split Pistons, (4 holes are 1.2 and 4 are 1.3). I have found the TLR 1.3 8 Holes to be the best piston so far.

Something I tested last weekend was running the TLR 1.3 8 Hole up front with the Splits in the rear with 40/30. They gave the rear that added bit of pack to keep it from squatting soo much under acceleration. I'll be out this weekend testing more. If you are looking for a good shock setup, Pick up a set of the 8 hole 1.3's.
Use with Smiley's latest setup...
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Old 01-11-2014, 07:35 PM
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Finished the build on my sons new d812 roller today. Kit went together great. We used the center dogbones so it took a bit of time to clearance the steering rack but all seems good now. Are the cvd rubber covers holding up ok? I love the idea if they hold together there should be much less wear on the drives. The manual doesn't describe which kingpin goes on top and on bottom but we found a video that said use the chrome one on the top so we did it that way.

Coming from a d8 then a Hara I was surprised at just how different this car is. When people post the questions about what it takes to upgrade a hara the answer is definitely don't bother. The car seems to be very bulletproof with the front a arm mount keying to the chassis as well as having the threaded kingpins to tie it all together. Big improvement from earlier models.

We are now trying to choose an engine and servos for the car or may just pull the tray and engine from his hara. Sure would be nice to drop new pieces in it so it all starts fresh. Can't wait to get it out to the track for some laps to see how it works.

Wanted to send a shout out to all and especially Nick for the helpful build hints and info. It was very helpful.
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Old 01-12-2014, 06:56 AM
  #3480  
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Originally Posted by Brian C
Finished the build on my sons new d812 roller today. Kit went together great. We used the center dogbones so it took a bit of time to clearance the steering rack but all seems good now. Are the cvd rubber covers holding up ok? I love the idea if they hold together there should be much less wear on the drives. The manual doesn't describe which kingpin goes on top and on bottom but we found a video that said use the chrome one on the top so we did it that way.

Coming from a d8 then a Hara I was surprised at just how different this car is. When people post the questions about what it takes to upgrade a hara the answer is definitely don't bother. The car seems to be very bulletproof with the front a arm mount keying to the chassis as well as having the threaded kingpins to tie it all together. Big improvement from earlier models.

We are now trying to choose an engine and servos for the car or may just pull the tray and engine from his hara. Sure would be nice to drop new pieces in it so it all starts fresh. Can't wait to get it out to the track for some laps to see how it works.

Wanted to send a shout out to all and especially Nick for the helpful build hints and info. It was very helpful.
One king-pin is longer than the other. The reason is the hub offers vertical adjustment. If the shims are on the bottom, the long pin goes on the bottom. Shims on top, long pin on top. Shims top and bottom, doesn't matter where the pin is.
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