Guillermito

I always use the long brace (front and rear) on my 6R and X7.

Best Regards.

DLF

Short front brace...but I run on a pretty rough track too.

windellmc

iTrader: (4)

The MBX7 kit does not come with the small o-rings. At least mine did not.

kgombe

iTrader: (13)

it came with 2 o-rings for each diff if i rem correctly

BradS

iTrader: (8)

I've tried both and really didn't notice any difference. I think I left the long one on. Try both back to back on your track with no other changes.

jnorwood_losi

iTrader: (10)

When searching for clutch bells I see standard and narrow, which is correct for the stock Mugen clutch?
Thanks

Hars

iTrader: (5)

E0707 - 13t
E0708 - 14t

Hars

iTrader: (5)

My white updated tank was doing this. Really frustrating..

I ended up swapping the lid from the clear(ish) tank to fix the leak. I havent pulled apart the car yet from my previous race meet but I will check it again.

mr240

iTrader: (61)

If the seal is the same size as the 6. Then use a old bearing seal from the wheel hub to get more squish from the seal.

jnorwood_losi

iTrader: (10)

Thanks but I was looking at other brand bells (ofna hoboa ect..) and they all have either a standard or narrow option, I am guessing its the standard though

jnorwood_losi

iTrader: (10)

Also I just ordered the M2C front weight kits (for the pillow ball assembly) and their directions say use a little blue threadlock when putting them in, but they screw into plastic??!! Loctite and plastic dont mix, it eats plastic

ugottorc

iTrader: (8)

Anyone tried a 14t clutch bell with the stock clutch? Is it to tall?

ddick

You can mount the wing in different positions.

Centered or with offset.

Has anyone tried this ? What is the difference ?

Does it really influence the car ?

Sideshow Bob

not true imo, the difference is very noticeable. chad bradley also explained it earlier in the thread..think page 123 ish. the short brace numbs the steering somewhat. i know they say short brace better for bumps due to more flex but I personally never use the short brace no matter what the track looks like...my car always feels understeery with it.
for myself, the car has so much rear grip already, inducing understeer like this makes it very pushy everywhere, especially corner entry. untill i got the new black springs i've been looking for ways to get even more front grip while at the same time keeping all the rear grip on there...ie not taking off toe and shortening links etc. the theoretical result would be more grip overall...and honeslty it has worked for me.
Responsive when i need it and still has loads of rear. also, someone mentioned earlier that 5-5-2 was easier to drive, but 7-7-3 is faster if you can hold on. def true. i know the pro's setups should be taken with a grain of salt, but go get all of Batlle's recent setups and all of Martins recent setups and look for the generic things and try to understand them in context...they are always the same in alot of places on the car. . i personally tried it and it worked for me and it wasnt too different from what i used to run, just enough to make it feel even better for my driving style.

on a different note, if people are really struggling for rear on power grip even with 5-5-2, ive suggested to a few friends to try a 14T cluthbell if you have an angry motor lol. the 4BTT's for instance have stupid bottom and the 14 bell i initially ran to help with some speed down the straight. But i liked the way it just took that edgyness off when you are hard on the throttle out of a corner and even when letting go into a corner. the transition if i call call it that is real smooth.

Sideshow Bob

im using an Ultimate racing 13 and14T bells..pretty much generic vented style ones...and if you use it with the mugen clutch and flywheel you have to add some shims since they arent as tall as the mugen bells. i ended up putting a fat shim behind the flywheel en then just shimmed normaly between the inner and outer bearing of the clutch as usual.