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Old 05-14-2013, 12:35 PM
  #4366  
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Originally Posted by morgoth
It was with a bottle. I'll do some pitstops for myself the next time I'm going to practice and try different methods.

I have my fuel line like that. With an exhaust cooler in the middle.

The first time it died at the end of the pitlane. He overfilled my tank and some fuel spilled.
The second time I could see it clear because there was so much smoke in the tank. But this time he didn't spill any fuel. I was a little angry from the first and I WOT'ed very aggressive after the refuel. The engine didn't rev when it did that. It died immediately.
Lean the bottom
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:37 PM
  #4367  
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Originally Posted by masher81
I just started to build my MBX7. I have the front end mostly together. I notice that the front diff is very noisy. It also does not feel very smooth. I tried with a spacer and without but no change. Could I have done something wrong? Or is this just how Mugen is?
Run a few tanks and it should smooth out. If not, re-shim and run a tank then check again.
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:42 PM
  #4368  
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Originally Posted by Maxxed-out
Run a few tanks and it should smooth out. If not, re-shim and run a tank then check again.
Thanks a lot. Also... the directions didn't say to add grease to the Ring / Pinion... Every other car I have built says to do this .. So i went ahead and added the grease..Thats ok correct?
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Old 05-14-2013, 12:49 PM
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Golden. Always grease em.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:01 PM
  #4370  
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Thanks for the reply, that is what I thought. I found it weird it didn't mention it though. (even though it should be a no brainer)
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:07 PM
  #4371  
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=e4i-1U9OOf0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=O4QO4InOPi0
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:19 PM
  #4372  
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Originally Posted by Maxxed-out
Lean the bottom
That's what I should do when the engine was running rich, but that wasn't the case.
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Old 05-14-2013, 01:23 PM
  #4373  
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Originally Posted by masher81
I just started to build my MBX7. I have the front end mostly together. I notice that the front diff is very noisy. It also does not feel very smooth. I tried with a spacer and without but no change. Could I have done something wrong? Or is this just how Mugen is?
That is definitely not normal. I would take it apart and do it again. Remember, only use the 2 o-rings for the large gears. Don't use the small o-rings for the 4 small gears. Also, make sure the o-rings are seated properly.

Last edited by CanyonCarverR1; 05-14-2013 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 05-14-2013, 02:21 PM
  #4374  
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
That is definitely not normal. I would take it apart and do it again. Remember, only use the 2 shims for the large gears. Don't use the small shims for the 4 small gears. Also, make sure the o-rings are seated properly.
Before you do that loosen the 4 screws that hold together the diff case. It might be that you over tightened them
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:31 PM
  #4375  
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Are people using the short or long chassis brace for the front?
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by voodoopapa
Are people using the short or long chassis brace for the front?
Short brace
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:35 PM
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i run long brace
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Old 05-14-2013, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
That is definitely not normal. I would take it apart and do it again. Remember, only use the 2 shims for the large gears. Don't use the small shims for the 4 small gears. Also, make sure the o-rings are seated properly.
For my 6r and 6t I used the small shims and no orings for the spider gears. Is this still the same for the 7. Ordering a 7 soon and want to make sure I build the diffs right.
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:00 PM
  #4379  
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Default M2C RACING WING WASHERS FOR THE MBX7



M2C RACING is pleased to announce our new WING WASHERS for the MBX7
These are designed for the unique design of the 7 wing to allow you to run
centerline or and offset wing.
These washers are made with 6061 material and anodized black and bright coated to
add a little shine. This model also will accept a socket head cap screw
button head or a flat head screw
2 centerline
2 offset models are included in each pack.

http://www.m2cracing.com/searchquick...?keywords=5294

www.m2cracing.com
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:01 PM
  #4380  
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Originally Posted by mr240
For my 6r and 6t I used the small shims and no orings for the spider gears. Is this still the same for the 7. Ordering a 7 soon and want to make sure I build the diffs right.
Yes, that's what I meant to say...my bad
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